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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

What a POS

  • Thread starter Thread starter SMOKEDYA
  • Start date Start date Apr 19, 2009
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SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
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79
Tucson AZ
Apr 23, 2009
#61
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #61
1991notchbackLX said:
custom cam swap + unemployment = ~$300 and doable

turbo kit/supercharger/tune/fuel upgrades + unemployment = sleeping in a cardboard box


your dished pistons are hurting your n/a performance, but the right cam will really wake your motor up and in the very least put a smile on your face until you get a steady job again and make the money needed to slap a turbo or s/c on there, myself, S&B and 85_SS_302 are all leading you in the right (most economical) direction for the time being (and given your circumstances), cam swap FTW
Click to expand...

right and this is the route i will take but i also wanna do a roller cam swap when i do the swap. the nitrious is free to use so that will be the best bang for the buck. The turbo will be next year i'm doing my own kit. Whats your guys suggestion for a roller cam for now for me? Then i got this dam cam i gotta do something with.Am i right? When you install a new roller cam and roller lifters you dont break them in like flat tappet?If i switch over to roller now when i swap the cam i need: cam lifters, valve springs, dizzy gear. Does anyone know the diffrence between the fel pro 1011-1's and the fel pro 1011-2's? peace









john
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Apr 23, 2009
#62
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #62
All i know is the retro fit rollers are limited in how aggressive they can be, but i don't know exactly how limited because i've never looked into it. This may or may not be a big deal...i'd look for AT LEAST .550 lift and 240-250 duration @.050 and a 109-110 lobe separation. If you can find a cam in that neighborhood i think you'll be kicking ass. I'm no cam guru but that's where things really start waking up as far as cams go and you have the heads and intake and cubes to really make the best of it. Hell i would recommend the cam i have if you could use a regular roller cam.
 

white 89 GT

Member
Apr 3, 2003
281
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17
Tacoma
Apr 23, 2009
#63
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #63
Well I can tell you what I would use as a temporary cam with your low compression.
I would go with .550 lift max and no more than 230-235 @.050 and it seems to me that if stay in the 112-114 separation you have a chance for some more power.
85 ss 302 the reason im saying 112-114 is it seems that all the cams that call for higher compression tend to be 110 separation and less.
If you look at some of the AFM cams you will see what I mean, lower comp 112, higher comp 108-110. I think some more lift will help regardless of compression.
I will add this, borrowed from another stangneter.
The tighter LSA of 110 degrees:

- Increases cylinder pressure, cranking pressure, dynamic pressure, which can increase octane requirements.
- Increases valve overlap.
- Narrows the power band, and put torque at a more midrange RPM.
- Increases speed of engine revving.
- Initially gives quicker throttle response.
- Reduces idle quality and creates less vacuum.
- Decreases piston to valve clearance.
- Reacts better for carbureted engines.*

The wider LSA of 114 degrees:

- Decreases cylinder pressure, cranking pressure, dynamic pressure, which will decrease octane requirements.
- Decreases valve overlap.
- Widens the power band, and put torque at a higher RPM being more peaky.
- Decreases speed of engine revving.
- Initially gives slower throttle response.
- Increases idle quality and create more vacuum.
- Increases piston to valve clearance.
- Reacts better for fuel injected engines.*
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Apr 23, 2009
#64
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #64
Yeah that all makes sense. Personally, the next time i have an excuse to take off my heads i'm gonna have them angle milled down to 58cc bowls (hell i migh even go lower if i have the piston to valve clearance to spare) and try to bump compression up as much as i can. I used to buy into that whole "this cam is too big" thing, and to an extent that's definitely true but with as rowdy as my cam is and my buddy's cam is and the fact that both of them are totally streetable and easy to drive really changes my perseption of what is too big and what is just right.
 

white 89 GT

Member
Apr 3, 2003
281
0
17
Tacoma
Apr 23, 2009
#65
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #65
Milling the heads to 58cc is one of the things I did this winter along with the cam from Ed. I ended up with .112 ptv clearance and thats with just over .600 lift and probe flat tops.
The car is still streetable (I drive it to the track 30 mi.) but its not a daily driver.
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Apr 23, 2009
#66
  • Apr 23, 2009
  • #66
white 89 GT said:
Well I can tell you what I would use as a temporary cam with your low compression.
I would go with .550 lift max and no more than 230-235 @.050 and it seems to me that if stay in the 112-114 separation you have a chance for some more power.
85 ss 302 the reason im saying 112-114 is it seems that all the cams that call for higher compression tend to be 110 separation and less.
If you look at some of the AFM cams you will see what I mean, lower comp 112, higher comp 108-110. I think some more lift will help regardless of compression.
I will add this, borrowed from another stangneter.
The tighter LSA of 110 degrees:

- Increases cylinder pressure, cranking pressure, dynamic pressure, which can increase octane requirements.
- Increases valve overlap.
- Narrows the power band, and put torque at a more midrange RPM.
- Increases speed of engine revving.
- Initially gives quicker throttle response.
- Reduces idle quality and creates less vacuum.
- Decreases piston to valve clearance.
- Reacts better for carbureted engines.*

The wider LSA of 114 degrees:

- Decreases cylinder pressure, cranking pressure, dynamic pressure, which will decrease octane requirements.
- Decreases valve overlap.
- Widens the power band, and put torque at a higher RPM being more peaky.
- Decreases speed of engine revving.
- Initially gives slower throttle response.
- Increases idle quality and create more vacuum.
- Increases piston to valve clearance.
- Reacts better for fuel injected engines.*
Click to expand...

So is this a cam that comp or some one sells off the shelf? Is this the smallest cam you suggest? Is this roller or flat tappet?Is the lobe seperation what makes a cam sound bad ass? If not what number makes it sound all bbbbbbbbbbbb. how about this cam Lunati 61004LK - Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits or this one?They are both close to waht you said. Lunati 61003LK - Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits peace



john
 

KamiKaziDK

Member
May 16, 2005
555
0
17
Mesa, Az
Apr 24, 2009
#67
  • Apr 24, 2009
  • #67
think about going up to the 61004lk lunati even, it'd be better for your setup I think
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Apr 24, 2009
#68
  • Apr 24, 2009
  • #68
Is that one a lot bigger or just a little bigger? This is the one i have now
summitracing.com peace









john
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Apr 24, 2009
#69
  • Apr 24, 2009
  • #69
Contacted lunati they said my push rods i have now should be ok,that i could make up the diffrence in the rocker adjustment going with the bigger cam over what i have now,sound correct? Also AFR says to go and do .030 shim under the springs to make up for the extra pressure for the bigger cam. Yeah? peace



john
 
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