What weight oil you guys running?

CarMichael Angelo

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Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.
 
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kiddiccarus

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Btw, how are you guys doing out there with the virus? I’m from NY. Not the city, but out on Long Island. I’m in the food distribution business so I’m considered ‘essential’ and still working supplying the supermarkets. Really scary. Pray they get this under some type of control soon.
Got a Thread for that :nice: I'm With you man. I hope this gets under control soon and I am sorry that your in the thick of the situation right now, But hey, Keep Safe, Stay Healthy and Thank You for getting the supplies to where everyone needs them to be.

 

96pushrod

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Habu135. You daily that Fox? I live in the Northeast. We usually don’t hit 100+, but it can get real hot sometimes in the summer. And i know when it does, I don’t even touch my car. It just sits in the garage under its cover. And it has AC! Lol.

Btw, how are you guys doing out there with the virus? I’m from NY. Not the city, but out on Long Island. I’m in the food distribution business so I’m considered ‘essential’ and still working supplying the supermarkets. Really scary. Pray they get this under some type of control soon.
Cases and deaths really exploded here in georgia over the last few days. There are a dozen or so cases in my county, but surely there are many more.

I’m considered “essential” since I work on aircraft
 
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1hot87gt

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Got a Thread for that :nice: I'm With you man. I hope this gets under control soon and I am sorry that your in the thick of the situation right now, But hey, Keep Safe, Stay Healthy and Thank You for getting the supplies to where everyone needs them to be.
Thanks brother. You stay safe and healthy as well.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.
Nothing was said about flat tappit cam brake in or zink. You prolly just lookn for somethin to bich bout.
My comment was focused on stuff like lucas or STP oil additives, don't get me wrong, lucas makes great products but if your engine burns oil, no 'fix it in a can' will help.
Now back to the regular discussion bout changing the oil in a supercharged modern roller tappet engine and the covid-19 virus.
Damn old members here need to pay attention.
Wait
I'm older than he is :doh: crap!!
 
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HotFox

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Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.
If you know the right oil you will not need additives. I will be breaking in a flat tappet without any oil additives, I use Cenpeco in everything I own. You want to bet that I will not be taking that engine back down because I didn't use a additive Mike?
Scott
 
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revhead347

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Cases and deaths really exploded here in georgia over the last few days. There are a dozen or so cases in my county, but surely there are many more.

I’m considered “essential” since I work on aircraft
Who do you work on aircraft for? I'm essential too because I fly them. All my flights are cancelled though.

Kurt
 

revhead347

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Nothing was said about flat tappit cam brake in or zink. You prolly just lookn for somethin to bich bout.
My comment was focused on stuff like lucas or STP oil additives, don't get me wrong, lucas makes great products but if your engine burns oil, no 'fix it in a can' will help.
Now back to the regular discussion bout changing the oil in a supercharged modern roller tappet engine and the covid-19 virus.
Damn old members here need to pay attention.
Wait
I'm older than he is :doh: crap!!
Agreed, he was looking for something to bitch about. I guess technically there might be a few flat tappet cams on this forum, but it's in the 1%.

There's no reason to add anything to synthetic oil in a roller 302, unless you are trying to nurse it along with a mechanic in a can, and that usually makes it worse. I've also learned that buying expensive oil for one of these engines is pissing money down the drain too. Putting Redline, or Royal Purple isn't going to change anything on an engine designed 35 years ago. Now go on down to Walmart and get that bottle of Mobil One for $23.88. They are still open; they're essential.

Kurt
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Mike and I have a special (in my best 'church lady' voice) relationship, it's mostly poking fun at each other, that way he leaves other people alone :jester:
 

96pushrod

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Who do you work on aircraft for? I'm essential too because I fly them. All my flights are cancelled though.

Kurt
I work at gulfstream. We’ve been pretty lucky so far as far as sick people. I’m sure it’ll happen though.

You fly commercial?
 

revhead347

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I work at gulfstream. We’ve been pretty lucky so far as far as sick people. I’m sure it’ll happen though.

You fly commercial?
Yeah, I fly airline out of Atlanta. I've been sent home since Monday. All my flights are cancelled. I wish I was in Savannah (Pooler, but you know what I mean). Fewer people, and you have the lowest number of Cronk infections in the state.

Kurt
 
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Shakerhood

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Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
Several years ago I was doing routine maintenance on my Ex Fiance's Geo Tracker, she came back with a bottle of some kind of Lucas Transmission Additive and asked me to put it in because the guy at AutoZone told her it was great. I absolutely did not want to put that stuff in but got tired of arguing with her, needless to say about a month later I was replacing the transmission, first time in my life I came across a Manual Transmission that failed from non abuse.
 

7991LXnSHO

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I’ve been getting good deals on vr1 in 10w-30 so I run that. I’ve never really seen a purpose in running anything heavier than 30w unless spec’d by a builder.
With a roller block, you do not need the higher zinc oil to keep the cam healthy. The best base, crude or synthetic, for shear strength might be a much better buy with a power adder. Maybe the tech article an oil rep/chemist wrote for flat lifter engines will give some advice I can ask him about.
 

7991LXnSHO

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What about if you live in the southwest where temperatures in the summer are 100+?
Do you still have the owner's manual? I guarantee Ford torture tested these engines with different oils and temps, and then put it in a graph for those of us that like picture books the best. Unless your builder did something odd with bearing clearances and the oil system, please use the viscocity Ford says is best for your driving temp and conditions. If your book is gone, PM me snd I will see if I can scan the right page or two from my 91 owner's manual.

@Shakerhood I am sorry you got to prove what I always suspected as a counterman about the Lucas additives. Transmedic is the only one I have wanted to sell or use on transmissions. B12 Chemtool (and something from GM that curls up your nose hairs before they fall out after one whiff) are the best fuel system cleaners. They have solvents that Californian mice die instantly from just reading the label out loud near them. And I do not put oil (mystery, or seafoam) in my fuel if it is not a two cycle motor. Nor do I put in products with petroleum distillates as the primary or active ingredient. That's likely lighter fluid, kero, or gasoline.
 

96pushrod

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With a roller block, you do not need the higher zinc oil to keep the cam healthy. The best base, crude or synthetic, for shear strength might be a much better buy with a power adder. Maybe the tech article an oil rep/chemist wrote for flat lifter engines will give some advice I can ask him about.
I go with what Ed Curtis said to use with his cam. With a fairly aggressive ramp I figured it couldn’t hurt.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Let me say this about oil in modern engines, I would not use regular dino oil in it, the temperature that these engines run now will turn that stuff to goo. I had proof of that in a 93 grand am the girl drove, the oil was changed religiously but at about 65k the plastic intake manifold problem occurred and when they pulled the valve covers the goo was so thick that it looked like another valve cover under the real cover. No :poo:!! I used to have pics! We were paying for synthetic and they were putting cheap dino junk (is was serviced at a 'oil change place') in it.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I like Lucas products...but they must be used properly. I drove an 88 silverado crew cab on 7 cylinders and a rod knock for 2 years. On the highway and towing. The cylinder was so bad it would blow all the oil out the dipstick. I closed the spark plug....added a bottle of Lucas and 4 quarts of 10w40. The engine never did lock up...just got rid of the truck. Used to tow cars on a dolly and delivered moon bounces for kids parties. Every weekend I'd have about 4 in the bed and at least 6 on the trailer. We're talking those big vinyl house with water slides and all....jump rooms...all that stuff. Had an Astro van that only had first and second gear ( automatic ). Drove that for a while towing with Lucas added to trans. Transmission never went fully kaput. It only had first gear and then would slip never going into 2nd before the Lucas. Van wasn't able to be driven like that. Engine also had bad rings and would smoke like a freight train before putting Lucas in. Eventually, I built the van 4.3, camshaft, v8 TBI, installed a performance 700r4, and performance converter. ( that van was fun ).

On those vehicles I did change the oil about every few thousand miles. It was gummy and nasty but worked.

Another product that worked when used correctly was Blue Devil headgasket and block sealer. The instructions have to be followed to a T. Heater core bypassed and only use it with water during the process. Engine has to be completely flushed before and after.

BG also has great products that I've seen work really well to clean up cylinders and injectors.

I believe that GEO Tracker was supposed to take gear oil in the standard shift transmission. The Lucas trans additive is for automatics.
 

74stang2togo

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I like Lucas products...but they must be used properly. I drove an 88 silverado crew cab on 7 cylinders and a rod knock for 2 years. On the highway and towing. The cylinder was so bad it would blow all the oil out the dipstick. I closed the spark plug....added a bottle of Lucas and 4 quarts of 10w40. The engine never did lock up...just got rid of the truck. Used to tow cars on a dolly and delivered moon bounces for kids parties. Every weekend I'd have about 4 in the bed and at least 6 on the trailer. We're talking those big vinyl house with water slides and all....jump rooms...all that stuff. Had an Astro van that only had first and second gear ( automatic ). Drove that for a while towing with Lucas added to trans. Transmission never went fully kaput. It only had first gear and then would slip never going into 2nd before the Lucas. Van wasn't able to be driven like that. Engine also had bad rings and would smoke like a freight train before putting Lucas in. Eventually, I built the van 4.3, camshaft, v8 TBI, installed a performance 700r4, and performance converter. ( that van was fun ).

On those vehicles I did change the oil about every few thousand miles. It was gummy and nasty but worked.

Another product that worked when used correctly was Blue Devil headgasket and block sealer. The instructions have to be followed to a T. Heater core bypassed and only use it with water during the process. Engine has to be completely flushed before and after.

BG also has great products that I've seen work really well to clean up cylinders and injectors.

I believe that GEO Tracker was supposed to take gear oil in the standard shift transmission. The Lucas trans additive is for automatics.
Lucas's power steering additive works miracles on noisy steering pumps for Ford applications. It's the only snake oil from any brand I've ever seen actually fix anything long term.

Besides that, I use Seafoam on two stroke engines, and Techron on four strokes for fuel system maintenance, and that's it. (I do use Seafoam's intake and throttle body cleaner to de-carbon my dad's Hyundai GDI engine, it's similar enough to the BG product we used at the Hyundai dealership).

Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
With modern GDI engines, a few are recommended by manufacturers and/or dealerships now. BG's MOA comes to mind.
 
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74stang2togo

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Is that why ford uses a second set of injectors on di engines to clean off the valves?
I read that someplace.
That's part of it. It's also there for drivability and supposedly fuel economy.

Hyundai used their variable cam timing to hold the intake valve open a little longer during certain conditions to push a small amount of air/fuel mixture past it and then pull it back into the cylinder (which is why they don't have nearly as many of the GDI issues with carbon buildup as others) along with the recommendation to use Techron every oil change if not using top-tier gasoline. They do the same thing on the exhaust side to eliminate the need for EGR.

Valvoline and a few others have come up with new oil formulas just for GDI, and BG has an additive for it, and then there's a handful of different products and procedures for preventing and/or fixing issues caused by GDI.

VW has a walnut-shell blasting procedure to clean the carbon from their engines.

Of course none of this has anything to do with foxes. If I had one of those, I'd run the 5w40 Rotella I run in ElSuperPinto. It's got zinc, which, while not absolutely necessary for a roller cam engine, can't hurt it, and was there when the engine was designed and built in the 1980s. It's also a modern synthetic, so you get the best of both worlds.
 
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