what's the point of forged internals in a

88-378

Member
Aug 10, 2007
14
2
16
Alpharetta, GA
stock block? Almost every stroker company i contact says the block would go before the crank. so what's the point in having a forged crank?

I do understand that in a serious strip motor using a Boss block that it has it's advantage but for a 350WHP weekend fun car is it realy needed?
 
I ran a cast eagle crank, and I beam rods...I spun it to 7K RPM repeatedly, and made 407RWHP with it...

I now have the same crank in rods in my new motor, which will hopefully hit the 450RWHP mark.

I wouldnt waste my money on completely forged internals in a stock block. The block will ALWAYS break before the crank will, which will eat the rest of those forged EXPENSIVE pieces.


Just my $.02



EDIT: I am running All motor ONLY, use of a blower will put added stress on the crank snout, which may cause a cast crank to break.
 
Yep, the only time I would even consider running a forged crank is if a blower belt was connected to it.

Otherwise, N/A with a stock block, I would go with the cast stuff.
 
I've always wondered the same thing about kits for us 4.6L guys. The stock crank and block in our engines will take well over 600hp. It's the rods and the pistons that'll take a crap long before that.

They do offer rod and piston kits alone, but since the Modular Engines are internally balanced, you're kind of responsible for having it rebalanced on your own. When they sell the engine kit as a crank, rod and piston combination, I believe its pre balanced. Perhaps that's what's being done with the stroker kits for the OHV engines as well. I would imagine that when bought in bulk, Forged Steel cranks aren’t that much more expensive than the stock Nodular Iron ones….and it is always a nice selling feature. That’s probably why you see them included in most stroker kits....since they require a rebalance as well. :shrug: