WHAT DO THESE CODES MEAN???
- Thread starter ritter5.0
- Start date
I wouldn't be worried too much about the 332, it's probably just your EGR valve sticking with carbon buildup.
The 176 is more of a concern because it says you're running lean. It could be caused by a few things I can think of off the top of my head. It could simply be bad/old O2 sensors. Your fuel pressure may be too low, so you could be leaning out, so checking it wouldn't be a bad idea. With the vacuum line disconnected, you should see around 39 PSI. It could also just need the MAF cleaned. When the elements in the MAF get dirty, it doesn't sense as well and could be allowing more air in than it thinks it is. You could also have a vacuum leak somewhere that's allowing unmetered air in.
The 176 is more of a concern because it says you're running lean. It could be caused by a few things I can think of off the top of my head. It could simply be bad/old O2 sensors. Your fuel pressure may be too low, so you could be leaning out, so checking it wouldn't be a bad idea. With the vacuum line disconnected, you should see around 39 PSI. It could also just need the MAF cleaned. When the elements in the MAF get dirty, it doesn't sense as well and could be allowing more air in than it thinks it is. You could also have a vacuum leak somewhere that's allowing unmetered air in.
Try the cheap or free stuff first. Cleaning the MAF is free with some q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Checking vacuum leaks, look for any obvious broken vac lines, whistling sounds, etc that would indicate a vacuum leak. Fuel pressure, you'll need a gauge to check it, and the O2's are pretty self explanatory. Just remember to disconnect the battery if you change them, so it resets the computer, and it has to relearn all of the sensors.
Rear main seal is easy to replace... if you have the transmission out already. If it's not leaking too bad, and you don't mind an occasional drip in the driveway, I'd wait on changing it. If you have a manual trans and it's not a bad leak, wait until you need to do a clutch, unless it gets too bad. You have to pull the trans, bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel to get to it, so it's a huge PITA over an $8 part. If you're running an auto, it's still a pain, but you won't be doing a clutch, so it's just when you decide to do it.
ya my car is an auto its had a little oil leak since i got it 5months ago i did not no where the leak was coming from ive already replaced all the gaskets on the manifold and valve covers and i found out today where the leak was i had plans on putting a new torque converter in it looks like i will be putting one in a lot sooner haha do you have any suggestions on whitch one to get i plan on putting 355s or 410 in the rear if that matters any
A vac leak in the line to the EGR valve can cause 332. Ensure you have manifold vac reaching the solenoid. Then ensure when the solenoid is open that vac reaches the EGR valve itself.
Check the wiring if the solenoid doesnt energize.
As a quick test of the EGR valve itself, with the car idling, if you apply 5" or so of vacuum to the nipple on the EGR, the car should stumble real bad or stall.
Good luck.
Check the wiring if the solenoid doesnt energize.
As a quick test of the EGR valve itself, with the car idling, if you apply 5" or so of vacuum to the nipple on the EGR, the car should stumble real bad or stall.
Good luck.
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