What upper/lower control arms do you like?
- Thread starter 00 Red SS
- Start date
Well, first off, just because a particular car launched "really funny" with a particular set of rear control arms, does not mean your car will do the same. As you probably know, there are several variables that go into how a car launches off the line.
The fact, that both the front and rear of the car lifted may be a good thing. The front lifting implies some weight transfer to the rear. The rear lifting implies that the rear wheels have been planted to the pavement instead of the suspension absorbing the energy. I've seen some really quick cars launch just like you've described.
The HPM Mega-Bites and others like them are very good for the "beginning to mid-level" set-up, especially with automatic transmissions and not a lot of front end compression. Problems start to occur with the 8-9 sec cars, manual transmissions, and a lot of front end compression. They will bite very hard upon initial launch, however, many have found that between shifts when the front comes down, the rear tires unload and the wheels start spinning, resulting in poor traction and ETs. If you look at the geometry, they will push the rear chassis upward and the front downward...in a powerful car, that's trouble because it significantly reduces weight transfer to the rear.
I might suggest looking at the products that adjust the rear upper control geometry for a more efficient launch. The "Pro-Link" system from Pro Suspension Components is a bolt-on system that allows for instant center and pinion angle changes...call Real Speed Parts at 727-539-7383 for pricing info. Baseline Suspensions also has a similar system, www.baselinesuspensions.com. In regards to a rear lower control arm set-up, I like the "weight-jacker" control arms offered by Griggs Racing, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, and others.
I realize that these products are more expensive than what you may want to spend, however, they will likely handle any amount of power you want to throw at them. In addition, avoid any control arms that have urethane bushings on both ends as they will bind up your suspension far worse than the stock rubber bushing control arms. Look for control arms that have heim joints and/or spherical bushings on at least one end...as these will articulate and significantly reduce suspension bind.
My .03 worth.
The fact, that both the front and rear of the car lifted may be a good thing. The front lifting implies some weight transfer to the rear. The rear lifting implies that the rear wheels have been planted to the pavement instead of the suspension absorbing the energy. I've seen some really quick cars launch just like you've described.
The HPM Mega-Bites and others like them are very good for the "beginning to mid-level" set-up, especially with automatic transmissions and not a lot of front end compression. Problems start to occur with the 8-9 sec cars, manual transmissions, and a lot of front end compression. They will bite very hard upon initial launch, however, many have found that between shifts when the front comes down, the rear tires unload and the wheels start spinning, resulting in poor traction and ETs. If you look at the geometry, they will push the rear chassis upward and the front downward...in a powerful car, that's trouble because it significantly reduces weight transfer to the rear.
I might suggest looking at the products that adjust the rear upper control geometry for a more efficient launch. The "Pro-Link" system from Pro Suspension Components is a bolt-on system that allows for instant center and pinion angle changes...call Real Speed Parts at 727-539-7383 for pricing info. Baseline Suspensions also has a similar system, www.baselinesuspensions.com. In regards to a rear lower control arm set-up, I like the "weight-jacker" control arms offered by Griggs Racing, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, and others.
I realize that these products are more expensive than what you may want to spend, however, they will likely handle any amount of power you want to throw at them. In addition, avoid any control arms that have urethane bushings on both ends as they will bind up your suspension far worse than the stock rubber bushing control arms. Look for control arms that have heim joints and/or spherical bushings on at least one end...as these will articulate and significantly reduce suspension bind.
My .03 worth.
They are well designed and built.Similar threads
