Where did you run braided fuel line??

[jasonn]

Got a 70 fastback. Just wondering where you guys did or would suggest running the fuel lines. I will run an electric pump from the cell in the back to the front with a return regulator. then return line back to the cell. I moved the battery to the trunk along with the regulator and solenoid. So I was going to put the regulator right where the regulator was originally. So would you run the lines up and over the shock tower? Towards the front and around the radiator support and along the frame or up and around the outside of the shock tower?? I think you have to run fuel line on the outside of the frame correct?? Anybody have any pics?? Thanks much!!

 

[FORCED2DV8]

Yes i ran it on the outside of the frame rail, pretty much where the original hard line was routed, i bought some metal fasteners with the rubber inserts. to hold it in place looks clean, sorry no pics.

 

[302 coupe]

diddo, run it where the stock line went. When you get to the front, route it thru the hole where the stock line came thru the inner fender to the engine compartment. Regulator mounting is up to you, I like to put them fairly close to the carb but thats just me. Are you running EFI? Just curious why you're doing the return line. Normally they're not needed unless you're using a high pressure pump, which would be incorrect for a carb'd setup anyway.

BTW, is this for the tubbed car? Any updates?

 

[rbohm]

run braided fuel line where ever you need a flexible line. otherwise run steel line.

 

[jasonn]

diddo, run it where the stock line went. When you get to the front, route it thru the hole where the stock line came thru the inner fender to the engine compartment. Regulator mounting is up to you, I like to put them fairly close to the carb but thats just me. Are you running EFI? Just curious why you're doing the return line. Normally they're not needed unless you're using a high pressure pump, which would be incorrect for a carb'd setup anyway.

BTW, is this for the tubbed car? Any updates?

Yea, this is for the tubbed one. I had the motor out and found out it had a flat cam. Put a different cam in and all new gaskets. Bearings looked good. Front suspension was shot. Put a new kit in. Blasted it down to the frame from the front of the doors forward. Found out the cowl was rusted through, so I cut the top of it off to get access. Fabbed up a new piece of metal and welded everything in at an angle (not like the flat factory piece) so water will shed. por-15'd everything with seam sealer. Welded top back on - with the top cowl piece nobody will every know I was in there. Got everything all painted up and ready to put the motor back in. Running a carb. Everybody I talked to said to go with a return style regulator just cause it's so much easier on the pump. They will last much longer and also fuel pressure is so much easier to set and it does not spike. I would like to run the line on the passenger side just because that is where the carb inlets are and I was going to put the ignition on the drivers side. But I guess I can change that easy enough if needed. Thanks much for the suggestions.

 

[302 coupe]

sounds good, lots of progress. It sounds like you're gonna run it with the cleveland for awhile, should be fun. For the fuel pump, you're correct. A return style regulator is easier on the pump than a deadhead would be, but there are lots of people running returnless systems with no problems. Most people just don't want the hassle/cost of adding the extra line. Take the infamous holley blue for example, its rated to 14 psi and and is supplied from holley with a deadhead regulator. Consider yourself going the extra mile, and theres nothing wrong with that

 

[Edbert]

Hard lines are usually preferred, steel may be overkill, I used aluminum. Having a vert I steered clear of the driveshaft tunnel, a large aluminum shaft and a pair of 2.5 inch pipes made it tight and I wanted to be away from high heat sources. My hard line goes up over the rear axle just inside the rear frame rail. It 'jumps the gap' between the two rails by being attatched to the SFC, and goes into the engine compartment via the factory location. I used the braided lines to connect from there to the pump and from the pump to the fuel log.

 

[jasonn]

Can you go from hard line to braided with -an fittings?

 

[Tim65GT]

A standard braided hose end like this:

Would mate to a flared tube end with this:

and this:

http://www.russellperformance.com/auto/adapt/images/15-1.jpg

Maybe somone who has done this can say where they purchased their parts, 'cause Russell only sells "packs".

 

[302 coupe]

you can with aluminum line. If you want to connect steel line to AN fittings, you need to use what is called a JIC fitting. Same thread and flare as AN, but they are steel for use with steel line. You connect the JIC fitting to AN just like you would a regular AN fitting.

 

[Edbert]

I have one of those on mine, I used Earl's fittings throughout. They are 100% reliable for carbuerator applications without a flare, EFI applications require a flare since the pressure in the line is so high.

 

[steel1212]

302 where would you get JIC fittings and would it be 5/16 for stock 65 fuel line? I want to connect my 5/16 fuel line with braided to my pump instead of the rubber hose.

 

[Edbert]

Just an opinion but if you are replacing the entire fuel line from tank to carb I'd upgrade to a 7/16 or even 1/2 inch line. Two to five years from now you may want to install a firebreathing motor and you'll already have the fuel supply ready, other wise you're gonna have to replace that 5/16 line since it will not support much HP at all (opinions vary widely but 350fwhp seems to be a consensus...sorta). I was told I'd need the 7/16 to support 450fwhp, so I used 1/2 (-8AN) throughout the fuel system.