what kind of timing light

A regular light will work fine to check and adjust your timing. To check timing on that year Mustang theres a little "spout" right near the distrubutor that needs to be unplugged. Its basically a little plastic jumper plug.

How much are you gonna use it? If you plan on useing it a lot I'd say invest some cash in it. If not get the $40 auto parts special.

I personally don't even own a timing light any more and I work as a Driveability Tech at a Ford/Mercury?Lincoln dealership. We just don't see that stuff anymore. If I run across something that requires one I borrow from another person.

As mentioned disconnect the SPOUT so you can set timing. It will take away any advance and get you to base timing. As per Ford the spec is 10* BTDC.

geo93notch: The only time I've had a timing light with advance come in really handy was when I was setting total advance on older carbureted cars, rather than setting timing at idle.

The stock mustang balancer already has marks at 10 and 14 degrees, so if you are trying to just set your base timing or bump it up to 14, there's really no need for a light with advance.

If you just need to use it occasionally, go for the cheap one.

Also, like the other posters said, don't forget to pull out the SPOUT connector before you set the timing. I didn't know about it the first time I set the timing on a 5.0, since I was so used to old Mustangs.

Jeff

I just picked one up from Sears. Nicely chromed and very shiny.

It works better than the part store unit I purchased a few years ago. That thing never did work right.


jason

Like mentioned above, if you are not going to be using it often just a cheap gun with no advance or anything fancy would be suffiicient.

If you are going to use it often then I would grab a digital timing light with advance

I have a cheapie with advance. I'll note that some of the cheaper ones seem to be a bit inaccurate at higher advance readings. But if you time a motor that only has one hash mark on the balancer, it's better than nothing.

I'm kinda with some of the other guys on here- I seldom use a light (I do with the stangs only to compare what I run to what y'all run). Otherwise, I do it by ear. With older carbed stuff, as soon as it got older or was modded, a few of the stock specs went right out the window, and timing adjustment specs was one (for me).

Good luck.

HISSIN50 said:

I'm kinda with some of the other guys on here- I seldom use a light (I do with the stangs only to compare what I run to what y'all run). Otherwise, I do it by ear. With older carbed stuff, as soon as it got older or was modded, a few of the stock specs went right out the window, and timing adjustment specs was one (for me).

Good luck.

Click to expand...

I think we talked about that before.
The number really doesn't mean much.
In the end you will tune the car based on how it is running, not what number shows on the balancer.
For several years I tuned without the light.
I never would have bought the craftsman light, except that 10* is required for tuning with the TwEECer.

I have seen instructions on setting the ignition timing based on engine vacuum.
Unfortunately my memory is failing me though.
If anyone can provide that info it may be helpful?

jason

vristang said:

I think we talked about that before.
The number really doesn't mean much.
In the end you will tune the car based on how it is running, not what number shows on the balancer.
For several years I tuned without the light.
I never would have bought the craftsman light, except that 10* is required for tuning with the TwEECer.

I have seen instructions on setting the ignition timing based on engine vacuum.
Unfortunately my memory is failing me though.
If anyone can provide that info it may be helpful?

jason

Click to expand...

Timing with a vacuum gauge:
Start engine , bring it up to operating temperature. Set the idle speed below 800 RPM if possible, remove the SPOUT. Connect the vacuum gauge, and loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Advance the timing until the highest steady reading is obtained on the vaccum gauge. Note that if the gauge pointer starts to make sweeps or oscillations, retart the timing until it stops. Tighten down the hold down bolt, turn off the engine. Disconnect the vacuum gauge and cap & secure loose wires, SPOUT and vacuum lines. Start the engine, note any cranking problems that surface because of the advanced timing. Drive the car under various conditions: if you notice pinging using 93 octane gas, retard the timing slighty until it stops. Very old school method, but it will yeld useful results.

The vacuum gauge is one of the most useful and inexpensive test tools you can buy. There could be a whole chapter devoted to its uses in automotive diagnosis.