What All Do i need to convert to R134

1986LX2002

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Aug 15, 2002
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Well i Live in Phx AZ and its hot as hell and my 86GT has AC but it doesnt work. The condensor has a hole in it and the compressor was tossing metal shavings everywhere when it was last used. So could I just get a newer setup from a newer mustang and slap it in there? I've gone around to some AC places in town and they dont even carry R12 anymore and said they could convert my car to R134 but for a nice price and i've heard the autozone kits kinda suck. So if anyone knows anything about AC lemme know i'm dying out here! :mad:
 
When the compressor dies and spreads metal shavings through out the system, all you can do is to flush it prior to installing a new compressor. The metal shavings will destroy the compressor in short order. Bypass flushing it, and the new compressor will quickly die a sad death, causing pain and anguish in your wallet.

See http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/R134a_conversion/R134a_conversion.htm

The one additional step not in the tech note is extracting the orifice assembly located in the high pressure input to the evaporator assembly. After disconnecting the line that comes from the condenser, you get to fish the orifice valve out of the evaporator inlet with a pair of needle nose pliers. Not having personally done that, I can't say if it is hard or easy to do. However it is necessary, since the orifice assembly has a screen to catch small particles that might otherwise clog the orifice and cause the pressure to reach the explosion point.
 
put some PAG oil into the system, (like 6 oz), put the adapter fittings on, evacuate and fill w/ 134. Ive done it on many cars and no problems whatsoever- some i did years ago and they are still working perfectly. You dont have to change any components.
 
jrichker said:
The one additional step not in the tech note is extracting the orifice assembly located in the high pressure input to the evaporator assembly. After disconnecting the line that comes from the condenser, you get to fish the orifice valve out of the evaporator inlet with a pair of needle nose pliers. Not having personally done that, I can't say if it is hard or easy to do. However it is necessary, since the orifice assembly has a screen to catch small particles that might otherwise clog the orifice and cause the pressure to reach the explosion point.

Just buy a new liquid line. It contains a new orifice.
 
Albrainya said:
put some PAG oil into the system, (like 6 oz), put the adapter fittings on, evacuate and fill w/ 134. Ive done it on many cars and no problems whatsoever- some i did years ago and they are still working perfectly. You dont have to change any components.

That's what my buddy did to my car, been fine for 4 years. He said he used different o-rings, but that may part of the adapter fittings....don't know my ac very well :p