what vales for C9OE/D0OE 351w heads ?

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Dec 3, 2002
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I'm slowly puting together a set of D0OE heads for my 302/5.0 and I'm wondering what valves I should use. I'm going to be using the motorsport dual springs for a 351 and 1.6 rockers (not sure which rockers still). What would be a good size for the intake/exhaust valves ? Oh and I'm using the motorsport F cam.
 
the stock size valves for those heads are 1.84I/1.54E and should be fine for a mild motor, even most of the Ford racing heads use that size valve because it works good with the ford intake/exhaust port sizes and combustion chambers. i would recommend an undercut stem valve like a manley Pro-Flo or something along those lines though for better flow. also if you can afford get a 5 angle valve job done and have the inner cut done at 30 degrees for even better low lift flow.
 
1.84 for the intake sounds good. Do you think I should go up to a 1.6 for the exhaust valve or would that not be worth it ? From what I know about heads... which isn't a lot, Ford heads mainly suffer on the exhaust side.

Using a short cut valve like you sugested, are there any special pieces parts I need to buy to make them work or will they work just fine with everything ?
 
i wouldn't bother with 1.60E valves unless you go bigger on the intake valves. the difference is only .06 inch. not enough to worry about IMO. the undercut valves are only cut back at the valve heads and the stems for a short little bit.
 
I was lookin in the Manley catalouge and I didn't see a bigger exhaust valve then the 1.6. For intake valves they have a few options. I don't really know if it is worth puting new valves in or if I have to. As far as I know, the stock valves are still good. Will the stock valves work with the stud mount roller rockers ?

Can I/Should I run a 2.02 valve in those heads ? I thought I remembered hearing that 1.94 was the bigest valve I can put in that head. I know head/cam combos are where a lot of power in a motor is gained or lost, I don't want my heads and cam to be miss matched and cause issues.
 
There is not enough room in that head for 2.02 intake valves and the flow simply does not warrant them. You should definitely not run the stock original valves as they are two piece and are prone to failure.....especially with age. Since you have to change the valves and you have to change the seats to make them compatible for unleaded fuel you should go with 1.94/1.60 valves. Do a mild gasket match port job with bowl work and you will have a pretty decent head.
 
In my '69 Windsor heads I ran Manley 1.90 I and 1.60 E with some good results on a 302 motor. Heads were also gasket matched on the intake and exhaust and later some stage III work. At the track I shifted at 7100 rpm with it still pulling.
 
Ok, well thanx for the advice on the valves. I'm gonna get some Manley 1.94I and 1.6E valves. They are much cheaper than I thought. Looks like I can get all 16 valves shiped for about 100 bux. Now to find me a good machine shop locally.
 
1.94in/1.60ex valves are about as big as you can go in a stock ford small block head(cleveland heads not withstanding) without running into valve shrouding problems, and even then you will have a minor issue on the exhaust side.
 
rbohm said:
1.94in/1.60ex valves are about as big as you can go in a stock ford small block head(cleveland heads not withstanding) without running into valve shrouding problems, and even then you will have a minor issue on the exhaust side.


which is the reason i suggested staying with the stock size 1.84/1.54 valves. the additional machine work costs and the shrouding issues just aren't worth it for a mild street motor, IMO, especially when you consider that with 1.90/1.60 valves you are only getting 6 thousandths of an inch bigger in diameter and even a 1.94 intake you only get 10 thousandths of an inch more diameter. i doubt you could even see the difference between 1.84/1.54 and 1.94/1.60 with the human eye!!!! have a look at the ford racing heads and you'll find that most of them even use the stock 1.84/1.54 sized valves.
 
Well, if I should replace the valves anyways because the stock ones are 2 piece why not upgrade to the bigger size ? Its no big deal IMO if I'm geting new valves. I have to have the valve seats replaced to work with unleaded fuel so I don't think it should cost too much extra to have them machine everything out for the larger valves.

I'm considering porting these heads myself or at least doing quite a bit of the port work myself, what tools should I use ? I have a dremel tool as well as a die grinder but I don't know what bits or discs I should use. Anyone have a good reference handy for a beginers porting guide ?