What to change first? Intake, MAF, TB?

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Most guyz that do the "intake" side of the engine (meaning everything pre engine) do those 3 as a combo.. You wont realize too much of a gain with any of the 3 alone.

Usually, they/we do MAF, TB and U/L intake as a "single" upgrade mod.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!
RC
 
do the intake first. the maf and t/b are not a restriction for you ...... yet

the stock lower intake is the biggest restriction on a (mostly) stock motor

OH...I forgot to add this to the end of my original statement.

Though I think the 3 should be changed together, if you were only going to do one, then yes, the intake first.
RC
 
when you say intake are you just talking about a cold air intake or actually the intake manifold?

I would say to do the intake manifold and throttle body ( same opening as the intake manifold) at the same time....and also add in the cold air intake too...

MAF you dont really have to change since we have a 70mm anyway...

You should change it out when you start putting some real power to the ground such as when you do heads and cam and you have to change out your injectors or if you go forced induction.
 
Question guys...do subframes/suspension mods actually make you quicker?
I mean like, obviously if you have a lack of traction your going to gain from susp. mods, but if you hook fine?
Do subframes make your car feel faster? Actually faster? Just feel better all around?

Sorry to kinda go OT.
To the poster, I just bought an explorer (Cobra) Upper and Lower Intake + CAI, I'll let you know how it feels Sunday night. :)
 
MM full lengths tied in with custom jacking rails is my favorite mod so far. You will be suprised how much better a unibody frame feels with the existing hp.
 
True ... He wasn't all that specific :D

But I kinda got by his wording ... He is looking for power :nice:

Sure ... chassis improvements, shifters, and other non power
producing mods are great and at some point in time, they
could be a must have kinda thing ...

But if he is looking for power :shrug:

Considering he is very close to stock and already has gears

I'd go intake and hold off on the tb as he is just not moving
much air at this time ... the gain would be very small :(

I'd also hold off on the meter until he needs larger inj's cause ...
A 19# caled meter is another small gain if any kinda mod

I'd put some of that tb/maf money in pulleys and home made cai,
and
as for the rest of that tb/maf money ............

I'd start saving for the next big gain mod ...........

Heads and supporting parts to make em really work well :D

That is if he is going the NA route of h/c/i

Who knows ... He might wanna go Forced Induction :shrug:

Grady
 
Question guys...do subframes/suspension mods actually make you quicker?
I mean like, obviously if you have a lack of traction your going to gain from susp. mods, but if you hook fine?
Do subframes make your car feel faster? Actually faster? Just feel better all around?

Sorry to kinda go OT.
To the poster, I just bought an explorer (Cobra) Upper and Lower Intake + CAI, I'll let you know how it feels Sunday night. :)

As far as SFC's the car just FEELS a lot better. I have a hard top and when I put mine in, had NO rattling or vibrations when going over bumps. ON a Vert it is just multiplied a few fold.
RC
 
get an intake (not air suckie tube intake), the lower is the big restriction. If you have plans for a headswap in the future I would look into an edlb. intake or a gt40 and maybe get the gt40 ported when you do heads.

Air suckie tubes...they look better but I dont know if you gain anything from them, maybe 1-2hp:shrug: . I would do an ebay air sucky tube (I have been thinking of swaping out my home made one for a ebay unit).

the stock maf and t-body are proven able to make 290-ish rwhp, so I would do a t-body 70-75 and then a maf if after that or if/when you go to better heads/power adder.
 
Air suckie tubes...they look better but I dont know if you gain anything from them, maybe 1-2hp:shrug: . I would do an ebay air sucky tube (I have been thinking of swaping out my home made one for a ebay unit).

No doubt in my mind at all :nono:

If you draw fresh air from the fender ;)
and
If it is a cool day or evening ;)

You'll gain a good bit more than 1 or 2 rwhp :nice:

When I was running my little self ported E7 combo ......
I could tell a noticeable (not big mind you) difference on cool evenings :banana:

Keep in mind ... For that very first home made CAI .......
I got a double gain hit from the K&N AND cooler air charge temps :D

I have always felt you need at least 10 and more like 15 rwhp to
feel a noticeable gain myself :)

Now ... When the temps are high ...
the gains from a CAI will be small ... if any :(

Grady
 
weather here is gen muggie/humid and the cars I have been party to a few air suckie tube installs that really made no diff. in 1/4 or SOTP. I am sure something if only from the smoothing of the tube v. the stock thing. I think most of the gain is from the gen adding of a K&N or like filter at the same time if anything though...just me though. I am keeping the "air suckie tube" and "filter" gains as sep. mods with both I could see 5-10hp.

If I want cooler air I will just flip a switch and add some -125* air :D , so its no real big deal to me.
 
What kind of modifications or clearances would I need to do if I get a Edelbrock performer on a stcok engine? Is the factory hood ok? If not, What hoods have enough clearance?

Everything would fit fine except the stock Strut tower brace, which you can delete or upgrade for about $100. Everything else is fine.
RC