What Exactly To Do To Get Into Low 13's

Btrainfiveoh · Aug 14, 2015

Hmm, alright understood, and yes obviously they have blowers here, but the absolute cheapest I can find new is 3500 plus tax. As for used, I have yet to find one, if I do find one for 2k, yeah, that'd be perfect.

Also, for the time being, like i said I'll be pulling the motor to change gaskets and seals in the winter time when I have a bit more free time, at that point, what if I ported the stock heads, and through a edelbrock type upper and lower manifold on it. Kept the stock cam and what not...as for porting cost on the stock heads, it'd maybe be 1-200 for me. I know a fella who owns a shop locally who owes me a few favours.
Maybe in a couple years if I still have the car I'll be willing to throw in more money, which at that point a blower set up or something else may be seen.
But for now, I'm trying to keep it low cost, but still gain some power/have fun.
I have my other mustang I have to spend on, the exterior/visuals of this one, a ring, wedding, house to save up for... So unfortunetly putting money into building a rocket out of this fox isn't going to be top priority.

Also thanks for the responses fellas, it's nice to hear what others have tried and gotten solid results with, more knowledge for free is always the best

7upstang91 · Aug 14, 2015

Suspension, suspension, suspension. Cut you 60' down and you'll be ahead of the game.

MY 85 GT · Aug 14, 2015

My 87 GT VERT speed density, stock long block factory air box...mods where shorty headers,off road H-pipe, flowmaster cat back...mild stall...3.55s AOD...system in the trunk im about 240 lbs...car ran consistent 14.0s with a 2.0 60ft street tires...i bolted up a little powerdyne blower and went 13.1 on street tires...so im sure you can get decent ETs

mikestang63 · Aug 14, 2015

Never understood why the first thing newbs think is the holy grail to hp is to swap in a cam in an otherwise stock motor. I've taken a stock cammed, Speed Density car into the 12's.. The only time you should be swapping cams is in conjuntion with a good set of heads, valve springs, intake, throttle body, MAF, injectors that are all matched to work together.

If you want 13's do what people have said

gears
sticky tires
reduce weight
1.7 rockers
short belt at the track
bump timing at track
drive it like you stole it

cleanLX · Aug 14, 2015

When I lived at sea level, my car went consistent 13.2's at 100mph with the following mods;
Hurst shifter, stock mass air meter bored to 62mm, off road H pipe, 3.73's, drag radials.
No weight removal, no suspension mods, nothing but what is listed.
Pretty sure if it had 4.10's and full exhaust it would have been into the 12's... at sea level.
If on a budget, and wanting to run low 12's, money is much better (an more fun) spent on seat time than a bunch of mods.
'Course, that's my opinion.

cleanLX · Aug 14, 2015

Part 2 goes like this;
I moved to the desert, horrible d/a and not near as well prep'd tracks. Car went a best of 13.9's at 97mph.
I added the following;
76mm MAM, full exhaust, 4.10's, electric fan, skinnies and DOT's. Car went 12.9's at 104mph in 2600' d/a.
That would be 12.4's at 106 at my home track (sea level)
Again, it does not take much.
Certainly do not need heads/cam... an intake would have made it much easier.

kchaser · Aug 14, 2015

My wife takes her 93 supercharged fox to a whooping 15 sec ET. Rear wheel hp on dyno is a tad over 400hp. Everything is there for 13sec car (cam, intake, heads, SC, gears and tires). Driver just need some work, lol. I won't drive it, I will break it. Oh. This is in Denver so DA is over 8500'. I

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mikestang63 · Aug 14, 2015

kchaser said:
My wife takes her 93 supercharged fox to a whooping 15 sec ET. Rear wheel hp on dyno is a tad over 400hp. Everything is there for 13sec car (cam, intake, heads, SC, gears and tires). Driver just need some work, lol. I won't drive it, I will break it. Oh. This is in Denver so DA is over 8500'. I

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she needs to take the E brake off man. I dont care what air there is 400rwhp and 15second times don't match unless you smoke the tires the first 60ft

kchaser · Aug 14, 2015

Or shift at 3800rpm, Or take off in 3rd gear (first run yesterday). Or have the rev limiter set at 1000rpm (second run yesterday, my bad. Lol. She when 32 mph... Ahaha). She will get there. It was her first pass yesterday.

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Btrainfiveoh · Aug 14, 2015

mikestang63 said:
Never understood why the first thing newbs think is the holy grail to hp is to swap in a cam in an otherwise stock motor. I've taken a stock cammed, Speed Density car into the 12's.. The only time you should be swapping cams is in conjuntion with a good set of heads, valve springs, intake, throttle body, MAF, injectors that are all matched to work together.

If you want 13's do what people have said

gears
sticky tires
reduce weight
1.7 rockers
short belt at the track
bump timing at track
drive it like you stole it

I never once said I want to throw a cam in it and I'll get crazy power... I said as stupid of a reason it is, I wanted the cam for the lopey idle sound... Yes yes it's silly and I've gotten past it.
I'll be doing 355 gears next, and possibly port the heads when I pull the motor out to re seal/gasket it. Now my question, are 1.7rr really worth it?? What kind of gains do you think I can get with that swap. Also, what intake would be best for me? Something like an edelbrock performer upper and lower, or just a gt40 intake... And what kind of power gains could I expect from that if any?

kchaser · Aug 14, 2015

No a stupid reason for the cam. If you want it get it. I have the e303 in the girl car I I love the sound.

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A5literMan · Aug 14, 2015

E cam does sound good. Op...if you want to use/port some stock heads that's fine. You can get them to flow close to gt40's. The problems are #1 not cost effective(usually costs around 500-650$w/parts) and #2 they will be maxed out and limit you if you want more power. Nobody is saying it can't be done. It's just limited. If that's ok with you then I say go for it! The blower is the most economical "go fast" option(if you want more than 13.50's). They are very dependable for a daily driver. They also don't really use any more fuel per se as long as you keep your foot out of it lol.

If you want to do the ported e7's,cam,intake route I highly recommend a better cam than the E. I know money is an issue but you should get a custom grind(costs about 350-400$ and unless you're buying a used cam an E cam costs 200$). The E cam really has a narrow powerband 3-5500rpm and is soft below 2700rpm(way less than stock). Again it's ok but lots of better profiles out there. Even another ots grind(which is still 300$) like the comp cams 268-270(if I remember right?)-tfs1 or an Anderson Motorsports grind. As far as an intake goes that typhoon(used for 150$) isn't a terrible intake(I've used one for a few years). It's a performer knockoff. Better choices would be an Eddelbrock RPMII or Holley systemax. Any are better than stock.

Ultimately it's up to you(obviously). Everybody is just trying to point out their experiences and costs. I know that my present h/c/i project costs more than just a blower kit would have and I'm going to make less power. It ultimately doesn't matter to me. I can add the extras later(as you could too if need be).

Noobz347 · Aug 14, 2015

mikestang63 said:
she needs to take the E brake off man. I dont care what air there is 400rwhp and 15second times don't match unless you smoke the tires the first 8th of a mile

Btrainfiveoh · Aug 14, 2015

A5literMan said:
E cam does sound good. Op...if you want to use/port some stock heads that's fine. You can get them to flow close to gt40's. The problems are #1 not cost effective(usually costs around 500-650$w/parts) and #2 they will be maxed out and limit you if you want more power. Nobody is saying it can't be done. It's just limited. If that's ok with you then I say go for it! The blower is the most economical "go fast" option(if you want more than 13.50's). They are very dependable for a daily driver. They also don't really use any more fuel per se as long as you keep your foot out of it lol.

If you want to do the ported e7's,cam,intake route I highly recommend a better cam than the E. I know money is an issue but you should get a custom grind(costs about 350-400$ and unless you're buying a used cam an E cam costs 200$). The E cam really has a narrow powerband 3-5500rpm and is soft below 2700rpm(way less than stock). Again it's ok but lots of better profiles out there. Even another ots grind(which is still 300$) like the comp cams 268-270(if I remember right?)-tfs1 or an Anderson Motorsports grind. As far as an intake goes that typhoon(used for 150$) isn't a terrible intake(I've used one for a few years). It's a performer knockoff. Better choices would be an Eddelbrock RPMII or Holley systemax. Any are better than stock.

Ultimately it's up to you(obviously). Everybody is just trying to point out their experiences and costs. I know that my present h/c/i project costs more than just a blower kit would have and I'm going to make less power. It ultimately doesn't matter to me. I can add the extras later(as you could too if need be).

Great reply and thanks for the info. In your opinion what do you think is the bigger bottle neck, the heads or the intake manifold.
Motor will be pulled in winter to re seal/gasket...
Option a for me will be: put it back in as is(feel like that's a waste)
Option b: port the stock heads and put it back together(porting cost 1-300 dollars for me here locally)
Option c: port the stock heads, upgrade the springs and throw in a cam(pricier option but again, some performance gains and that lovely idle sound) and top it off with an edelbrock or that typhoon intake (budget buy) ...

Or, with option b I could port the heads slap it back with the stock cam and what not and throw the edelbrock intake on it (or typhoon)... What gains would I have by throwing an aftermarket upper and lower on a stock cam, mild ported heads... ?

Eventually, yeah in couple years if I have the car still I may do a blower set up. As for gears, yes they'll be changed to 3.55's soon as well.

FoxMustangLvr · Aug 14, 2015

I'm not going to try to up sell you on your build like others. This is your car and I understand budgets and how expensive it is to build two cars so you want to keep cost down on this car.

Port the heads, you'll get a few extra HP out of it,
Keep the stock cam, but if you really want the sound then go for the E. I think you said you've driven in a stang with an E cam, right? If you liked it then get it.
Get the older Performer intake

You need to work on your suspension, gearing, traction and seat time for the best results at the track.

A5literMan · Aug 14, 2015

^^^what he said

mikestang63 · Aug 14, 2015

Noobz347 said:

well played Sir

Stang D · Aug 14, 2015

Have you ever ported iron heads before? If not I highly recommend you do it once. I've done a few sets before I could afford good heads. Don't forget to update this thread and tell us how long it took, and don't forget the eye protection. And get some gears soon. You will swear your car just picked up 50 HP. Do whatever bolt-ons you want. Most make a minimal difference but it is still fun. You'll want tires after the gears. You might be able to come up with something used if you look hard enough. The Canada thing complicates some of this but you'll figure it out. Keep us posted.

Btrainfiveoh · Aug 15, 2015

Stang D said:
Have you ever ported iron heads before? If not I highly recommend you do it once. I've done a few sets before I could afford good heads. Don't forget to update this thread and tell us how long it took, and don't forget the eye protection. And get some gears soon. You will swear your car just picked up 50 HP. Do whatever bolt-ons you want. Most make a minimal difference but it is still fun. You'll want tires after the gears. You might be able to come up with something used if you look hard enough. The Canada thing complicates some of this but you'll figure it out. Keep us posted.

No, I have not ported heads before and the thing is there's a guy I know who owns a local machining/porting shop and he owes me a few favours, hence he was going to port then for 1-300 dollars based on how much time i wanted him to spend on em...
And yes, being out in canada it's a bit harder, especially my local area, the fox's and this scene is coming pretty rare to see now

Stang D · Aug 15, 2015

Btrainfiveoh said:
No, I have not ported heads before and the thing is there's a guy I know who owns a local machining/porting shop and he owes me a few favours, hence he was going to port then for 1-300 dollars based on how much time i wanted him to spend on em...
And yes, being out in canada it's a bit harder, especially my local area, the fox's and this scene is coming pretty rare to see now

If I had a $300 budget for heads I would get some Explorer heads and perhaps your buddy could freshen them up a bit. You wouldn't outgrow them as fast as E7s. Explorers and gears and you should be near your goal if you get any traction at all.

What Exactly To Do To Get Into Low 13's

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7upstang91

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At least it is lumpy...

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