Whats a good company for suspention kits?

I'm lookin too...

& based on no scientific facts, I'm leaning towards Maximum Motorsports.

I like these guys attitude & they'll mix'n'match parts in their kits to suite your
needs.

They carry Eibach springs now for 2.3 cars, too.

j

I'd go with Maximum if you can afford it. If not, you can mix and match between MM, Steeda, Griggs, Granatelli, HPM, Kenny Brown, etc etc etc.

Ash

Dushkwoneshe said:

& based on no scientific facts, I'm leaning towards Maximum Motorsports.

I like these guys attitude & they'll mix'n'match parts in their kits to suite your
needs.

They carry Eibach springs now for 2.3 cars, too.

j

Click to expand...

Great idea!

I would definatly go with MM.
CC plates are a great place to start. You can add a bunch of positive caster which helps the mustangs pathetic camber curve. Then, adding some negative camber will really help ultimate cornering power.
To make a mustang handle well, you need to limit front suspension travel. Go with the stiffest front springs you can stand on the street. Then, get a shock/struts to match them.
If you havn't done the 5.0 brake swap, that should be done before struts.
When you really start looking for the best performance, you will want to go with coil overs, an MM K member and a panhard bar with torque arm, but that is rather advanced and will require some tuning (corner weighing, rebound rates, ect)

You might want to do some research on the mustang rear suspension. Despite what steeda and other "mustang performance" companies say, you don't want stiffer bushings in the upper control arms. The mustang in stock form has a bad problem with snap oversteer as a result of suspsension bind. Putting stiffer bushings in the upper control arms makes the binding problem worse and will create new problems. The design of the rear suspension requires a change in the length of the upper control arms which is not possible. Instead, the bushing deform.
What I would do is get some rear lower control arms with a sherical bearing in one end (but not both). This allows the proper articulation of the control arm without inducing binding. Leave your stock 4cyl upper control arms alone. According to my mustang handling book, they are the optimal stiffness to prevent bind and control movement. Then, as you get more money for mods, you can spring for a pan hard bar. That may be the single biggest improvment for the buck on the mustangs rear suspension.
Then, when you realize the mustang doesn't handle for crap, but you already have to much invested, so it to late anyway, you can buy a torque arm which will allow you to remove the upper control arms completly.