Went autocrossing yesterday, learned alot of stuff, need advise.

astronut1885 · Sep 12, 2004

Hey guys. I went for an autocross event yesterday, and I had a kickass time. I ran the 1.5 mile course at a 142.xxx second personal best time, down from a 198.xxx opening run. I found some things about my car I want to correct though. When I launched, it felt like I got some wheel hop, and I know control arms will take care of that. Which control arms are good for road courses and autocross? I also had an issue with my oil temps getting up to 205-210* on my gauge. I was told that 220 was the danger zone for dino oil. Since I'm seeing 4-5000 RPM at all times, and you can't really shift, I have no option but to heat it up. I want to get an oil cooler, to help keep those temps down and preserve my oil. I know Summit carries a few, but they're pricey. A friend has a cooler adapter block on his 2.3L motor, and he asked if I was interested in it. He has a spare one on an extra block. Will this adapter fit my block so I can piece together my own oil cooler kit? Also, my brakes were kinda iffy, but I think that's because I did the SN95 conversion all around and never upgraded my master cylinder. I'm going to get a 94 GT MC for now, but by next year I plan on Cobra brakes up front, and a bigger MC and booster to support them. The car felt like it hooked good, and my tires took a beating, but that's expected. Overall I had a blast, but just wanted to get some input on those three things, the control arms, oil cooler, and brakes. Thanks Guys!

SlowGT · Sep 12, 2004

Everybody has there own favorites when it comes to control arms. I'd say that any aftermarket arm is going to be better than stock. Bushing choice is going to be a matter of personal preference/driving style. I don't see subframe connectors on your list. SFCs and control arms will give your car a whole new feel. Let you stay on it longer in to the corners and get on it sooner coming out. I also don't see a driveshaft loop. I like a loop on any modified vehichle that gets called upon to perform beyond the normal wear & tear driving. JMO.

I'm a little confused about why you're opting for a 6spd. If you don't shift much on the track, I'd think a TKO II/Tremec 500/600 with the 5th gear delete would be a better performance enhancement. Less weight and less rotating weight in your driveline. Tremec claims they've tested the 600 upwards of 1300hp.

How does your water temp relate to your oil temp? You may consider an aftermarket aluminum radiator or a bigger fan. Or possibly a manual/adjustable controller on your existing fan would help bring your temps down. I don't know if the adaptor you're considering will work or not. Zirgo has some nice fans if you're interested. Thin profile & lightweight. I've got twin 12s for my 408. Only 2-1/4" thick. Best deals I've found on these are on eBay. Maybe an aftermarket radiator for an automatic transmission would help you out on both temp guages. Just route your motor oil through the AT ports on the radiator. May be less weight than a separate cooler.

Well these are just my thought on your post. I hope you find something useful in them.

As for the brakes...I've never fooled around with conversion setups or aftermarkets, so I have nothing useful to offer.

Good luck & congrats on the SC.

EDTI: Try asking over at EastCoastStang. I know there's a few guys over there that autocross regularly. They could probably offer some more useful info.

Asha'man · Sep 12, 2004

Definitely do the MC upgrade, your stocker really isn't big enough to push the fluid for the SN95 brakes. Not sure about the other stuff.

Ash

Ray III · Sep 12, 2004

Use synthetic oil.

Make damn sure you use GOOD brake pads that don't gas up under extreme heat. Slotted rotors are a good precautionary measure but don't buy high dollar rotors since they tend to get toasted in those conditions.

BlackFox5.0 · Sep 12, 2004

There is no need to go any bigger than a '94/95 MC even with Cobra brakes.

Unless your rear calipers are huge, like mine, which are 54mm. Very close to your stock FRONT 87-93 5.0 calipers . I have an SVO MC because of this.

The SVO uses 73mm calipers up front, and 54mm in the back. Should I have a SN95 MC, I fear that my pedal will be very low, and soft.

Go with the '94/95 MC.

As for control arms, I love my MM pieces. They are made for road racing, and have the spearical bearings on the axle, with greaseable urethene bushings in the front.

The oil cooler is totally optional. I should probably have one, since i have very high oil pressure (remember, pressure = heat) AND an oil fed supercharger. I'm in no rush to get one though.

astronut1885 · Sep 12, 2004

I have subframes, I have a MKVIII electric fan with a DCC controller, and I plan on getting a junkyard piece tranny cooler for a power steering cooler. My water temps stay at 190* at all times, and as soon as I roll off the course, it's 196 at best. Oil temps go alot higher, but I found a sweet variable kit that FRPP sells. I plan on getting that. I like the control arms Chris has, the MM ones with spherical bushings, and I know that'll help with open tracking and autocrossing. I need to get some race seats, because I was getting tossed all around in the stock GT seats. I want 4 pt harnesses too. Here's my whole setup, tell me where I should go from there for this type of racing:
Modifications:
Ford OEM: MAF Conversion, Short Shifted 5-spd, '97 Explorer Intake, Idle Adjuster Plate, SN95 5 lug/ disc brake conversion, 3G Alternator, Mk VIII Electric Fan, 19 lb injectors, Smog pump delete, 1986 GT Intake Plaque, Ford OEM Electric Red Paint, A9P EEC-IV.
Ford Racing:GT40 "P" Heads, E303 Camshaft, 1 5/8" Shorty "P" Headers, 1.72 Roller Rockers, Aluminum Driveshaft, Heavy Duty Clutch, 3.73 Rear Gears, Hood Pins, 1" Phenolic Intake Spacer, A/C Delete Kit, '03 "Bullit" Pedals, Chrome Valve Cover Breather.
MAC: Cold Air Intake, Pro-Chamber, Flowpath LX Catback, Underdrive Pullies.
BBK: Progressive Rate Springs, Subframes, Upper and Lower Control Arms.
KYB- GR-2 Shocks and Struts, Gas-A-Just quadshocks.
Walbro: 255 LPH Fuel Pump.
Crane Cams: Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Percy's: Aluminum Header Gaskets
MSD: 6AL, TFI Blaster Coil, 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires, Distributor cap, Rotor
Hurst: T Handle Shifter Knob
UPR: Extreme Firewall Adjuster, Billet A/C Knobs, Billet Door Switch Plates, Billet Shifter Bezel
Summit: Adjustable Brake Proportioning Valve, Aluminum Clutch Quadrant, Billet Oil Cap
Age Classic Design: Clear Corner Lights, "Street Heat" Cowl
Cervini's: Cobra Rear Bumper, Cobra R Hood, Saleen Wing, Stalker Front Bumper
RotorWorks: Slotted/ Cross Drilled Rotors.
AutoMeter: 5" Phantom Tachometer w/ Shift Light, Oil Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, Water Temp Gauge, A Pillar Pod, Fuel Pressure Gauge With Isolator, Voltmeter, SS Lines, Tach Pod
FatRodder: Flame Milled Chrome Tall Valve Covers
DCC: Electric Fan Controler 60 Amp
Russel: Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Kenwood: KDC-222 CD Player Head Unit
Pursuit: Custom Alarm System
Sylvania: Silverstar Headlight bulbs
Matt Bobitt: SN95-Fox 3 brake line adapter
ROH: 17"x8" Snyper Rims (White)
McGard: Chrome Lug Nuts and Lock Lugs
Sumitomo: 4TR 245/45/ZR17 Tires

I know some of that stuff has nothing to do with racing, but I had that list on my CarDomain page and I am being lazy.

Mavrick · Sep 12, 2004

I bought the MM non adjustables with the spherical/urethane bushings. They are nice pieces, and from all my research, they are the BEST (comparable to Global West, same arm just the bushings are reversed) all around control arm for road racing and drag racing. The spherical bushing is the biggy, especially with road racing. Side to side movement with hard urethane bushings will tear up your torque boxes, but with the spherical bushing, you prevent that because it allows for some movement side to side when cornering.

92BlackGT · Sep 13, 2004

Pro3i lower arms....same as MM, but a bit cheaper. A panhard bar would help too.

Mavrick · Sep 13, 2004

Comparable but i doubt identical. I read that someone had compared the two, brand new out of the box side by side and by the naked eye, they are very close but the MM's looked thicker/felt heavier.

I love mine and the welds on them are MINT. Can't wait to bolt em on.

Went autocrossing yesterday, learned alot of stuff, need advise.

astronut1885

SlowGT

Asha'man

Ray III

New Member

BlackFox5.0

astronut1885

Mavrick

92BlackGT

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Mavrick

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