Went with the NX nozzle system but have ?s

[Methodical]

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<!-- message --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Alright, I got the NX wet nozzle kit. I think I got a good deal. I paid $581 and got the purge valve free kit (NX15600), which sealed the deal for me. The prices for this system were similar whereiver I looked - between $575-$610 so that's why I think I got a deal. This guy is selling this and other kits and including a "FREE" purge kit - depending on which system you get. If anyone's interested let me know and I can provide the site name - don't know if it's ok to put it here. If it is let me know and I will put it here. But I do have questions about the system. I in the process of obtaining the FPSS, TPS switch, window switch and gauge.

1. When out cruising can I leave the nitrous bottle open just in case I need to spray or will it cause more trouble than it's worth and therefore require a bottle opener

2. On CarMedallions website there's a 3D Cobra grill emblem that is made to purge nitrous. Does anyone know of or have seen a car with this on it. I'm thinking of purchasing it. I know I know it's show but it's "unique"and different (Medallion claims to have sold about a dozen only). It includes a -4AN braided line but the purge tubes look a lot smaller. Would the larger braided line versus the normal tube be an issue for purging nitrous.

3. Does anyone know anyone that is selling the NX bottle warmer (automatic temp control one) and/or a bottle opener.

4. Are bottle opener's a universal part?

5. Does anyone know someone that is selling an electrical nitrous gauge? I'd like to see nitrous info upfront it possible.

6. Does anyone here have the mechanical gauge mounted inside the car? If so what precautions were taken to prevent a possible release of nitrous in the car.

7. Where can I find a fuel rail T or Y fitting that will allow me to hook both my electric fuel pressure gauge sending unit and the nitrous fuel line to the fuel rail test port?

Note: I will be checking the Classified but thought I'd ask also because sometimes you can get an inside scoop items for sale.

Thanks for any help
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[blksn955.o]

Just a word of advise on the FPSS, almost EVERY one I have worked with or anyone I know that has used one...has removed it due to failure of the FPSS.

1. You can leave it open but the bottle will "leak" as the line and noids dont like the constant pres. A bottle opener or just putting the bottle on the back seat floor area with easy access (not legal at the track like this...but good for those street fights) will work fine.

2. I have seen them but dont know anyone spec. with it. Kinda trick setups, on the line...the hardline will prob. be cheaper and does not need to hold any reall pres. as it is just a pathway since the noid holds the pres.

3. I have a N.O.S. brand warmer and it has a temp sender that gets mounted so its touching the bottle. When the bottle is at a pre-set temp it turns on or off. the NX kits IIRC have a pres. sender that turns off/on the warmer to keep a press. Both work well and are good, get a blanket to keep the heat in/on the bottle though. I have an old jacket for now. The opener...actually I am messing (will be more so when its warmer out) with an old t-case shift motor and window motor to see if I can get it to open the bottle valve screw.

4. There are 2 types of openers...
1. is a noid that after you turn the bottle valve open the noid holds the pres. back until it is opend up. These are cheaper but the noids wear out from the pres.
2. is a motor that actually turns what the knob turns under it to open the valve. These are quite abit more, last alot longer, and have a few diff. designs but the idea is the same.

5. no sorry

6. The guage I am planning to run, the type that norm. get mounted to the bottle and are little, is mech. The issue is more with the "if the line leaks" or the fittings start to leak alittle. If you dont leave the bottle open with the pres. on the line/noids there is not much risk of failure or damage. The guage if remote from the bottle should have a line tapped either at the bottle or at the noids to see pres. since the bottle should not be left on and the guage will only work when its on...wear is min.

7. I had to get an adaptor to go from the shrader valve to a T fitting (brass with npt ends) and I bought 2 AN fitting for the brad. lines one to the fuel guage and one to the fuel noid.

you can see it in this pic coming off the rail, the AN's are blue.

 

[Methodical]

Just a word of advise on the FPSS, almost EVERY one I have worked with or anyone I know that has used one...has removed it due to failure of the FPSS.

I was told this by one of the guys here on Corral who sells and installs Nitrous kits. Do you or did you ever have a FPSS.

1. You can leave it open but the bottle will "leak" as the line and noids dont like the constant pres. A bottle opener or just putting the bottle on the back seat floor area with easy access (not legal at the track like this...but good for those street fights) will work fine.

The car is not a daily driver. Mainly on weekends (mostly Sundays only). You think I will be ok 'til I get a bottle opener

2. I have seen them but dont know anyone spec. with it. Kinda trick setups, on the line...the hardline will prob. be cheaper and does not need to hold any reall pres. as it is just a pathway since the noid holds the pres.

I talked to the owner of Medallion and he explained how the emblem is made, which explains the cost. Do you think the -4AN line is too much for the purge.

3. I have a N.O.S. brand warmer and it has a temp sender that gets mounted so its touching the bottle. When the bottle is at a pre-set temp it turns on or off. the NX kits IIRC have a pres. sender that turns off/on the warmer to keep a press. Both work well and are good, get a blanket to keep the heat in/on the bottle though. I have an old jacket for now. The opener...actually I am messing (will be more so when its warmer out) with an old t-case shift motor and window motor to see if I can get it to open the bottle valve screw.

I just ordered the bottle warmer ($129) from Dynotunenitrous tonight along with the bottle jacket (only $25). It is pressure induced and adjustable from 550-1250 psi.

4. There are 2 types of openers...
1. is a noid that after you turn the bottle valve open the noid holds the pres. back until it is opend up. These are cheaper but the noids wear out from the pres.
2. is a motor that actually turns what the knob turns under it to open the valve. These are quite abit more, last alot longer, and have a few diff. designs but the idea is the same.

I have been looking at Dynotunenitrous opener - real nice and somewhat cheper than others

5. no sorry

6. The guage I am planning to run, the type that norm. get mounted to the bottle and are little, is mech. The issue is more with the "if the line leaks" or the fittings start to leak alittle. If you dont leave the bottle open with the pres. on the line/noids there is not much risk of failure or damage. The guage if remote from the bottle should have a line tapped either at the bottle or at the noids to see pres. since the bottle should not be left on and the guage will only work when its on...wear is min.

I plan to run the Phantom II (electrical) gauge on my A-pillar. I want everything in front of me.

7. I had to get an adaptor to go from the shrader valve to a T fitting (brass with npt ends) and I bought 2 AN fitting for the brad. lines one to the fuel guage and one to the fuel noid.

Did you get those brass fittings from Lowes, HD etc. What are the fittings size if you can reall. That is exactly what I want/need to do to avoid cutting into the fuel line. I have the electric fuel pressure gauge with the sending unit attached to the fuel test port. I thought the nitrous fuel line used the 4AN fittings? Wouldn't the 2AN line that affect the amount of fuel to the nitrous .

you can see it in this pic coming off the rail, the AN's are blue.

An unrelated ?. I was considering putting my MSD box where you have yours - I have the Cobra R hood - but it looks like the hood may interfer with it. What kind of the hood do you have - any problems with the MSD there.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[blksn955.o]

Never had a FPSS, I do have a window, master on, and micro switch (WOT at the t-body blade).

Oh yeah, the bottle opener is 100% convien. You dont HAVE to have one. Warmer is not a "have to have" also as it just keeps the bottle pres. up so you get more use from your n2o. when the pres. goes down your actually going to run alittle fatter (safer) due to less n2o getting pushed into the lines--->motor. Most n2o companys say opt. pres. is around 1,000psi fWIW.

-4 will be reall big for a purge and prob. why its alittle $$$, you only need to get the air out. Once you see the white mist of n2o your done and just wasting n2o beyond that. Most purge line (that I have seen) is about the dia. of a metal hanger, you could prob. make one REALLY easy with some soft metal tube or even flex plastic tube JB weld epoxy and a 25$ emblm. The biggie is the noid and that T setup...I would buy a reg. purg and make an emblm. setup. All you really need to do is drill a hole in the mouf.

I got the brass fittings from a perf. shop...they were helpfull in getting me the correct shrader to T adapter and all the AN fittings. Preaty sure they are 1/4 npt.

BTW that is 2 (number of fittings, forgot the s at the end of fitting...might have helped) AN not -2, the line is the same line everywere else that feeds the system -4. I like having that FP gauge line at the same place the n2o line is so if there is a pres. drop I will see it.

I have my stock hood and no issues with the MSD. The hood really wont/should not go to much lower than the weather strip. I had my old MSD digital6+ under the air filter...but the wires are MUCH cleaner with it on the firewall.

 

[Methodical]

Never had a FPSS, I do have a window, master on, and micro switch (WOT at the t-body blade).

Oh, I forgot to ask - what problems did the FPSS cause?

Oh yeah, the bottle opener is 100% convien. You dont HAVE to have one. Warmer is not a "have to have" also as it just keeps the bottle pres. up so you get more use from your n2o. when the pres. goes down your actually going to run alittle fatter (safer) due to less n2o getting pushed into the lines--->motor. Most n2o companys say opt. pres. is around 1,000psi fWIW.

-4 will be reall big for a purge and prob. why its alittle $$$, you only need to get the air out. Once you see the white mist of n2o your done and just wasting n2o beyond that. Most purge line (that I have seen) is about the dia. of a metal hanger, you could prob. make one REALLY easy with some soft metal tube or even flex plastic tube JB weld epoxy and a 25$ emblm. The biggie is the noid and that T setup...I would buy a reg. purg and make an emblm. setup. All you really need to do is drill a hole in the mouf.

Yeah, I've seen where someone cut a hole in the snake and put the purge there. Since they want $250, plus shipping (i.e that's my bottle opener) for the emblem I probably will do the same or just go with the one in the cowl. I though the line was pretty big thanks for clearing that up.

I got the brass fittings from a perf. shop...they were helpfull in getting me the correct shrader to T adapter and all the AN fittings. Preaty sure they are 1/4 npt.

BTW that is 2 (number of fittings, forgot the s at the end of fitting...might have helped) AN not -2, the line is the same line everywere else that feeds the system -4. I like having that FP gauge line at the same place the n2o line is so if there is a pres. drop I will see it.

I have my stock hood and no issues with the MSD. The hood really wont/should not go to much lower than the weather strip. I had my old MSD digital6+ under the air filter...but the wires are MUCH cleaner with it on the firewall.

I think I will try and put mine there. Right now it tucked down between the passenger side strut and firewall.

Again thanks.

 

[blksn955.o]

They just dont allow the system to arm. I would put it on if its new with the kit but if you have any issues with the system not "hitting" then I would un-hook it first if you know the connections are good.

I think they are a good thing...just they dont work to well. Both my buddies brand new FPSS was bad brand new with there N.O.S. kits. I pieced together my kit and didnt get one (got everything from a local guy I know cept. the bottle for 125-150$ and got a bottle for 100$). I know of 2 other guys who had issues with a TNT kits FPSS and at least one NX FPSS not working...or failing after not much time.

I think its one of those...after a few uses and if its working and has not shut off you know you have enough pres. for the shot your running.

BTW if I was going to get a kit...NX would be on the top of my list, they have agressive jet sizes and gen. see the jet size in rwhp instead of most others that use fwhp numbers. The shark nozzle is a good nozzle, I was wanting to run one but the 90$-ish v. the 30$ for the N.O.S. fogger was too much. Good choice in kit IMHO.