What do you think of these mods?

[midnightdriver]

I have done some research and these are the mods i am considering for my 2000 Gt 5 speed.

CAI- most likely araid intake or JTL ram air

70mm throttle body

Boral stinger Cat-back

Aluminum flywheel

Aluminum driveshaft

3.73 gears, not 4.10's I don't like them, too low for me.

My goal is not to make tons of power, just want to stand out of the crowd a little and have the car still be extremely user/daily driver friendly.

 

[Big Show 96]

Looks good maybe consider the 75 tb.

 

[midnightdriver]

I thought that 75mm throttlebodies were for people who were going the FI route? I wish I could go that route in the future but don't want to spend the money.

 

[westgastang5.0Coyote]

How about some steeda udp?

 

[deftsound]

I thought that 75mm throttlebodies were for people who were going the FI route? I wish I could go that route in the future but don't want to spend the money.

They are. Stick with the 70mm you will make better power if you are sticking to N/A.

3 things:
1) Ditch the expensive airaid or JLT intake and go with the cheap CAI off american muscle or ebay. With CAI's, the power gain is so minimal there is no reason to spend big bucks on one, you will get the same power with a cheapie.
2) Ditch the aluminum flywheel and driveshaft. Here again, you are spending big bucks for very Very minimal gains especially on a nearly stock car.
3) Take all the money you have saved and spend it on a nice aftermarket exhaust. Longtube headers, a midpipe and some weld in mufflers.

Also i would recommend an SCT or equivalent tuner if your looking for a good bang for your buck mod.

 

['03GTinFLA]

I agree with what was said above. I took the bolt on N/A route as far as I could before I saw the light and found a used KB. Now there is no way I would tell anybody to do anything other than save up and get a blower.
But from my N/A experience I would say cheaper but cool looking CAI, as per above doesn't do a lot, TB/Plenum, Full exhaust ( the LT's made the biggest change on mine ), hand held tuner and then UDP's. By the time you buy all that, without installation prices included, your halfway to forced induction. Look in the classifieds around here and other sites. They pop up now and again but go fast if it's a good deal. It will not affect you daily driving abilities at all. I've had my blower for almost 5 years now and this is my one and only car with plenty of miles on it. Plus you won't get blown away by the 2011 V6's.

 

[sonic_03gt]

I would have to agree on everything said above accept unless your really wanting to stay budget friendly I would go with jlt full kit the ram air is crap in my opinion. The ful one puts the mass air and filter ikn the fenderwell with almost no bends which affect the ability to read your maf like my bbk! lol if your wanting to stay cheap i think brothers performance or Am has a cai for like 65 bucks just put a good 7 inch k and n on it and call it a day. If your wanting to get power from a catback very few make much more then 2 or 3 more I know a slp LM1 magnapack catback and borla s-type all add 10 plus ive seen others not add jack. A plenum and a 75MM TB is the way to go ive seen lots of dyno comparisons on stock cares showing gains of 2or 3 more hp from the extra 5mm. Wouldnt think more air could hurt your engine in anyway in that form anyway. I know my xpipe,catback,and slp lt''s installed together with a custom 93 octane tune offered a huge sotp difference. But like he said above wish I would have saved money and just blown it. I would have heller more power for actually less then I paid for ALL of my boltons if I bought used. But then again make a solid NA car then blow it then you have something special **** some boosted hondas

 

[sonic_03gt]

O the gears plus a shifter one of the best things since bread in butter. Pretty much transforms the way your car drives in my opinion

 

[midnightdriver]

I thought about a blower but I only want a Kenne Bell, well who doesn't, and don't really feel like dropping 5,000 all at once.

I have looked at tuners but I am a little leery of them. I in vision my motor in bits and pieces after i install a tuner. I looked into SCT and superchips, but again I am unsure. My only experiance with a tuner has been with diesels, and I am currently working on a blownup 7.3 powerstroke, used to make 550rwhp, and don't want to kill the car too.

I live in Cali so any x pipes or long-tube headers are out, I thought the aluminum flywheel and driveshaft would be a good investment do to making the car more efficient at putting power to the ground, which is kinda the first step, right? As well as the 3.73's, compared to the stock 3.27's.

I plan on doing a step by step build up, kinda like sonic 03gt suspects. First aluminum driveshaft and flywheel. Later a cat-back with a bigger TB and CAI and intake manifold. Followed by a tuner if I get up the courage. Then when I get money saved up, a stroker kit, kenne bell 2.1 + tuning by my local dyno shop.

 

[midnightdriver]

Oh and I looked into UDP's but how do they affect daily driving. The steeda ones say they run all the acess 25% slower. What will this do to my steering, braking etc? Will I notice?

 

[trombonedemon]

Best mod, driver mod and maybe a short throw shifter to accent the driver mod!

 

['03GTinFLA]

midnight..
My 1.7 KB was 3K used and found one local so no shipping. I've had it for years on a safe tune with no damage to the motor and I drive it like I stole it. Otherwise whats the point in having a blown stang right?
And UDP's didn't affect anything steering or braking. Just made it feel like it rev'd quicker. But most N/A mods made the car feel that way. I also suggest full length sub frame connectors. The make a difference. Also shifter and gears was a big difference in driving fun.

 

[Icemanstang]

Definitley do a nice exhaust set up.The Borla Stinger mufflers
sound amazing to me!
If you do end up getting underdrive pulleys just make sure
you get a underdrive pulley set that is non-piggyback like
the Steeda underdrive pulleys they worked great on my
mustang.

 

[deftsound]

I thought about a blower but I only want a Kenne Bell, well who doesn't, and don't really feel like dropping 5,000 all at once.

I have looked at tuners but I am a little leery of them. I in vision my motor in bits and pieces after i install a tuner. I looked into SCT and superchips, but again I am unsure. My only experiance with a tuner has been with diesels, and I am currently working on a blownup 7.3 powerstroke, used to make 550rwhp, and don't want to kill the car too.

I live in Cali so any x pipes or long-tube headers are out, I thought the aluminum flywheel and driveshaft would be a good investment do to making the car more efficient at putting power to the ground, which is kinda the first step, right? As well as the 3.73's, compared to the stock 3.27's.

I plan on doing a step by step build up, kinda like sonic 03gt suspects. First aluminum driveshaft and flywheel. Later a cat-back with a bigger TB and CAI and intake manifold. Followed by a tuner if I get up the courage. Then when I get money saved up, a stroker kit, kenne bell 2.1 + tuning by my local dyno shop.

If you're confused about which tuner to get just go with SCT, you can't go wrong, plus most tuners use SCT software so if you ever get a custom dyno tune you've already got the unit to tune it. 3.73 gears are a great way to go, i would highly recommend them, I have them and love them.

The thign with the aluminum driveshaft and flywheel is your spending upwards of 500$ for something you will barely feel. Plus, changing out the flywheel is no easy bolt-on task. You should wait to do that until you put a new clutch in so you can knock out two birds with one stone. Personally I run a Spec steel flywheel because I like the fact that it is stronger, call it insurance if you will.

Instead of the flywheel and driveshaft you should do a short throw shifter (personally i recommend the cheap one off american muscle, ive used it and loved it(almost more than my MGW!)) and the gears.

Oh one more thing, intake manifolds are a waste of money until you get a blower. Unless your happy spending 500$ for all of maybe a 5 rwhp gain....The aftermarket manifolds make power waaay up high like above 5500rpm so if you don't have the ability to rev that high (ie: aftermarket cams/springs blah blah) then you're really wasting your money, plus you will lose low end torque.

 

[midnightdriver]

Thanks for all of the advice guys. You steered me away from the flywheel and driveshaft to save me money and, my wallet thanks you. I will continue to look for a blower but in the meantime I will save my money and just get a tuner, UDP's, exhaust and such. However, can I run the tuner with my stock air intake and exhaust? Can throw in a K & N filter in for cheap and call it good intake wise, along with a 75mm TB?

Oh the reason why asked about the superchips tuner for the mustang is a friend has one I can borrow for awhile to test kinda what a tuner will do. The tuner is for a 99 though and mine is a 2000, I don't think there is a difference but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Thanks

Oh and about working on the vehicle, I know its hard but sorry guys. I kinda have access to a full shop and lifts. Sorry for those who have to craw on their backs.

 

[midnightdriver]

Deftsound, i know this is kinda a silly question but where is the rev limiter in my car. I was messing around yesterday and in 2nd gear, I revved all the way to 6,000rpm which is a little it the red as you know, I didn't mean to go that high but had to beat the wrx and quickly shifted, but I didn't hit the limiter like i have before in other vehicles.

 

[peepeeskillz]

Deftsound, i know this is kinda a silly question but where is the rev limiter in my car. I was messing around yesterday and in 2nd gear, I revved all the way to 6,000rpm which is a little it the red as you know, I didn't mean to go that high but had to beat the wrx and quickly shifted, but I didn't hit the limiter like i have before in other vehicles.

if u dont have a tune ur rev limiter should be set at 5750

 

[sonic_03gt]

Im almost sure its 6100 6200 stock I bumped mine up to 6400 just bc thats where they say the stock springs can handle. (no need to rev that high) but just bc. And I would deffinately go with the sct their is no other way to go. I got the predator for mine bc I had good luck with it and my lsx cars. But my version is very limited on what you can do. A sct is pretty much limitless with a wideband. And I think the k and n is a good way to go or just get the cheapy from upr,am,brothers,MU etc. A few of them are only like 50-65 dollars. And then later on put a k and n on it and they look alot better. You cant do a catted X in cali? If so that really blows its one of the best first mods. I would get the rpm outlet version of the cnl plenum/75mmtb. Its 200 plus shipping and I think the cnl is one of the best plenums on the market. (rpmoutlet.com) And I would deffinately consider the pieced together blower kit (used head unit etc.) If you get a good deal on a head unit 600etc. and piece together the rest off superchargersonline.com like mentioned above. With fuel mods and everything your looking at well under 2gs. And if you already have full boltons (which you can keep all of them goin this way) you will have a car with awesome power in the top end. And excellent daily drivability with still good economy. In my eyes the perfect dd

 

[deftsound]

Deftsound, i know this is kinda a silly question but where is the rev limiter in my car. I was messing around yesterday and in 2nd gear, I revved all the way to 6,000rpm which is a little it the red as you know, I didn't mean to go that high but had to beat the wrx and quickly shifted, but I didn't hit the limiter like i have before in other vehicles.

It should be around 6200 i believe, but the stock tachometer's are notoriously inaccurate so even if your tachometer says your reving to 6200 it may be only at like 6100 or so. When i got my aftermarket tach, my stock tach said i was at 6000 and my aftermarket said i was at like 6200...still there is no reason to rev it that high on a stock motor, you're really not making power above 6000...

 

[deftsound]

Thanks for all of the advice guys. You steered me away from the flywheel and driveshaft to save me money and, my wallet thanks you. I will continue to look for a blower but in the meantime I will save my money and just get a tuner, UDP's, exhaust and such. However, can I run the tuner with my stock air intake and exhaust? Can throw in a K & N filter in for cheap and call it good intake wise, along with a 75mm TB?

Oh the reason why asked about the superchips tuner for the mustang is a friend has one I can borrow for awhile to test kinda what a tuner will do. The tuner is for a 99 though and mine is a 2000, I don't think there is a difference but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Thanks

Oh and about working on the vehicle, I know its hard but sorry guys. I kinda have access to a full shop and lifts. Sorry for those who have to craw on their backs.

Yes you can run the tuner in total stock form.

As far as intake mods, I would recommend an aftermarket plenum with the TB. Professional products has a 75mm TB and Plenum combo for under 200$ that will net you the same gains as one of the real expensive accufabs. (you can get it on ebay) A lot of people will disagree with me here saying the Professional product tb/plenum is cheaply made and blah blah, but to me, when we're talking about such a minimal hp gain there is no reason to spend twice as much. Again im sure people will disagree with me but thats just my opinion on it. I've been running the PP combo for over a year now and couldn't be happier.

And yes the K&N drop in filter is your best bet, all in all you're going to get the same power from a k&n drop in as you would some fancy cai. The only purpose a cold air intake serves is for looks when you compare the hp gains to a regular ol' drop in k&n.