What cam for my setup?

[astronut1885]

Hey guys. I am probably going to add a camshaft into the mix for my build up, so I want to know which to go with. I am looking for a lower end powerband, preferably from 2000-5500rpm, and around 300 RWHP. I don't want to go to 6k rpm, as I almost never see that kind of RPM on the street. The car is a daily driver, so streetability is a major concern, and I want the idle to be fairly smooth, with a minor lope to it. My setup will be:

Stock 302 block
GT40P heads w/ 1.54" exhaust valves (stock=1.46)
Explorer (GT40) upper and lower intake w/1" phenolic spacer
1.6 ratio roller rockers
65mm TB + spacer
24# injectors and MAF conversion calibrated for 24# inj.
255 LPH fuel pump
FRPP 1 5/8" shorty headers
MAC Pro Chamber
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
MAC cold air intake
MAC U/D pullies

I was leaning toward the E303 Ford Racing cam, and my mechanic reccomended the F303 cam. Others have said I could do better. Please give me some info on cams so I can look into my options. Thanks guys.

 

[maverick0716]

The F-cam will give you some nasty lope....definitly not a smoothe idle. E cam is more what you're going for. B-cam is a little lower rpm cam with an idle a bit more lopey than the e cam

 

[Jo_885o]

Pleae think about another cams before getting a ford racing one. there are so many other many cams out there for us 5.0's so dont settle on that outdated stuff. Think comp cam, trick flow, lunati, fti, crane, steeda, custom. Not just ford racing.

 

[5spd GT]

Yeah...go FTI...cost a little over a hundred more but you get what you pay for.... more performance and better daily driveability...

David

 

[redterror302]

I would check out Comp Cams Xtreme Energy line. I am going to have a very similar setup (check out sig). For what you want, I would say go with the xe264hr or the xe270hr. I am going with the XE270HR myself(112 lsa). Give the tech line a call and see what they say. They recommended me the 270, so that is what I am going with. Tell them your setup, what you are looking for, and they will help you out. Or of course you could get a custom grind, which is probably the best choice.

Chris

p.s. Check out the specs on them here: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Catalogs/106-03/HTML/76-81.html

 

[Nottoofast50]

I'm doing almost the exact same combo and going with the tfs stage 1 cam....

 

[astronut1885]

I am trying to keep the cost down, preferably no more than 180.00 or so. Keep it going, good info so far. Why are the FRPP cams considered outdated? If they work, what's the problem?

 

[redterror302]

If you want to keep the price down, just look for a used one. I found a guy with the xe270hr with 19k on it. He is selling it to me for 100 bucks. Can't go wrong with that. They consider the cams outdated because they are single patterns, and have been around for a while. They do work, BUT there are better alternatives to them. You do NOT want to get the wrong cam. That is probably the most critical component to buy. Just because you are on a limited budget does not mean you should just go with whatever. If you can find a better cam used, I would go for it. If you can't then I would lookat something like the tfs stage 1.

Chris

Where is Michael Yount when you need him?!?!

 

[astronut1885]

I found this one from Crane, it's in their energizer series. Here's the stats:
Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 278 intake/278 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in.: 222 intake/222 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .498 in. intake/.498 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 110 degrees
* RPM range: 2,400 to 5,400
* Good to fair idle, daily usage, good mid-range torque and HP, mild bracket racing
* 2,700-3,200 cruise rpm
* 9.5:1 to 10.75:1 compression ratio recommended
Ford: 260-302, 278/278 advertised duration, hydraulic, cam and lifter kit
This Crane Energizer cam and lifter kit provides good mid-range torque and horsepower and better throttle response at a price anyone can afford. It's computer-developed for non-emissions controlled vehicles with tighter lobe separations and single patterns for a fair idle quality. It includes a camshaft, lifters, and assembly lube.

Best of all it's 99.95 from Summit

 

[Jo_885o]

True they do work. But its so many cams that work better than those cams. I myself am building a 306 TFS h/c/i . the cam only costs 139.00 and is made to work with those heads. it all depends on what rpm range u want or is going to be a street car or weekend warrior? I have no experience with those cams b/c i dont really want the same lift and duration on exhaust and intake.

 

[astronut1885]

Is this the one you mean by Trick Flow?
Ford: 1985-95 302/351W, 275 intake/279 exhaust duration, hydraulic roller, EFI, camshaft

Specifically designed to match the power characteristics of Trick Flow's Twisted Wedge series heads, this Track Heat cam is for 5.0L and 5.8L Fords. It offers state-of-the-art power at an affordable price. Starting as a premium blank core, the cam is checked for the proper hardness, then precision-ground to exacting tolerances. Instead of creating a steep, narrow powerband that falls off very quickly, the cam's powerband achieves maximum area under the curves of the Twisted Wedge heads. You won't find a better cam for these heads.
Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 275 intake/279 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. lift: 221 intake/225 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 112 degrees
* RPM range: 2,000 to 5,500

 

[86Cobra]

Why are the FRPP cams considered outdated? If they work, what's the problem?

Of course they "work." The motor runs so they work. The point is that there's a huge list of other companies that can sell you a much better cam that will make more power and be easier to live with in a daily driver.

Most of the Ford cams were designed in the 80s. Modern lobe profiles are much better. Heck, I think the B cam was designed in the 1800s by Henry Ford himself.

The camshaft is the single most important part in the balance between power and driveability. Don't go cheap on the cam.

 

[maverick0716]

I found this one from Crane, it's in their energizer series. Here's the stats:
Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 278 intake/278 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in.: 222 intake/222 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .498 in. intake/.498 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 110 degrees
* RPM range: 2,400 to 5,400
* Good to fair idle, daily usage, good mid-range torque and HP, mild bracket racing
* 2,700-3,200 cruise rpm
* 9.5:1 to 10.75:1 compression ratio recommended
Ford: 260-302, 278/278 advertised duration, hydraulic, cam and lifter kit
This Crane Energizer cam and lifter kit provides good mid-range torque and horsepower and better throttle response at a price anyone can afford. It's computer-developed for non-emissions controlled vehicles with tighter lobe separations and single patterns for a fair idle quality. It includes a camshaft, lifters, and assembly lube.

Best of all it's 99.95 from Summit

Thats the exact same stats of the E-cam except the e-cam has more duration (282)

 

[astronut1885]

Does it have to say hydraulic roller cam? I've seen mechanical, hydraulic, hydraulic lifter, and hydraulic roller when looking. Which one is for our motor? I don't really know much about cams.

Mav, the one bonus is that the Crane cam I posted is 1/2 the price of the E cam.
How much lift can the springs on a new set of GT40P heads support?

 

[Jo_885o]

Hydraulic rollor is what type of block u have. That means u have a rollor cam inside. u need rollor lifters when using a rollor block and rollor cam.

 

[astronut1885]

Ok. So a cam that simply says "hydraulic lifter" or "hydraulic" is out? The one I showed from Comp only said hydraulic. I plan on reusing my stock lifters, my mechanic said they'd be fine. I just want to know what cams to consider. Thanks for the help.

 

[astronut1885]

I found the Trick Flow stage 1 cam. Read the specs, and it looks good. I am probably going to go with that, especially since it is 50.00 cheaper that a FRPP cam. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Black Sun 5.0]

Take a look at the Steeda cams, I hear they're a good quality cam. The #18 is probably what you'd be looking at.

 

[astronut1885]

too much money for the Steeda's. The TF cam I am looking to buy is 130.00 from summit, and has a profile that fits what I am looking to have.

 

[Jo_885o]

No, if it says hydraulic rollor ur good. First find out is it for a 5.0. if so find out if it is a hydraulic rollor if so u can use. " I plan on reusing my stock lifters, my mechanic said they'd be fine. I just want to know what cams to consider. Thanks for the help" The lifters thats in your car now are hydraulic lifters. thats what they mean