Went WOT for First Time Since New Engine

94GTLaserRC · Aug 8, 2009

Well after much procrastination, Ive finally gotten around to tuning with the TwEECer thanks to much help and patience from WES.

After I "thought" I had been WOT the last few data logs, WES so "politely" pointed out that a TPS voltage of 3 does not constitute WOT! Finally hit max, 4.75v in 4th gear for about 3 seconds. Car did not "feel" as good as I thought it would but WES had a fairly conservative tune on it (and working from there), and the engine is a low compression engine with a "baby" Vortech on it. I didnt get a chance to look at the boost, but I doubt it went much about 6 or 7 pounds.

Still have some adjustments to make, but I noticed a tiny pool of coolant on top of the water pump from the DREADED underside of the waterneck...Gotta replace that before continuing.

I may go with a smaller Vortech Pulley since Im running the stock size.

THANKS AGAIN TO WES for all the help!!

RC

True 5.0 · Aug 8, 2009

94GTLaserRC said:
Still have some adjustments to make, but I noticed a tiny pool of coolant on top of the water pump from the DREADED underside of the waterneck...Gotta replace that before continuing.
RC

FWIW-

Don't waste your money on the chrome jobs. They warp and leak like crazy. I fixed my mistake with a Billet Specialties aluminum unit which is awesome!!

94GTLaserRC · Aug 8, 2009

True 5.0 said:
FWIW-

Don't waste your money on the chrome jobs. They warp and leak like crazy. I fixed my mistake with a Billet Specialties aluminum unit which is awesome!!

does it have the outlet on the top for a sensor, and where did you get it? I was never happy with the chrome ones, but the stocker doesnt have the sensor opening.

Thanks
RC

94GTCoupe · Aug 8, 2009

hey RC.
sometimes the water neck will leak if the thermostat is not in the right position when it's installed.
what i do is put a VERY thin coat of RTV on the housing,a VERY,VERY thin coat on the thermostat,let it cure a little,then stick them togeather.
next,put the gasket on dry,and tighten it down.
no leaks yet since i put the mishimoto in months ago.

94GTLaserRC · Aug 8, 2009

I found the billet ones, but they do NOT have an opening on top to tap the autometer WT gauge into. I have a stocker here at home which tightens down better, but there is no opening on top in that one either....oh..decisions decisions
RC

revhead347 · Aug 9, 2009

I use the cast iron water outlets from the autoparts store. They are like $10, they have the bung for the sensor, and they never warp.

Kurt

94GTLaserRC · Aug 9, 2009

Has anyone ever seen a high-quality "show-looking" piece with the bung? (not the chrome one for $25). I may try the chrome one one more time and use BLACK RTV instead of of the red. I think if I use a thinner layer of RTV I can tighten it down a bit more.

RC

95Cobra302 · Aug 9, 2009

If your talking about the chrome one from ford racing, those will never stop leaking. I had the same problem and called the ford racing techs and they said they had to discontinue it because they couldn't stop them from leaking. Man that was such a nice piece though.

blksn955.o · Aug 9, 2009

Why not drill and tap the stock one or buy the billit one and drill and tap that one?

You could drill and tap the stock one, clean up the casting, and then send it for powdercoating.

94GTLaserRC · Aug 9, 2009

blksn955.o said:
Why not drill and tap the stock one or buy the billit one and drill and tap that one?

You could drill and tap the stock one, clean up the casting, and then send it for powdercoating.

I would have to look at the billet one to see if can be tapped (flat area as opposed to rounded). I have the front port tapped with the stocker...it's easily removable. I dont really "need" to have both, but I prefer it. I may get the billet one, see if can be tapped, and if not, just run the Autometer gauge and leave the stock one "dead" I dont want anymore leaks!!

RC

blksn955.o · Aug 9, 2009

The stock guage is useless anyway.

94GTLaserRC · Aug 9, 2009

blksn955.o said:
The stock guage is useless anyway.

I think what Im gonna do for now to save some money and not have to wait is just REDO the way it is now, but use less RTV and use the BLACK stuff instead of the red. If that doesnt work, then Ill go to the nice Billet one and remove the stock WT sending unit.

THANKS for the replies !!

RC

True 5.0 · Aug 10, 2009

94GTLaserRC said:
I would have to look at the billet one to see if can be tapped (flat area as opposed to rounded). I have the front port tapped with the stocker...it's easily removable. I dont really "need" to have both, but I prefer it. I may get the billet one, see if can be tapped, and if not, just run the Autometer gauge and leave the stock one "dead" I dont want anymore leaks!!

RC

I don't think you will be able to tap the Billet Specialties piece. The outlet rotates in the housing base and is sealed with an O-ring. the base is also sealed with an O-ring (although it is not circular when you're done inserting it to the sudo-figure 8 groove provided) to the intake manifold.

I can tell you that the RTV won't make any difference on the chrome outlets. I tried that as well as double gaskets and custom rubber ones. The flange just warps and you will have a leak. I wouldn't waste any time with another chrome one (mine was from FMS-BTW).

What intake manifold are you running? My old FMS Cobra clone lower had a coolant port in the rear D/S that got plugged in that installation. If available, you could use that one.

Road_Runna · Aug 10, 2009

I get that little pool of coolant as well, just raise the rubber hose up 1/2" put some RTV on the end, and push it down and tighten.

Usually I get that pool though when im messing with the alternator bolts 6 point sockets.

94GTLaserRC · Aug 10, 2009

True 5.0 said:
I don't think you will be able to tap the Billet Specialties piece. The outlet rotates in the housing base and is sealed with an O-ring. the base is also sealed with an O-ring (although it is not circular when you're done inserting it to the sudo-figure 8 groove provided) to the intake manifold.

I can tell you that the RTV won't make any difference on the chrome outlets. I tried that as well as double gaskets and custom rubber ones. The flange just warps and you will have a leak. I wouldn't waste any time with another chrome one (mine was from FMS-BTW).

What intake manifold are you running? My old FMS Cobra clone lower had a coolant port in the rear D/S that got plugged in that installation. If available, you could use that one.

I may go to the Billet and just delete the stock gauge. I think I have an extra port which would require me removing the hard lines and upper intake. I dont think Im THAT motivated just to keep the stock WT gauge. I may delete it now and if I ever remove the upper look for an alternative port at that point.

Road Runna: it's coming from under the water neck..not a hose.
RC

94GTLaserRC · Aug 22, 2009

Bought both the AL. and Billet neck and went to install today. Took everything off, cleaned everything, then noticed it was a cracked bypass hose under the clamp. TOO Late...everything already off. I used the Al waterneck as it was really light, and the sensor port on top, and matched the lower manifold finish just fine. Now I can get my money back for the Billet one. Had to make a trip to the store for the hose in the middle of everything.

Letting it dry overnight before I re-fill the radiator.
RC

Went WOT for First Time Since New Engine

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