what do I need to hit 11.99?

jerry S

New Member
Sep 3, 2003
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52.22N 5.12E
I have 300 rwhp and 400 ft lbs of torque at the rear wheels in a 351W that weighs 3180 lbs. I just got a new Edge Racing torque converter that stalls between 2800-3000, which is pretty close to my peak torque. As is, it is a 12 second something car. How much nitrous do I have to add to get to 11.99?
 
First off, how do you know the numbers on your car? Did it really crank out an even 300 hp/400ft lbs? If it did, and you spent the dyno time getting your jetting and timing right, and you're sure that what you have is spot on, fine, but if you're using desktop dyno or some other power "estimater" then you need to stop using that start doing some testing. You don't really need a dyno, you can get fairly close by using any one of the accelerometers that are available. I've used a G-Tech Pro with very good results, it really helps fine tune both your car and your driving. You didn't mention what gear ratio and what tire you're running, nor did you mention what you have already run in the 1/4. You say your car is a 12-something, is that 12.99 or 12.01? There's a huge stretch of time in between the two, and thousands of dollars so just how close are you now?
 
302: I don't know the 1/8 times. This will be my first time racing it. As for the times it posted before I got it, the shop that built my engine told me they ran it before shipping to me and it posted "high 12s" which I take to mean 12.7 - 12.99. If I break 11.99, I have to get a roll bar so if I add the NOS and it is pretty certain that I go sub 12, I need to order the bar now as transatlantic shipping takes time.

Zookeeper: Ok, I confess, you caught me in a little lie. I really only have 299.7 peak rwhp and 396 ft lbs of torque and not an even 300/400 like I said.

Allcarfan: Regarding the gears, I am at 3.25 in the rear. My tranny is 1st=2.46, 2nd=1.53, and 3rd=1:1

The issue is the NOS. I am getting it soon and have decided on a 125 shot to be conservative. If I break 12, I need a roll bar and I want to plan for that in advance rather than sit out the whole season waiting for a bar to get here and then finding somebody to weld it in.


<img src="http://forums.mightymustangs.net/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=7611"width="800" height="900">
 
Im a tad confused...do you or dont you want to break into the 11s?

If you swap to a 3.90 gear and some slicks...you would be there.

I would think that if you add anywhere between a 100 and 125 shot, you would be in the 11s pretty easily, provided you can get traction.
 
allcarfan said:
Im a tad confused...do you or dont you want to break into the 11s?

If you swap to a 3.90 gear and some slicks...you would be there.

I would think that if you add anywhere between a 100 and 125 shot, you would be in the 11s pretty easily, provided you can get traction.

I wouldn't be unhappy to get into the 11s. The thing is this. the first race of the year is April 30. I am installing the NOS well before that. I can choose the amount from 100-150. I currently have no roll bar. If I run 11.99 on April 30, I cannot race again until I get a bar installed. Given shipping time and install lead times, that means not unil the end of the race season here so I am trying to anticipate where I might be with the juice so I can plan ahead and enjoy the full season.
 
You need to make some actual passes down the strip and see where you are first.

Then you can make the necessary changes/improvements to get your ET’s lower.

Times on paper do not always translate to REAL ET’s

Like Allcar said - Slicks and Gears will definitely help lower your ET’s
 
If its anywhere in the 12s even low 13s if you can hook with the nos you will be in the 11s. If you trust the engine builders and you have the same setup on your car as they had on the one that went high 12s then I would order your roll cage. Like my sig says I should be in the 12s this year with some tweeking and cal tracs then I'll hit the juice and hopefully see 11s providing I can hook it.

Also if it takes so long for you to get parts and you can get the bar and don't have a problem with cutting you car to put it in then why not? Its only going to stiffin your car and make you safer anyway.
 
What you have its good enough for 11.9's right now. I went 12.1's with a little less than that. But dynos are funny. I only dynoed like 275 to the ground. i think the ET would have dropped a little more if I wouldn't have moved. Everytime I took it to the track it got faster. You will need traction, and set the car up right to get there though.
 
5.0ina66: Good to know. I very much doubt I will ever be mid 11s so I guess I will be safe for this season.

Steel1212: I will add a roll bar only if I have to and my preference is kinda against it for the moment. I don't want the added weight as I already have subframe connectors and jacking rails and these weigh as much, if not more, than the roll bar would. I don't think I will really benefit from the added frame stiffness and that the extra weight would ony hurt me.

10secgoal: Don't you have a 67/68 that you run with no hood? I think that your car is a few hundred pounds lighter than mine and that this is why you are so "DEEP!" (yelled like Van Earl Wright) in the 12's.
 
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
Like I said earlier, you are into the 11's with some gears and slicks. Just need to practice launching driving, that much power should easily propel yo uinto the 11's.


Wow! I really hope you are right. Thanks for the optimistic assessment. I will report back in April. The thing about this track is that it is unprepped. I just found this out last night. It is a landing strip at a small regional airport and apparantly prepping the track could do damage to the tires of the planes as they land so everyone says to expect at least 1/2 second less there than what you would see on a prepped track.
 
jerry S said:
10secgoal: Don't you have a 67/68 that you run with no hood? I think that your car is a few hundred pounds lighter than mine and that this is why you are so "DEEP!" (yelled like Van Earl Wright) in the 12's.
It's got no hood right now because the intercooler clamp hits it. I used to use one. (I just need to get off my dead ass) I also probably wieght a little more than you do to.:D But I doubt it is realistically a full 200 lb difference between the cars.
Just tell them to prep one end. That's all that really matter. If the plane is there when landing or taking off, the tires are going to be the last things they are worrying about. Besides, if they prep and get some rubber built up, there is less chance of the cars destroying the concrete.(welcome to my world of crap for track prep:p )
 
thehueypilot said:
Your 69 only weighs 3100 lbs? Wow, you must have gutted it to reduce it that much. Mine weighs 3,575 with a full tank and me in it and I only make up 175 lbs of that total.

that's what they tell me.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=597124&highlight=weight+1969+mach

My car is mirrors the build of 1969Mach1351's car and I based my weight estimate on his.

If your car weighs almost 3600 lbs, are you sure you aren't lugging around a box of rocks in your trunk (or two)?