Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
Got a Thread for thatBtw, how are you guys doing out there with the virus? I’m from NY. Not the city, but out on Long Island. I’m in the food distribution business so I’m considered ‘essential’ and still working supplying the supermarkets. Really scary. Pray they get this under some type of control soon.
Cases and deaths really exploded here in georgia over the last few days. There are a dozen or so cases in my county, but surely there are many more.Habu135. You daily that Fox? I live in the Northeast. We usually don’t hit 100+, but it can get real hot sometimes in the summer. And i know when it does, I don’t even touch my car. It just sits in the garage under its cover. And it has AC! Lol.
Btw, how are you guys doing out there with the virus? I’m from NY. Not the city, but out on Long Island. I’m in the food distribution business so I’m considered ‘essential’ and still working supplying the supermarkets. Really scary. Pray they get this under some type of control soon.
Got a Thread for thatI'm With you man. I hope this gets under control soon and I am sorry that your in the thick of the situation right now, But hey, Keep Safe, Stay Healthy and Thank You for getting the supplies to where everyone needs them to be.
Nothing was said about flat tappit cam brake in or zink. You prolly just lookn for somethin to bich bout.Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.
Says the guy that needs to read up on how the government mandated the removal of Zinc from petroleum based oil products. Try going through the break-in procedure for a flat tappet camshaft combination w/o adding an “ oil additive” with the missing Zinc.....you’ll be taking the engine back out with an oil pan full of wiped out cam journals.
Cases and deaths really exploded here in georgia over the last few days. There are a dozen or so cases in my county, but surely there are many more.
I’m considered “essential” since I work on aircraft
Nothing was said about flat tappit cam brake in or zink. You prolly just lookn for somethin to bich bout.
My comment was focused on stuff like lucas or STP oil additives, don't get me wrong, lucas makes great products but if your engine burns oil, no 'fix it in a can' will help.
Now back to the regular discussion bout changing the oil in a supercharged modern roller tappet engine and the covid-19 virus.
Damn old members here need to pay attention.
Wait
I'm older than he iscrap!!
I work at gulfstream. We’ve been pretty lucky so far as far as sick people. I’m sure it’ll happen though.Who do you work on aircraft for? I'm essential too because I fly them. All my flights are cancelled though.
Kurt
I work at gulfstream. We’ve been pretty lucky so far as far as sick people. I’m sure it’ll happen though.
You fly commercial?
Several years ago I was doing routine maintenance on my Ex Fiance's Geo Tracker, she came back with a bottle of some kind of Lucas Transmission Additive and asked me to put it in because the guy at AutoZone told her it was great. I absolutely did not want to put that stuff in but got tired of arguing with her, needless to say about a month later I was replacing the transmission, first time in my life I came across a Manual Transmission that failed from non abuse.Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
With a roller block, you do not need the higher zinc oil to keep the cam healthy. The best base, crude or synthetic, for shear strength might be a much better buy with a power adder. Maybe the tech article an oil rep/chemist wrote for flat lifter engines will give some advice I can ask him about.I’ve been getting good deals on vr1 in 10w-30 so I run that. I’ve never really seen a purpose in running anything heavier than 30w unless spec’d by a builder.
Do you still have the owner's manual? I guarantee Ford torture tested these engines with different oils and temps, and then put it in a graph for those of us that like picture books the best. Unless your builder did something odd with bearing clearances and the oil system, please use the viscocity Ford says is best for your driving temp and conditions. If your book is gone, PM me snd I will see if I can scan the right page or two from my 91 owner's manual.What about if you live in the southwest where temperatures in the summer are 100+?
I go with what Ed Curtis said to use with his cam. With a fairly aggressive ramp I figured it couldn’t hurt.With a roller block, you do not need the higher zinc oil to keep the cam healthy. The best base, crude or synthetic, for shear strength might be a much better buy with a power adder. Maybe the tech article an oil rep/chemist wrote for flat lifter engines will give some advice I can ask him about.
I like Lucas products...but they must be used properly. I drove an 88 silverado crew cab on 7 cylinders and a rod knock for 2 years. On the highway and towing. The cylinder was so bad it would blow all the oil out the dipstick. I closed the spark plug....added a bottle of Lucas and 4 quarts of 10w40. The engine never did lock up...just got rid of the truck. Used to tow cars on a dolly and delivered moon bounces for kids parties. Every weekend I'd have about 4 in the bed and at least 6 on the trailer. We're talking those big vinyl house with water slides and all....jump rooms...all that stuff. Had an Astro van that only had first and second gear ( automatic ). Drove that for a while towing with Lucas added to trans. Transmission never went fully kaput. It only had first gear and then would slip never going into 2nd before the Lucas. Van wasn't able to be driven like that. Engine also had bad rings and would smoke like a freight train before putting Lucas in. Eventually, I built the van 4.3, camshaft, v8 TBI, installed a performance 700r4, and performance converter. ( that van was fun ).
On those vehicles I did change the oil about every few thousand miles. It was gummy and nasty but worked.
Another product that worked when used correctly was Blue Devil headgasket and block sealer. The instructions have to be followed to a T. Heater core bypassed and only use it with water during the process. Engine has to be completely flushed before and after.
BG also has great products that I've seen work really well to clean up cylinders and injectors.
I believe that GEO Tracker was supposed to take gear oil in the standard shift transmission. The Lucas trans additive is for automatics.
With modern GDI engines, a few are recommended by manufacturers and/or dealerships now. BG's MOA comes to mind.Oil additives are so 1970. With synthetic and semi synthetic oils today it is not needed.
That's part of it. It's also there for drivability and supposedly fuel economy.Is that why ford uses a second set of injectors on di engines to clean off the valves?
I read that someplace.
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