What did I do wrong in adjusting my rockers?

[TheBocSez]

I just put the heads on my new engine and installed the lifter and rockers. I am using E7 Powerheads with the Crane Cams stud conversion kit installed. I installed new FRPP stock length pushrods and Crane Energizer Roller rockers.

I adjusted the rockers using the method outlined here:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=542361&highlight=adjusting+roller+rockers

Starting at #1 when the exhaust 1st started to open, I adjusted the intake by twirling the pushrod until resistance was felt the I adjusted the lock nut between 1/2 and 3/4 turn and secured it with the poly lock.

I then rotated the engine until the intake valve on the same cylinder was almost fully closed and I adjusted the exhaust using the same method and number of turns.

I repeated this process on the remaining cylinders in the firing order until all 8 were done.

The reason I think something has to be wrong is that I see a lot of post asking how to adjust roller rockers and it didnt seem like that big of a task. Actually went pretty quick.

There is some light side to side movement on the rockers when they both closed but I assume that will tighen up when the lifters are pumped up.

So, what did I do wrong or is it just one of those things that is made out to be harder than it is??

while I have you here, when I installed my head gaskets, As long as I put the word front to the front, there should be no issues correct? I used the Felpro 1011-1 (think thats the #)

 

[Black1987Stang]

I think u confused me, u dont have any problems right? u just were surprised how easy it was? yea it is easy but it certainly does suck having to bend over the fenderwell, especially in the cold etc.

But yea as long as the hgs has FRONT in the front its good to go. If u didnt youll prob have an overheating problem, first time i did my headgaskets i put the Front in the rear on the passenger side head, cuz i figured the words and design should be on top on both sides not half and half, it was all ready to crank and i found out i had to tear it down and redo it.

 

[TheBocSez]

Yeah I was being a little sarchastic. I had just seen it posted so many times where people were asking how to do it, that I guess I had it in my mind that it was some major undertaking. Once I did it, I was suprised at how easy it went. Now to be honest, I did have the advantage of having the engine on a stand so I didnt have to contend with leaning over the car or any of that stuff. Everything was right there.

 

[Black1987Stang]

Yeah I was being a little sarchastic. I had just seen it posted so many times where people were asking how to do it, that I guess I had it in my mind that it was some major undertaking. Once I did it, I was suprised at how easy it went. Now to be honest, I did have the advantage of having the engine on a stand so I didnt have to contend with leaning over the car or any of that stuff. Everything was right there.

Yea i gotcha, and the stand wayyy easier than being in a car.

 

[SamSnyder]

Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong but if you did: when they're too tight the car will run rough because the valves aren't closing fully, which will feel like you've got a good sized miss; and if they're too loose you'll hear a lot of clatter from the valve train because you have excess lash.

 

[stang8urimport]

I believe the 5.0 Mustangs take the 1011-2 Felpro Headgaskets, but don't quote me.......

 

[TheBocSez]

I believe the 5.0 Mustangs take the 1011-2 Felpro Headgaskets, but don't quote me.......

I think it will use either but the difference is what material the metal around the cylinder is. I think one is steel and the other is copper or something like that. But like you said, im not 100% either.

 

[rd]

Sounds like you did it right and it worked.

I go cylinder at at time, an adjust at tdc on the firing stroke. My 79 Ford shop manual had the procedure where you only have to index the cam 3 times and you can get all 16 valves on the base circle to adjust. I did that once and had a miserable running vacuum leaking motor.

Went back and re did it cylinder at a time and it was fine.

Couple years later I saw the same 3 position diagram in a book, and compared it to the Ford Shop Manual. The Ford manual had the d@^* diagram printed mirror image, totally wrong!

Gotta love this stuff.....

 

[vikingpower]

Sounds like you did it right and it worked.

I go cylinder at at time, an adjust at tdc on the firing stroke. My 79 Ford shop manual had the procedure where you only have to index the cam 3 times and you can get all 16 valves on the base circle to adjust. I did that once and had a miserable running vacuum leaking motor.

Went back and re did it cylinder at a time and it was fine.

Couple years later I saw the same 3 position diagram in a book, and compared it to the Ford Shop Manual. The Ford manual had the d@^* diagram printed mirror image, totally wrong!

Gotta love this stuff.....

I did mine a cylinder at a time as well, zero errors!

 

[Raginstang]

the 1011-2 has a copper ring around the cylinders so that it wont damage the bottome of ALumminum Cylinder heads when you torque them down.. use those ones if you have alluminum heads..