What type of oil to use?

BLADDER92FOX

Member
Apr 4, 2005
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Miami
I'm going to finally do my oil change myself rather then have ford do it for me this time. I was wondering what type of oil do i use for the summer? 10W-30 or 10W-40?,and what oil is good,i gave been using the motorcraft oil this whole time in the last year and 8 months. I know Ford has used 10w-30 and 10w-40 but i forgot which one is for what season,it should be 10W-40 for summer right?
 
One really wants to run the least viscous oil which provides decent pressure at all times. If you can do this with 10W-30, I would keep using that. If pressure lacks with 10-30 or you have blow-by issues, etc, then stepping up to 10W-40 is a good idea IMHO.

Good luck.
 
...let the flaming commence...

honestly IMO, just keep changing it with the same grade oil that's in it, if your pressure is still maintaining with 10-30-stick with it...besides, chances are that if you change to 10-40 you won't really notice a diff once the engine gets up to operating temp...

the choice of mfr of the oil is up to you-do you want regular or synthetic?

Oh-STAY AWAY FROM FRAM OIL FILTERS...
 
question, when i decided to start doing my own oil i went to see what the sticker in my window said from the last time it was changed and it had 5w30. what is the difference between the 5w and 10w. 5w is thinner right? my car has 120,000 miles. should i be using the 5w? thanks
 
The 5W-30 is best for cold winters. Reason being as the cold air hits the oil-pan, it starts to mildly gum up the oil in the oil pan. When you do a cold start, the oil viscocity is real low when the oil is like this and gets better once the car hits operating temps. By putting a lighter weight oil in the car, you increase the oil viscocity in colder temperatures.

For the most part, 10w-30 will suffice on older stangs as these cars have low compression engines. The 5w-30 and 5w-50 are for the higher compression engines found in Imports with 4-cylinders trying to max out 200 hp at 5000 RPM's.

I guess if you're finding your car is burning a lot of oil, I'd use the 10w-30 in the winter and in the summer I'd switch to 10w-40.

Myself, in my 1990 5.0 I've been using 10w-30 Valvoline Max Life. It's a conventional/synthetic oil blend. It offers some benefits that synthetics use like treating the old dry seals while offering the same kind of performance found in your basic conventional oils without going 100% synthetic. I have no leaking issues of any kind and have not had to "top-up" between oil changes :) My engine maintains a steady 51 psi at speeds of 120km/hr. At idle I'm between 25-30 psi.

Only warning I have for you is to stay away from Penzoil. I've heard of stories that 302's sludge up on that stuff.

Motorcraft is ok, but I think you're over paying for the same quart you'd get from Castrol GX.

I continue to use Motorcraft oil filters though. I've been tempted to use the Valvoline Max Life oil filters which are made by Purolator. The word on Purolator is that in the beginning they are really effective, however, due to the pleats being so close to each other, may not decontaminate older oil as quickly as if they were new.
 
txstang84 said:
...let the flaming commence...

honestly IMO, just keep changing it with the same grade oil that's in it, if your pressure is still maintaining with 10-30-stick with it...besides, chances are that if you change to 10-40 you won't really notice a diff once the engine gets up to operating temp...

the choice of mfr of the oil is up to you-do you want regular or synthetic?

Oh-STAY AWAY FROM FRAM OIL FILTERS...



why stay away from fram oil filters? :shrug: whats the best to go with?
 
Someone did a study of all the oil filters out on the market today and the FRAM's came off as a joke.

Apparantly, FRAM got cheap and started making the filter elements out of some crappy cardboard. They don't filter the oil worth a d#$% and you pay big bucks for them.

Like I said, I use the Motorcraft FL-1A's myself, but the Purolators are pretty good.

K&N filters are good also, but at $14 a filter :crazy:
 
is it ok to just use the 10w next time even though it has had the 5w for quite some time now? what about the oil for high mileage engines? the ones that say 75,000 +. i dont think i will be seeing any cold winters any time soon.
 
PonyBoy90 said:
Someone did a study of all the oil filters out on the market today and the FRAM's came off as a joke.

Apparantly, FRAM got cheap and started making the filter elements out of some crappy cardboard. They don't filter the oil worth a d#$% and you pay big bucks for them.

Like I said, I use the Motorcraft FL-1A's myself, but the Purolators are pretty good.

K&N filters are good also, but at $14 a filter :crazy:


well i guess i will be switching back to motorcraft.. i don't know why i switched in the first place. :bang:
 
motorcraft and purolator are probably the best "cheap" filter you can buy, if you want the best on the market, go with a K&N or Mobil1, the Mobil's have 100% synthetic filtering media and lots of it...

FRAM, like mentioned above, got cheap in their quest to reduce costs and increase revenues...they use the least amount of filter media first off. second, the filter end caps are made of cardboard, and frequently pop under high pressure situations, which only contaminates the oil and allows it to bypass the filter element allowing unfiltered and now contaminated oil into your bearings and galleys

in a nutshell, FRAM, Quaker State, and STP oil filters (I believe they're all made by the same company) are trash. Stick w/ Motorcraft, Purolator, WIX...something of the like, and you will be well served
 
ok, last time I checked STP is a Champion Lab filter.
QS is made by Arvin Meritor (Purolator).

I would not lump M1 and K&N together personally (they are both CL filters).
 
garystocker said:
PonyBoy90 said:
My engine maintains a steady 51 psi at speeds of 120km/hr. At idle I'm between 25-30 psi.




My pressure reads 60 on the highway and 35-45 @ idle w/ 10W-30

I have good results with 10W-40 as well. Your presssure is low IMO and will benefit from the thicker oil.

I use here in Maracaibo venezuela 15w40 pennzoil and dont have any problems and this place is hot like miami florida i think even hotter.
 
My oil pressure is 15-20 psi at 60mph, when I slam the gas down, it jumps to about 50?

Evidently, that's not normal is it? It should be holding in the 50 psi range? I use 30 wt oil, but will be changing to 10w30 Valv. Max Life next time I change oil.
 
HISSIN50 said:
ok, last time I checked STP is a Champion Lab filter.
QS is made by Arvin Meritor (Purolator).

I would not lump M1 and K&N together personally (they are both CL filters).


i stand corrected-I looked over that info again-my bad. I really wasn't attempting to lump M1 and K&N together, was intended to be more along the lines of..."use one of these M1 or K&N filters instead of..." Either of them is going to be better than the flim-flam-frim-fram filters
 
Best oil is clean oil!! Run a nice 10w30, maybe a blened castrol or quakerstate, heck even a full synthetic if you want..does not matter as long as it's clean. I use the K&N filter...because I like it and spending a little extra for something I trust is of no issue to me. Oil pressure can be affected by several different factors and 15PSI at warm idle is low, however an engine with that pressure may also have a ton of milage left in it if treated well. My old motor carried 10-15 warm idle..had a TON of power, but in the end had to go because she was using a disturbing amount of oil :)