What smog/emission equipment do I delete???

[7991LXnSHO]

I hope you meant some thing, not someone is dripping from the pipe!
Before we help with more power, that drip is a concern. Is it motor oil? And is it coming back out of the exhaust, or is it from an external engine leak onto the pipe?
The internal causes could be from the PVC system malfunctioning or internal engine wear.

 

[mattys91gt]

I hope you meant some thing, not someone is dripping from the pipe!
Before we help with more power, that drip is a concern. Is it motor oil? And is it coming back out of the exhaust, or is it from an external engine leak onto the pipe?
The internal causes could be from the PVC system malfunctioning or internal engine wear.

yes something lol but ya it's not oil it seems like water and carbon coming out of the tube I'll take some pictures when I get home but I wasn't sure if the smog pump was going bad I got the car in August and before that it had a 2014 sticker on the windshield so it sat I changed everything I could so far on the car and it has a leaking sound coming from the smog pipe to the h pipe also and it has 2 hose clamps on it I'm new to mustang and I do what work I can to my own cars but this is the first car I worked on from the 90s

 

[7991LXnSHO]

This is good news. Black water is likely condensation and carbon (soot).
See post #2 in this thread for a great pic of the AIR system.
Jrichker has a longer write up on the system if you need.
If your pump is not making noise, I doubt it is going bad. The stock style catalytic convertors need the air for complete combustion, and the pipe that goes across the back of the heads injects air for cleaner running at start up.

 

[mattys91gt]

This is good news. Black water is likely condensation and carbon (soot).
See post #2 in this thread for a great pic of the AIR system.
Jrichker has a longer write up on the system if you need.
If your pump is not making noise, I doubt it is going bad. The stock style catalytic convertors need the air for complete combustion, and the pipe that goes across the back of the heads injects air for cleaner running at start up.

I have a h pipe no cats that's why I was wondering to remove the smog pump and cap everything off

 

[General karthief]

If you have no cats then pull the pump and related hoses, there is a pipe that runs from the pump to each head that has to be dealt with, it has to be capped, it connects to each head in the back that can be a pain remove and cap, if you're not concerned with looks just put a plug or smash the end flat.
I always advise to save the pump and related parts.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

If you delete the TAD TAB solenoids, the hoses, the smog pump, the head crossover pipe and block the holes in the heads, you will still have codes. Without the cats, they are not doing much for emissions.

Will it hurt performance to have a irritated computer from the missing parts? Mine runs better with all the parts intact and no codes. Your experience might vary. Save the parts to reinstall for the smog police and eventual resale. It’s already the law, they just need to enforce it like the diesel shop enforcement of late.

 

[mattys91gt]

If you have no cats then pull the pump and related hoses, there is a pipe that runs from the pump to each head that has to be dealt with, it has to be capped, it connects to each head in the back that can be a pain remove and cap, if you're not concerned with looks just put a plug or smash the end flat.
I always advise to save the pump and related par

If you delete the TAD TAB solenoids, the hoses, the smog pump, the head crossover pipe and block the holes in the heads, you will still have codes. Without the cats, they are not doing much for emissions.

Will it hurt performance to have a irritated computer from the missing parts? Mine runs better with all the parts intact and no codes. Your experience might vary. Save the parts to reinstall for the smog police and eventual resale. It’s already the law, they just need to enforce it like the diesel shop enforcement of late.

is there away to just cap off the tube to the h pipe all I hear is a leaking noise coming from it and I have the kit that goes to it the metal pipe and the piece of rubber and a few clamps

 

[7991LXnSHO]

is there away to just cap off the tube to the h pipe all I hear is a leaking noise coming from it and I have the kit that goes to it the metal pipe and the piece of rubber and a few clamps

The rubber piece that hooks the the H pipe or cats is high temp silicone. I’m sure you could get a cap or plug at the hardware store and another Ideal brand hose clamp to make a short cap that would be reversible. Crimping the metal hose flat, or putting in a plug (a fender washer?) and welding it either way would be more permanently leak proof.

 

[mattys91gt]

i just wanna

The rubber piece that hooks the the H pipe or cats is high temp silicone. I’m sure you could get a cap or plug at the hardware store and another Ideal brand hose clamp to make a short cap that would be reversible. Crimping the metal hose flat, or putting in a plug (a fender washer?) and welding it either way would be more permanently leak proof.

now is it ok to to cap off the h pipe and leave the smog tube pinched off or does it all have to come off and plug them and cap all the broken lines that go to the smog pump all snap when u try to move them it's my first mustang it's tricky over text to figure it out lol but thank you everyone for the answers

 

[7991LXnSHO]

i just wanna

now is it ok to to cap off the h pipe and leave the smog tube pinched off or does it all have to come off and plug them and cap all the broken lines that go to the smog pump all snap when u try to move them it's my first mustang it's tricky over text to figure it out lol but thank you everyone for the answers

I will try again, but if I’m not clear, someone else can take a shot.
1. Remove the pump. And remove the outlet hose that’s about the size of a heater hose.
2. Find the valve that hose attaches to on the other end and disconnect it. Disconnect the hose from the other side of the valve and to where it goes to the h pipe.
3. Cap off the the line to the H pipe. OR crimp it. OR cut it off the tube and weld a patch over the hole.
4. Remove the crossover pipe from the back of the heads. Ford makes recessed plugs like used in the front of the heads, but in the back, the right size bolts and washers will come out easier when you decide you have to put it all back for the smog police.

Before you go farther, the question is how many codes do you want to avoid, or is absolute max weight reduction your goal?
You can remove the diverter valve that will be now hanging on the header, cap it’s vac lines off, not remove the solenoids (TAD and TAB) on the back of the passenger strut tower, and avoid most of the smog codes. It might not like not having extra oxygen pumped to the heads at warm up, but if the solenoids work, you could be OK on that.
If you pull the TAD and TAB solenoids and start messing with more vac lines, the computer will tattle on you. It might not make it mad enough to affect performance. But my car runs better with everything hooked up, functional, and the all good code 11 only.

 

[mattys91gt]

I will try again, but if I’m not clear, someone else can take a shot.
1. Remove the pump. And remove the outlet hose that’s about the size of a heater hose.
2. Find the valve that hose attaches to on the other end and disconnect it. Disconnect the hose from the other side of the valve and to where it goes to the h pipe.
3. Cap off the the line to the H pipe. OR crimp it. OR cut it off the tube and weld a patch over the hole.
4. Remove the crossover pipe from the back of the heads. Ford makes recessed plugs like used in the front of the heads, but in the back, the right size bolts and washers will come out easier when you decide you have to put it all back for the smog police.

Before you go farther, the question is how many codes do you want to avoid, or is absolute max weight reduction your goal?
You can remove the diverter valve that will be now hanging on the header, cap it’s vac lines off, not remove the solenoids (TAD and TAB) on the back of the passenger strut tower, and avoid most of the smog codes. It might not like not having extra oxygen pumped to the heads at warm up, but if the solenoids work, you could be OK on that.
If you pull the TAD and TAB solenoids and start messing with more vac lines, the computer will tattle on you. It might not make it mad enough to affect performance. But my car runs better with everything hooked up, functional, and the all good code 11 only.

Im sorry I'm new to mustangs I always hear to take this off and cap this and tons of different story's what to do I was wondering since I had a h pipe and I keep hearing a hissing nosie coming from the tube going to the h pipe unless I have a exhaust leak but thank you again I didn't mean to make you go into full detail that's my fault since I watch all different YouTube videos just wanted to know if it's worth it and I'm in Massachusetts it's a 91 so we don't have emissions after 15 years so it's only safety I have to pass

 

[mattys91gt]

Im sorry I'm new to mustangs I always hear to take this off and cap this and tons of different story's what to do I was wondering since I had a h pipe and I keep hearing a hissing nosie coming from the tube going to the h pipe unless I have a exhaust leak but thank you again I didn't mean to make you go into full detail that's my fault since I watch all different YouTube videos just wanted to know if it's worth it and I'm in Massachusetts it's a 91 so we don't have emissions after 15 years so it's only safety I have to pass

I do have another question about timing and if I should stay at 10

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Im sorry I'm new to mustangs I always hear to take this off and cap this and tons of different story's what to do I was wondering since I had a h pipe and I keep hearing a hissing nosie coming from the tube going to the h pipe unless I have a exhaust leak but thank you again I didn't mean to make you go into full detail that's my fault since I watch all different YouTube videos just wanted to know if it's worth it and I'm in Massachusetts it's a 91 so we don't have emissions after 15 years so it's only safety I have to pass

The details are not a problem for someone who wants to learn.
I just want to make sure you know what you are doing.
You can get a lot of bad advice from those that do not understand the systems and have made their cars less streetable for no good reason.

About it being safe from checks after 15 years, please save the parts anyway. The diesel mod crackdown has been very ugly so far. The emissions laws are already Federal laws that are long on the books for our cars. Someone just needs the will to enforce them and ruin our fun.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

For timing, I’ll quote Steel1 in this thread.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/successful-first-start-timing-question.921241/#post-9309592

“Some engines like a little more timing some a little less, factory was 10* but most of these cars seem to perform better
between 12* and 14* (this is all spout removed )
I would pull the spot and set it for 12* , spout back in and see how it likes it.
Once you get the timing set, which will probably help the car idle, I would do a base idle reset before messing with the idle stop.”

And here is the Surging Idle Checklist that has the base idle reset instructions an a whole lot more. This should take at least three reads to really get in your head. Then you’ll know more than most young mechanics do. You might see other processes for resetting the base idle online. This works well and is how you want to do it.

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

www.stangnet.com

 

[manicmechanic007]

We are all in this air together
I dare you to run most of it
Been an I/M inspector since 1984 when the freakin EPA came to our county
It is possible to make one run like a bat out of hell and be semi clean at the same time

 

[mattys91gt]

For timing, I’ll quote Steel1 in this thread.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/successful-first-start-timing-question.921241/#post-9309592

“Some engines like a little more timing some a little less, factory was 10* but most of these cars seem to perform better
between 12* and 14* (this is all spout removed )
I would pull the spot and set it for 12* , spout back in and see how it likes it.
Once you get the timing set, which will probably help the car idle, I would do a base idle reset before messing with the idle stop.”

And here is the Surging Idle Checklist that has the base idle reset instructions an a whole lot more. This should take at least three reads to really get in your head. Then you’ll know more than most young mechanics do. You might see other processes for resetting the base idle online. This works well and is how you want to do it.

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

www.stangnet.com

ok with the timing it definitely looks like I need a new balancer but someone put a mark at 0 I think I have to clean it up a little more I think its marked at 10 then I made the line for 12 and 14 so if I set it at 14 what am I supposed to be hearing pings and misfires my timing gun is from harbor freight I know cheap stuff just wanted to pick ya brain on it some more idk if I can post pics yet but I'll grab a pic and see if they marked it correctly

 

[vristang]

Yes, test driving is how I’ve always done it, sometimes didn’t even use the timing gun to set it, lol. As you advance timing, it will probably accelerate faster. Advance it too far, and you will hear that dreaded ping like in a hollow tin can sound. When you hear that, you went too far, back it off. Most recommendations are to adjust in 2 degree increments.
I always set the timing with the fuel grade I will be running.

I don’t recall anywhere that the tab/tad affect the logic of timing or fuel tables in the ecu. If those are the only codes you have, then there shouldn’t be any performance or drivability issues.
Based solely on my memory of 16yrs so ago though, lol.

 

[mattys91gt]

Yes, test driving is how I’ve always done it, sometimes didn’t even use the timing gun to set it, lol. As you advance timing, it will probably accelerate faster. Advance it too far, and you will hear that dreaded ping like in a hollow tin can sound. When you hear that, you went too far, back it off. Most recommendations are to adjust in 2 degree increments.
I always set the timing with the fuel grade I will be running.

I don’t recall anywhere that the tab/tad affect the logic of timing or fuel tables in the ecu. If those are the only codes you have, then there shouldn’t be any performance or drivability issues.
Based solely on my memory of 16yrs so ago though, lol.

I just filled it up with 93 it definitely runs better with the timing up more I think it's at 12 or 14 but the car is mostly stock I have a h pipe flowmasters mufflers and tail pipes cars a automatic with a shift kit so I wasn't sure if I should advance it at all thank you for the reply this is my first mustang I got it for my 40th bday

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Yes, test driving is how I’ve always done it, sometimes didn’t even use the timing gun to set it, lol. As you advance timing, it will probably accelerate faster. Advance it too far, and you will hear that dreaded ping like in a hollow tin can sound. When you hear that, you went too far, back it off. Most recommendations are to adjust in 2 degree increments.
I always set the timing with the fuel grade I will be running.

I don’t recall anywhere that the tab/tad affect the logic of timing or fuel tables in the ecu. If those are the only codes you have, then there shouldn’t be any performance or drivability issues.
Based solely on my memory of 16yrs so ago though, lol.

I’m not sure it does either. Maybe my better driveability results were from going through the surging idle checklist, and from not having messed up vacuum lines. Putting everything back in working order, including high flow cats, did not hurt performance measurable outside of track conditions with slicks. Part throttle response was improved enough to make breaking tires loose easier with a jab of the throttle.

 

[vristang]

LXnSHO, I wasn’t trying to imply anything there, hopefully no offense was taken, just that those codes don’t kick the logic out of closed loop, and I don’t think timing or fuel is affected…. Not directly anyway…. Again, haven’t looked at that info in since around 2006, lol