what modifications would i want to stay away from

ford302redneck · Feb 2, 2008

I semi agree with stock gears.

Not that I have them. lol.

But They came already in the car, and honestly, I wish I could go back.

BTW, you don't HAVE TO do gears right now. You could always wait till after your install then decided.

Also, listen to Grady, from what Ive seen, he knows whats up or down.

BlackVert · Feb 2, 2008

autumn_again said:
whys that?

i was actually looking at them, so its good to know to stay away from them now. because they were ones i was looking at.

because:

1. they are a real pain to work around; it is very hard to get to some of the plugs
2. they burn up spark plug boots. at least mine did, and i even had those heat shield protector thingies on them
3. what little gain there is does not pay for the pain they cause

Adam95GT · Feb 2, 2008

Pokageek said:
DONT buy mallory fuel rails or a "jegs" catback system.

AHAHAHA dude you were sooooooo pissed at thoes rails....

autumn_again · Feb 2, 2008

DDSTANG94 said:
why do u want stock gears soo bad ????

i don't, i'd actually like to put some different gears in, because of the improvements i hear on them.

but i'd hate to buy them just to pull them out because they wont work well with a blower.

autumn_again · Feb 2, 2008

Methodical said:
I think your first ? to BlackVert should've been - Why not?

On a side note. If you buy parts you no longer need you can sell them easily. So not to big of a deal there.

yeah thats basically what i meant by it. like why is that i shouldn't buy them. why not suits the question better though.

and the thing with buying parts that i wont need anymore, is that i'll buy them, and if i buy them new, i'll take a hit when i sell them used.

i won't make my money back on the part, so i'd be losing money. it may only be a couple bucks, but a whole bunch of parts that i won't be using anymore, selling at a couple bucks cheaper, it adds up.

autumn_again · Feb 2, 2008

final5-0 said:
Any Aluminum head will give you thicker decks which is better for boost
and they will flow better as well. They could be some of the older FMS
heads or what ever you can find.

Adequate fuel supply is big intank pump, 42# injs and you'll need a
matching caled meter to go with them.

You'll need a hotter ignition to deal with spark blow out

You know ... common sense things

To make 400 to the wheels ........

You don't need a butch of fancy forged this and that

Of course the choice in rear ratio has nothing to do with the goal but as
you said ... why buy twice so I'd kind of think 355's or 373's since the
blower is gonna be involved.

Since it seems as this is a long term project and budget is a key factor

Just keep you eyes peeled for good used deals on the simple stuff
like headers, tb, and the like.

The point I was trying to make you don't need all the best parts
since the boost can make up for a few misgivings here and there.

If you wanna run NA for a while before boost then you might have to do
a bit of double dipping with things like inj's, maf, and such because what
works good for NA won't be adequate for boost.

Example: I don't see how you could run 42's without a tune
so
You might have to run smaller inj's while NA and the 42's later

Grady

yep i'm always on craigslist looking for good deals locally, seeing if i can find anything to bring me to my goal faster.

so would it be smarter just to wait till i have all the acquired parts to go to S/C instead of ripping things apart multiple times and doing them over.

things like the intank pump and ignition set up i can't go wrong with though correct? like ahead of time before i go forced induction.

i'd like to get this underway this april at englishtown swap meet, pick up some parts for the car to get its to its goal.

autumn_again · Feb 2, 2008

BlackVert said:
because:

1. they are a real pain to work around; it is very hard to get to some of the plugs
2. they burn up spark plug boots. at least mine did, and i even had those heat shield protector thingies on them
3. what little gain there is does not pay for the pain they cause

ah, so they turn regular maintenence into a hassle.

shorties or long tubes is there a certain one that is better for S/C?

BlackVert · Feb 2, 2008

i didn't like the long tubes i got (KOOKs), but others are very happy with theirs.

i dumped the KOOKs and got accufab mid-lengths ... i like them

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=734236

ford302redneck · Feb 2, 2008

You didn't like Kooks?

Can't say, Ive heard alot of bad about them.

final5-0 · Feb 2, 2008

ford302redneck said:
You didn't like Kooks?

Can't say, Ive heard alot of bad about them.

When talking about 94-95 application

1) Kooks hang VERY low

2) They usually leak at the slip joints

From everything I've seen about these headers ..........
they are more of a race type header

I've seen peeps gripe about 1 & 2 for a good many years now
but
They do make power

Grady

ford302redneck · Feb 2, 2008

final5-0 said:
When talking about 94-95 application

1) Kooks hang VERY low

2) They usually leak at the slip joints

From everything I've seen about these headers ..........
they are more of a race type header

I've seen peeps gripe about 1 & 2 for a good many years now
but
They do make power

Grady

Thanks. I thought bout buying some. But there kinda costly.

Also, do you have AIM, if so PM me your s/n.

Methodical · Feb 3, 2008

autumn_again said:
...i dont mind so much buying parts again, what can i do if i find one part that works better with one another besides suck it up and dish out the money.

It's inevitable. Just consider it a down payment on the new parts.

Check out this thread: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=843771

autumn_again · Feb 3, 2008

Methodical said:
It's inevitable. Just consider it a down payment on the new parts.

Check out this thread: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=843771

yep, read that a while back. going to read it again tonight though. it gives mea good idea of what not to buy haha.

what modifications would i want to stay away from

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