Where is the TFI module located?

ponyboy19

Founding Member
May 24, 2000
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I am thinking I'm going to replace this along with the PIP due to some issues that I think may not be tune related and was wondering where the TFI is located on the 94/95's. I admit I haven't looked for it but was hoping to save some time. And since my knowledge of the electrical compents are limited can someone direct me to the PIP as well. Thanks..
 
TFI is on the pass fender under the air inlet (real close to the strut tower).

PIP is the stator inside the dizzy.

TFI is for spark, and PIP is for base spark and injector timing.

Good luck.
 
thanks.. I have a brand new 400 mile old MSD distributor so I guess the PIP shouldn't be an issue. I'll just throw on a new TFI. The car is still "for the most part" untuned and besides hot start issues I've been seeing where once up to temp it will stutter, tach will jump, and then it will just die. Wait a couple hours later and she'll fire up and do it all over. Thanks..
 
Sounds good. A parts store can bench test the TFI for ya (if you have it done, I would have them test it several times in a row. This really heats that sucker up, to simulate the temps it is at when the car dies).

as for checking stuff out, when it wont start, if you have injector pulsing (checked with Noid light, etc), that suggests the PIP is functional. I would look at the TFI or coil.

Good luck.
 
Yeah i'll have to have them check it out.. that's the issue, it's fine until it reaches full temp then things get screwy. I have a partial chip burnt but the car is EXTREAMLY phat at idle so I'm not sure if it's a fuel issue or a TFI issue. If it was just hot starts I would pawn it off as something that needs tweaked with the chip but it actually dies. I remember a couple years ago (when the car was last running :( ) with my old combo it would sometimes die going down the road then fire up a few minutes later. Hence the reason I think I will just change it out to eliminate the possiblity of it being an issue. Now though when it does it, it won't start for a couple of hours and if there is any temp left in it, the car acts like it's flooded before it finally starts. So I think I may have a couple issues going on, one with the sensor, and one that needs to be dealt with through the tune. I need to get it back to the dyno to finish it up. thanks..
 
Next time it dies on you, you can try putting a bag of something frozen from the freezer on it and see if that supercools it down fast. If it starts again faster than normal, that suggests you found the issue. :)
 
I replaced it and it didn't fix the problem.. Car runs very rich at idle and after about 5 minutes it's like you turn the key off. It will try to start but acts like it's flooded out, which it probably is. It's gettting good spark even though it won't start so I'm guessing it's a tuning issue that needs to be worked out on the dyno. Something else to look at next trip :) I just thought that given past issues with it that it may be the problem. Now I know... thanks..
 
Sounds like your rich condition is spraying the spark. Lean it out and see if it cures those issues. This happened to me before to the point where I was spraying fuel out of the tailpipes. My problem was the fuel pressure vacuum line fitting was cracked. ECC tried to compensate by sending a fuel flood. Car behind me were not happy. I had the James Bond oil slick mod but with fuel.
 
Yeah Vib I think your right. Although no James Bond thing going on here :) I think the 42's are spraying way to much fuel at part throttle and need to be adjusted. The car supposedly is slightly on the lean side at WOT but other wise it's obvious that it's dumping the fuel to it down low. I'll just have to wait until I get a hold of my tuner and get the car back to him. A blown water pump gasket and a shower of antifreeze all over the place ended my last dyno session early :(