What next?

bynummustang

Seen my other Jackstand?
Jul 24, 2005
1
2
69
NC State University
Some of you may recognize my user name, for those of you who don't, my name is Jordan Robinson and I'm fairly new to the mustang world. I have grown up around mustangs and always loved them. I worked two jobs to be able to buy a 1990 lx 5.0 with a 5-speed to call my own. The previous owner had done some work to it, and I have done some work to it as well. I just put a 76MM C&L MAF kit on earlier today. The rest of the mods are in my signiture. I am looking into what to do next. I've looked at the engine kit from Trick Folw: Upper and lower intake, came, and assembled heads for just over $2000. I'm stuck between getting that or saving a bit more and buying a stroker. If you recomend saving, for what size? I've heard of people running a 306 stronger than a 347. And one thing I truely don't understand, is why do companies sell a 331 and a 347 for the same price? If they're the same price why not just buy the extra 16 cubes. What is good about the 331 that keeps it on the market.
 
My next mod would be an intake manifold. I'd go with an Edelbrock Performer, but the choice is up to you.

I'm not sure what the power difference is on the stroker kits, but when you have a lower stroke it moves the powerband lower. A 331 should rev higher than a 347, but it won't have as much torque. It just depends on what you're looking for. I'd go 331 b/c it has the best of both worlds.

If you're set on buying the H/C/I all at once, then I'd do a stroker first. By doing this, you've established a good foundation for future modifications, you'll be more comfortable with the engine knowing it's fresh, and by having more cubes, the H/C/I will add more power than if it were just a 302/306.
 
like intense said the 331 can rev a little higher with the trade-off being slightly less torq. also the 331 in theory will have better longevity due to less piston side loading (better rod ratio). they go for the same price because it's not like the old days when the only way to get bigger cubes with you motor was to get your old crank offset ground and custom compression height pistons-a couple of very expensive procedures, everyone makes reciprocating assemblies for dirt cheap these days.

you can pretty much guarantee yourself at least 30hp + 40lb-ft more than your stock 302 just by swapping to the 331 or 347...all else being equal.

I've also noticed from driving my friends Cobra, you can get away with a slightly bigger cam with the bigger cubes without sacrificing as much driveability as with a 302/306.

as far as the h/c/i swap, the trick flow is a proven package that can give you 350hp (with proper tuning of course), and like intense also mentioned Edelbrock makes a great intake...you could always make a composite kit with the Edelbrock RPM or RPMII intake, with the TFS heads and cam-I'm betting that would kick some serious butt...
 
Thank you to both of you. Can anyone guess or estimate what my power, torque and times would be? I don't live within a good 3 hours of any strips. The only reason I'm looking into the Trick Flow engine kit, is that it is a complete package. I don't spend $500 on the intake, $200 on the cam, $1400 for the heads all seperately. I get everything at once, and can have it installed and tuned together for less money. I am a high school student for the next two years. So I'm not looking for the ultimate street/strip monster. I just want somewhere near 350-400 horses, and be able to run high 11's or low 12's after I finish with the car.
 
Grn92LX said:
A 331 will NOT rev higher than a 347. I don't know how many times I have to say this. What dictates how high an engine rev's is what parts you put on top of it!

Heres a few links. Heres a 347 that pulls to near 9000 rpm making almost 550 n/a rwhp http://www.the-arnolds.net/Cobra/347project.htm

Heres a thread for some more facts.

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24967


thank you for being so blunt...but the parts they are using in those articles will make ANY engine rev to 9000rpm-even a 427W...most of us don't have that kind of budget. I suppose what I should allude to would be with equal parts, the POTENTIAL for the 331 to rev quicker-not necessarily higher (happy now?) is greater than with a 347...longer stroke equals more time to swing it...then you have to take vehicle weight into consideration.

now I suppose you'll send a couple of links out concerning some truly exotic 355 stroker 302 build with knife edged counterweights...

regardless, this is an academic discussion and it's gonna end up being up to the driver of the car, me personally I would choose the 331 for better oil ring stability, better rod ratio, and less piston side loading-but that's me, and I'm sure there are dozens of people that could tell me I'm a fool for thinking that a 347 piston with only a 1.09" comp height has equal or better stability than a 331 piston that has 0.085 more height to it...you can call it like you see it, let the guy make up his own mind-he asked for opinions, that's exactly what he got...we all know what they say about opinions
 
txstang, my 347 uses a 1.175" compression height piston. Its a 331 piston :) The same piston probe and scat use in their 331 kits. I use a 5.315" rod. Not becuase i'm afraid of rod ratio though, I use that rod/piston combo because the 5.4" rod combo I wanted was on a long-ass back order. So Rick (my builder) called me and asked if I minded switching to the 5.315" combo. Later
 
Jordan, sorry to have polluted your post with a ton of opinionated bs...

go with whatever combo you want, do your research before you buy anything to ck for compatibility with what you want your car to do and with how much usable power you can get out of it.
 
None of you polluted my post. I asked for help, in any way, shape, or form. I got what I asked for, and am now armed with more knowledge than I previously had. Thank you for the insight. I don't need 500+ ponies... of course it would be nice, but I'd burn up so many clutches trying to be able to drive a car with that kind of power. I want to have no more than 420 horses, and be able to drive everyday if I need to. So in a word, I should get the engine kit, so the stroker can function properly?
 
It's just whatever you feel comfortable doing first. It will function properly, it'll just be slightly choked up. Just think of the V8s in the late 70s and early 80s, just packing alot more power.

If it were me:

If your car smokes: stroker first
If not: H/C/I first
 
IntenseBlue said:
It's just whatever you feel comfortable doing first. It will function properly, it'll just be slightly choked up. Just think of the V8s in the late 70s and early 80s, just packing alot more power.

If it were me:

If your car smokes: stroker first
If not: H/C/I first

very good point
 
If you do a stroker, you will need the h/c/i to compliment it for the most gains, as said above the stroker kit will net you some good hp, but the h/c/i on top is what will make the real power. I would do the h/c/i because just the stroker wont get you 350hp. H/C/I is gonna cost a bit so is a good stroker, being a student myself i can't afford both so i did the h/c/i 302.
 
I dont think the trick flow kit gets you 350. Maybe at the crank. Regardless, thats what i would do. If your going to build a stroker, your going to have 2500 in just the shortblock. Then you need bigger heads, bigger intake, and you might as well go with a custom cam. Together with all the misc costs, your looking at about $5k give or take.
 
well, i dunno about 350 to the wheels, but i know TFS all but promises that it will endow your stock 5.0 with 350 possible hp. Tuning goes a long way too, but with that top end kit, I don't think it comes with squirters, and putting a h/c/i package on like that would almost be a sin to not upgrade the fuel system as well.

we did that with my friend Pauls 88 vert (1EVIL88VERT), it ran well with the 19's but you could tell it was leaning out in the top end even with the pressure cranked up to 55.

but yeah, it get's expensive quick