Where can I find a lite weight flywheel?

I've got a McLeod I'd sell.

Flywheel is kinda dusty in pic. I can take a better pic without flash if you're interested. I'd like to get $250 for it. I think it has about 75 passes on it. Doesn't have any grooves in it, used a Soft-Loc clutch with it.

I also have a Liberty modified toploader, Lakewood scattershield, sistered bronze 6-puck solid hub disc, adustable McLeod 3 finger pressure plate, and a Mr. Gasket Vert-i-gate shifter if you're looking for a serious race setup.

I think it's a 164 tooth (I can check, but I'm pretty sure its 164), but it is 28oz and it is aluminum.

It should take a 10.5" or 11" clutch.

This offer is only to you steel1212, I've since found out a new McLeod aluminum flywheel is about $500.

I have a NEW HAYS Billet Steel one.
157 tooth 28oz SFI

PM me if interested.


For your setup a Steel one might be better than aluminum.

aluminum flywheels are not always best, i bought one and had the transmission out and decided not to run it because of the advice given on here and it was the best decision i made.. an aluminum flywheel has less centrifucal force than the steel ones, thus causing the engine to have to rev higher....i have a 289 that runs low 13 making a good amount of power, kinda similar to your times...and i feel you would be best off using a steel one other than aluminum...but its up to you...you might want to ask for some more advice on this topic before buying one because there are poepl on here that know a lot more about the topic at hand than i do..but im just givin ya my .02 cents

good luck

matt

MustangMatt1966 said:

aluminum flywheels are not always best, i bought one and had the transmission out and decided not to run it because of the advice given on here and it was the best decision i made.. an aluminum flywheel has less centrifucal force than the steel ones, thus causing the engine to have to rev higher....

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Uh, it revs faster, not higher. It will bog more as you don't have the inertia, but in a launching situation, this isn't always bad as it'll help you from blowing the tires off. It probably depends on your operating rpm. The big thing I hear about whether or not to run one appears to be dependant on the weight of your car. Over about 3200#, I don't think you want to run one.

If you never ran the aluminum one, how do you know if it was the best decision?

Not trying to sell my flywheel here, and I'm not sure at what point an aluminum wheel is better than a steel one, but I ran this flywheel behind my race only 289. It was in a 3000# '69 Mach I with a Jerico and a 5.67 gear on 9x30 slicks. We'd launch the car at 6400 and shift at 8000, crossed at 8000 as well. I bought it because I asked my chassis guy what to get and he said to get an aluminum one. He also told me to get a Offy 360 tunnel ram and a pair of 660's (1320 cfm on a 289?!?). I trust him because he's usually right. I asked him what the car would run the first time we took it out and he said 13.50. It ran a 12.51 so he was wrong that time I'm not racing sbf's anymore, I'm going big block with an FE and I have an aluminum flywheel for it as well. The big block will be in a '63 Fairlane and I'm hoping to keep the full weight uner 2800#.

But I do agree with Matt, ask someone that races a lot more than either of us about what to run. Also, ask a lot of people and sort of take what everyone says and put it in one lump and see what the overall tendancy is, that usually works for me.

For whatever it counts, I read an article in PHR stating aluminum is a change for the positive on a street driven car. I have always used steel since that what has always been recommended to me. But to me it makes more logical sense that an aluminum fly is better than steel except maybe for those 11sec and under cars.

I dunno, I think it still has to do with weight. My buddy has a '64 Falcon that runs mid 8's, weighs about 2500# with him in it with a 489" all aluminum FE and a Lenco and he's running an aluminum flywheel. The Lenco is a pretty old one though, 4-speed and it has a lot of parasitic drag, he thinks it's robbing about 225hp, I dunno if that has anything to do with it.

I still can't figure out why aluminum flywheels cost so much. I got my Fidanza 157t on sale from some Ebay store for something $275-290 shipped. SFI approved and came with counterweights for 0, 28, and 50oz options. Luckily I also got a McLeod scattershield for a lot less than that...

As far as a power gain, it would depend on what kind of dyno/application was used. An inertia dyno relies on the engine accelerating a mass over time. A brake dyno just applies a load, constant or not. An aluminum should increase some power during rpm change, but not steady state.

Unfortunately I changed too many things at the same time on my roller 302 to accurately evaluate the change made by the aluminum. i haven't been to the strip, either.

a heavier flywheel gives you alot of inertial torque, which is good for street driving and launching at the strip, especially with a small block. A 30lb flywheel at 1000 rpm has a lot more energy than a 10lb flywheel at 1000 rpm. Personally, I'd only run aluminum if it were a high rpm motor with A LOT of gear. For street or street/strip, I'd go steel.