I think you should swap an LSx into it. Way more reliable than that stupid 5-point-oh.
What makes it more reliable exactly? Dont give me the same lame xxxhp from a JY engine blah blah... I can do the same thing with any explorer engine and a $300 turbo.I think you should swap an LSx into it. Way more reliable than that stupid 5-point-oh.
What makes it more reliable exactly? Dont give me the same lame xxxhp from a JY engine blah blah... I can do the same thing with any explorer engine and a $300 turbo.
I have tuned many SBF and LS engines they both end there life in glorious fashion when something lets go.
Our grudge car runs a stupid 5-point-oh stock block engine..... we put LS cars in there place every weekend.
Your sarcasm detector is busted.
(Or it is my lack of skillfully relaying it.)
I think you should swap an LSx into it. Way more reliable than that stupid 5-point-oh.
So is his understanding of the many uses for the word " there"perhaps
Why are you bothering? This is the thread where everybody goes to waste their time, and misuse the word there.Looks like a good unmolested start. The on3 kit is the best bang for the buck...get some 47 pound injectors.... wide band o2 sensor...255lph pump....megasquirt or stinger ecu...and let her eat.
That will get you 500hp+ The brakes and suspension will need some work but nowhere near as much as a fox.
With on3 get the ceramic ball bearing turbo upgrade, ceramic coated hot side, down pipe heat blanket, and turbo blanket. Throw the exhaust gaskets in the trash and use high heat permatex rtv. ( sold in every parts store ).
You come off like you're a bit cocky. Glad to see you humbled a bit.
To be completely honest ( i have a turbo car ) a supercharger would be cheaper, easier, and more reliable.
Hey so I decided to build the car. I was wondering what ECU unit I should go with?
I'm not seeing this as a recent question in the chain of replies...did you go back in time?Hey, man. I thought you were already gone, lol.
I still recommend you buy the car you want rather than spend the 1 year minimum to build & as much money in parts as you could buy the already built car for, but alright, let's do this. I'm bringing the convo back to the main thread. The down side of having the discussion here is that you'll be drawn in different directions from the differing opinions. On the plus side, it will force you to consider other approaches and that will ultimately lead to more knowledge.
So, regarding the question you're asking here, there is a single, most important principle to follow: First select the right tuner, and second, use the system that your tuner is most comfortable with.
This can be an extremely in-depth conversation, which I started to type out, before realizing that it was going to take a novel. Instead, I'm going to make a long story short and just give my #1 recommendation: get a megasquirt system and let @a91what tune it. This guy specializes in small block fords, and has specific experience tuning turbo cars like yours. Several members here have already vouched for his work, and if I didn't tune my own car, he would be my first choice. While most shops in California will charge you $1k+ and give you a full-throttle tune that is not likely to do well in day-to-day driving conditions, @a91what will stay with you to ensure driveability is excellent, and he will help with part recommendations along the way. Further, he's the first guy in this thread who seriously tried to help you. Finally, you will have an extremely versatile system that you can grow with, and that you can personally modify when/if you learn to tune yourself.
Your other reasonable option is to take your chances with a local tuner and a piggyback system. The advantage here is that the system will be cheaper, and it will be a simple 1-stop shop where you purchase the piggyback, and have it installed, and tuned under the same roof. The disadvantage is that most of these shops will just tune your car for full throttle and will leave you hanging on day to day driveability. You can probably get this done for ~$1k.
Whatever you do, avoid buying a hypertech or similar 'tuner' with preloaded, canned tunes that aren't custom to your car.
Given that you've decided to build it yourself, did you already decide on your setup?
Since you're still around and asking questions, my recommended setup is
Top end:
JY explorer motor for ~$300-$700,
roller rockers $200
-- OR --
used heads/intake:
GT40P ($400) or AFR/TFS/GT40X/Edelbrock or pretty much any aluminum head ($800-1200)
Cobra/GT40/Explorer or Edelbrock Performer intake. ($250-$500)
Stock cam is fine, but E or F cam ($150) would add a nice lope and a bit of power.
Your goal is a combo good for 250+ rwhp naturally aspirated. The turbo will do the rest. The more power N/A, the less boost you need from the turbo, but ultimately the same resulting power. I know it's tempting for a high dollar top end & built short block, but it's also where you can lose your budget.
Turbo Kit:
Add an air-to-air intercooled 60-70mm turbo kit. Do not get caught up in fancy bearings. If sized correctly, spool time will not be an issue.
I will never recommend On3, but rather a quality used HP Performance, B&G, or Hellion Turbo kit in the neighborhood of ~$2k.
*** premium waste gate is critical
Fuel system:
42+ lbs injectors. ($200+)
340 LPH fuel pump. $120
I like owning a quality Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but that's optional.
Not sure why people think a big fuel system is necessary for a stock block. The rails and lines should support the block's limits. A good pump and injectors will do the job.
Drivetrain:
26 spline TKO transmission ($2,600 new. Be careful if going used. Can save $1k+, but there are many bad trannies for sale out there.)
Aftermarket clutch of choice. I'm inclined to try Ram Clutches out nest time. Spec 3 has worked for me before. $350
31-spline + axles & differential if you want to run sticky tires. $750 (or find a built used one)
3.73 gears $300 + install
Suspension:
Lakewood 90/10 shocks or Strange adjustable $400
LCAs/UCA ($300)
B-springs or equivalent ($250)
Chassis:
Subframe connectors $150+ & install
reinforced torque boxes Welder rates.
Tuning:
$1k-$3k as per above recommendation
Now, if you just want a dyno queen you can get to 500 with just the fuel system, explorer long-block, turbo kit, & a $500-$1k dyno tune. So maybe $3k in parts, but if you want the whole package, the above recommendations is the whole car for $9k-$13k before installation. With used part deals, you increase the hassle, but you can also substantially cut down the cost.
Pretty much. A week ago, he pm'ed me asking for a list of parts, but at the time I thought he'd stick around for 2 days max, and was not ready to invest the time into it. I told him to buy the car built the way he wanted, just like several folks here did. His question on the eec was pm'ed today. I hope it's worth something to somebody.I'm not seeing this as a recent question in the chain of replies...did you go back in time?
And clearly judging by your reply........you found a way to add an extra hour to your life when you did.
Looks like a good unmolested start. The on3 kit is the best bang for the buck...get some 47 pound injectors.... wide band o2 sensor...255lph pump....megasquirt or stinger ecu...and let her eat.
That will get you 500hp+ The brakes and suspension will need some work but nowhere near as much as a fox.
With on3 get the ceramic ball bearing turbo upgrade, ceramic coated hot side, down pipe heat blanket, and turbo blanket. Throw the exhaust gaskets in the trash and use high heat permatex rtv. ( sold in every parts store ).
You come off like you're a bit cocky. Glad to see you humbled a bit.
To be completely honest ( i have a turbo car ) a supercharger would be cheaper, easier, and more reliable.
600 is just fine. And just to clarify I’d like them to be reliable so I guess what I’m asking is what are some kits that you know have good reviews
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