What's jacked with my temp

Black Stampede

Founding Member
Sep 3, 2002
1,811
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39
Grand Rapids, MI
After I put my motor back together last summer my stock temp gauge always read quite high, but I really thought nothing of it because it ran fine and stock gauges suck. Well, recently I installed an auto meter temp gauge and it cranks right up over the 210 tick mark almost likes its around 230 or something. I just don't get it. It runs great, its full of coolant, so I dunno. Once in awhile I get a brief wiff of coolant smell when I'm driving it though. Any thoughts or input on whats wrong would be really appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
When does it run hot like this (or when is it more likely - on the highway or in town)?

If the latter, I would want to ensure the fan is coming on. Low speed should kick on at about 208* per your gauge (if using the stock sender port) and high speed comes on at about 228*F.

Does it run cooler when you have the A/C on?

Good luck.
 
It runs right up to that temp no matter what kind of driving I am doing. Oh and I dont know if it means anything at all, but when I cruise at night and its chilly and I have the heat on with the windows down of course, it wants to die at lights if I dont turn the heat off. Would that relate at all?

As for the AC, I removed it.
 
Mech or electric gauge (sorry if I missed it)? Is it possible that you have some air in the system? The air can make the gauge read pretty high.

So the amperage draw of the HVAC motor causes the car to want to stall, or is it having the selector in the heat position? If the latter, I'd have no clue.

I have to say I'm not thinking of anything real obvious unless you have an elec gauge. Sorry to not be of much help, but bumpity for ya.
 
Does your gut tell you that the gauge is correct? Sometimes elec gauges like to wander if they have a ground issue, etc.

I really dont have any bright ideas for ya.
 
Like said above, I'd check to make sure the ground on the gauge is good. When I first put my autometer gauge in it would max out and then drop back down to normal, so I knew I had a bad ground. Also, what radiator? and did you get a new water pump when you did the h/c/i?
 
Stock radiator, not sure what t-stat just whatever the standard autozone one was. And no, i didnt change the water pump. I'm not sure if i think its right. To be honest I kind of do think it is. My buddy rio95's car runs up to right around or slightly under the 210 mark so it's not too much higher than his and we both have higher compression than stock, however the reason I dont really believe it is it just seems so fricken high.

Any idea if the car dying at lights with the heat on at night has any correlation?

Thanks alot guys.
 
Here's kind of a dirty test I have done before. Go to wally mart and grab a new turkey thermometer (like a buck. Wait, 5 bucks with inflation from gas prices now. :( ). Starting with a cold motor, you can remove the rad cap and insert the turkey thermometer into the radiator (it can be wise to fill the area around the thermometer with a rag, etc). BE VERY CAREFUL OF HOT COOLANT - SOMETIMES IT WILL SPURT OUT AND CAN BURN YOU. I had to say it).

Now watch the turkey thermometer and see if the new gauge appears to be calibrated with the turkey meter.
A manual fan switch can provide peace of mind and help with diagnostics (if running around with the fan on cools you down, you're onto something).

The only thing with the near-stalling issue that comes to mind is that the idle is a hair low and the load of the electrical system is bogging the idle down further. I have messed with that issue myself. I dont really think that's it, unless you have a bad ground or other primary electrical connection.

Good luck.