What suspension mods are fairly easy to do with basic hand tools?

Chowder Head said:

I want to improve my suspension but I would like to know what I should attempt, and what would be best to leave to the pros.

I got a price inquiry from a local shop here and that will put in new full length SFC for 85 bucks, total. Thank you to whoever mentioned that to me.

Anyway, since I know I'm definatly going to get that done, I was curious if I should ask him to put in some more stuff. That is, unless it's pretty easy to do.

So what suspension mods are easy to install? I don't have a garage, a lift, or a welder, just your basic socket wrenchs and such. Would it be best to not attempt springs? Don't you need a spring compressor to do that job?

Thanks for any replies, I appreciate it!

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You can do any with basic hand tools really. Just need common sense. I did my whole suspension with basic hand tools. All but the torque arm and subframes. It just takes patience, and if you have a buddy, that helps too. Check out the link in my sig, and you will see what was accomplished.

This site has some pretty good step by steps on some suspension installs. Good luck, www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/ctips.htm

I've done everything to my car with just basic handtools. One of those Craftsman tool kits for around $230 has everything you need. The only specialty items I have ever needed has been a balancer and pulley puller along with a tap set for the blower's return line.

S/CBlack95GT said:

I've done everything to my car with just basic handtools. One of those Craftsman tool kits for around $230 has everything you need. The only specialty items I have ever needed has been a balancer and pulley puller along with a tap set for the blower's return line.

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It doesnt hurt to have a compressor though, especially for the strut tower nut.

RC

yeah, i've done everything on my car myself, and just recently did i get an air compressor(the best investment for a car guy). aslone as you have a breaker bar, torch, and a regular set of metric and standard wrench\sockets, you can do pretty much anything. also having 2 jacks kicks ass. you don't even need a spring compressor for the spring removal. but definitly, if you think you'll want to work on your car alot, an air compressor it huge help.

be careful when *****ing with the springs

Every suspension mod I've done have been with basic handtools, an impact wrench, and a jack and jackstands. Those are the MUST HAVE'S of any garage/shop. Those mods include, springs (no compressors, just lower the control arm slowly with a jack to release the tension), shocks, struts, sway bars, upper control arms, and lower control arms. My SFC's were welded in by a local shop.

Another must have for a lot of work is a torque wrench, especially engine work. Shaun, I really hope you used one of those when bolting on those heads and intake.

Chowder Head said:

I know impact tools make the job easier, but how exactly do they work? And do they run on battery or a power cord? Any ideas on the price for a good name brand?

So the mods that are definatly worth it are:
Springs
Shocks/Struts
Upper control arms (and lower too?)
Am I missing anything?

And does anyone have a under the car pic, highlighting where everything is relating to the suspension?

I'm kinda new to this, that's why I made this thread in the first place.

Thanks!

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Impact wrenches generally run off a compressor. Although you can buy electric ones too. A 3/8" drive impact will do most anything, although for bigger things, you'll want a 1/2" drive. Craftsman is really the only brand I buy. I got a new 1/2" drive off eBay for like $50, the guy bought it, and never used it.

Here's the best suspension mods:

1) Full length weld in subframe connectors (reduces chassis flex and roll)
2) springs (lowers center of gravity, reduces body roll)
3) lower control arms (improves straight line traction immensely)
4) shocks/struts (improves response from road, helps cushion vibrations caused by aftermarket springs)
5) sway bars (reduces side to side play, drive without the rear one hooked up, and the rear end will wiggle all over the place in corners)
6) upper control arms (reduces side to side axle deflection, mainly used for autocross cars, spherical bushings can cause bind (where the axle binds in one spot) then release causing snap oversteer (where the axle snaps back into place, sending the car violently off to one side) and are generally not recommended for street cars. I have them on mine though, and have never had any problems)

That's about it unless you want to get into tubular k-member and a-arms and all that front suspension. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the suspension. There's a link floating around here somewhere that has a page that describes in detail the 4-link rear suspension, I'll try to find it and post it.

I will go against what has been said a little. When things go to crap, it is nice to have lots of weird tools around. I have used just plain hand tools and had to be real creative (where a dedicated tool would have been more efficient).

When I have taken inventory of the garage after a front suspension stripping and renewal, there are tools pulled out that I dont even remember having.

You can do a lot with plain ol' handtools, but I dont want to downplay things in case it goes to poo. One seized bolt can toss the proverbial wrench into the mix.

And I dont care what anyone says, treat springs with the upmost respect. You might want to try the MFE method for spring removal. Some folks like that way better.

I am about to go do some searching on what the best bang for the buck struts and shocks are myself.

Oh yeah, if you have a Haynes manual, the first pages of chapter one (IIRC) has pics of the underside of the car with notations of where things are.

HISSIN50 said:

I will go against what has been said a little. When things go to crap, it is nice to have lots of weird tools around. I have used just plain hand tools and had to be real creative (where a dedicated tool would have been more efficient).

When I have taken inventory of the garage after a front suspension stripping and renewal, there are tools pulled out that I dont even remember having.

You can do a lot with plain ol' handtools, but I dont want to downplay things in case it goes to poo. One seized bolt can toss the proverbial wrench into the mix.

And I dont care what anyone says, treat springs with the upmost respect. You might want to try the MFE method for spring removal. Some folks like that way better.

I am about to go do some searching on what the best bang for the buck struts and shocks are myself.

Oh yeah, if you have a Haynes manual, the first pages of chapter one (IIRC) has pics of the underside of the car with notations of where things are.

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Yes, i've had to use a breaker bar wit a pipe on it to get the extra leverage plenty of times. And while i've done all the suspension mods on my chevys10 mostly alone, i would highly recommend u have a buddy with you, god forbid the car rocked off the jack, and always have a spare set of jacks under the car.

CHowder, the best bet is to follow Meyer's advice and have a buddy who is conversant with the suspension around. Cant offer more advice than that - some of you guys really fly compared to me.

Good luck!