What happened to dodgestang.com?
- Thread starter mustangprodude
- Start date
68 Coop
New Member
Dan, to "roll" the fender, is just that. Guys used to take a stick/baseball bat, and turn the wheel, let the bat pass thru between the tire and fender, and it would roll it out of the way from rubbing. 
The back is the same, except they beat the lip of the well up flush with the qtr to stop the back from rubbing. Hope this helps.
The back is the same, except they beat the lip of the well up flush with the qtr to stop the back from rubbing. Hope this helps.
1320stang
Founding Member
Actually, the rolling was usually done on the rear wheelwell. The rear tires are usually larger and this was where it was needed. Plus, the steering linkage would want to turn the wheel if you tried it up front. The rear wheelwell is usually made up of multiple layers of metal spot welded together, whereas the fronts are usually single layer. A dolly and hammer were usually used up front because of this and it's also easier to get at.
Just like anything else, depends on your touch. Some guys have been able to do it without chipping the paint, it depends on how much roll you want. Obviously it's best to do before final body work and paint, but after rust has been taken care of.
Just like anything else, depends on your touch. Some guys have been able to do it without chipping the paint, it depends on how much roll you want. Obviously it's best to do before final body work and paint, but after rust has been taken care of.
You've got to be careful when rolling the fenders, if careful it just bends the lip up. It doesn't ruin it as much as a tire at speed will.
As for backspacing, are you asking what it is, how to measure it?
To measure it, lay a straight edge across the backside of the rim and measure down the the surface that mounts to the hub. That's the backspacing.
As for backspacing, are you asking what it is, how to measure it?
To measure it, lay a straight edge across the backside of the rim and measure down the the surface that mounts to the hub. That's the backspacing.
{To measure it, lay a straight edge across the backside of the rim and measure down the the surface that mounts to the hub. That's the backspacing.}
Is that just measuring on the wheel itself? So if it says that you need a certain amount of backspacing you have to buy a rim with that dimension of find the correct spacer? Thanks alot for clearing all this up for me
Is that just measuring on the wheel itself? So if it says that you need a certain amount of backspacing you have to buy a rim with that dimension of find the correct spacer? Thanks alot for clearing all this up for me
cardude
Founding Member
i was instructed by centerline when I bought my wheels that the measure for backspace is not flush with the top (back ) of the wheel but the ridge that the actual bead sets into.
dont shoot the messenger I am just trying to relay what I was told!
dont shoot the messenger I am just trying to relay what I was told!
The difference between the outside of the rim and the outside of the bead will vary from one wheel type to another. But it is uaually less than 1/4 inch, which WILL matter for many caliper clearance issues but the rubber should have more room than that anyhow.
In other words if you are worried about having the rubber hit the fenders and only have 1/4 inch to play with your tires are too big or you lowered the car too much.
Just my $0.03 (adjusted for gas price increases).
In other words if you are worried about having the rubber hit the fenders and only have 1/4 inch to play with your tires are too big or you lowered the car too much.
Just my $0.03 (adjusted for gas price increases).
70vert
New Member
Here is a visual
this is a nice visual for ya from the Eastwood Fender Roller, a very expensive baseball bat. Come to think of it, isn't there an Eastwood aluminum bat? ;-)
As far as cracking paint, I always wondered if some gentle warming with a heat gun would help that out. You get your bat in your right hand and your heat gun in the left, tell your buddy to creep the car forward, and try some real gentle even heat to soften the paint - hopefully it doesn't bubble the clearcoat. Of course you want to do final paint after fender rolling, but seeing as many of us just don't have the money and have to limp along on the old paint job, this might help somebody out.
http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT
this is a nice visual for ya from the Eastwood Fender Roller, a very expensive baseball bat. Come to think of it, isn't there an Eastwood aluminum bat? ;-)
As far as cracking paint, I always wondered if some gentle warming with a heat gun would help that out. You get your bat in your right hand and your heat gun in the left, tell your buddy to creep the car forward, and try some real gentle even heat to soften the paint - hopefully it doesn't bubble the clearcoat. Of course you want to do final paint after fender rolling, but seeing as many of us just don't have the money and have to limp along on the old paint job, this might help somebody out.
http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT
Dan The Man said:
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