Engine Where To Go With This Motor

Clean89pony · May 18, 2015

Let me know if there is anything else that might help your input.

FoxMustangLvr · May 18, 2015

Wow, they put the PCV valve in the passenger VC. Did they cap the vacuum line on the PCV? Maybe somebody else could chime in on this one but IMO you should get new VC's. The Cantons are a nice piece and won't break the bank. Please hook up the EGR lines from the heater tube to the EGR spacer. Go to any local auto parts store and get some hose for it and cut it to fit.

Mustang Aluminum Valve Covers Polished (86-93) 5.0

Clean89pony · May 18, 2015

The egr lines should go to the line that is capped with the bolt in it right?

FoxMustangLvr · May 18, 2015

Yes, there will be two of them, one each side of the EGR spacer on the heater tube. They will both be capped.

Clean89pony · May 18, 2015

Why would they do this? And would it cause a surging issue? Or the pcv in the vc? Are these big time no no's?

FoxMustangLvr · May 18, 2015

Edit.....I'm not sure how well the PCV valve would function in the valve cover. It needs to vent the block pressure and I don't know if placing it in the VC is adequate. I don't think the EGR coolant lines being capped off will cause anything but your incoming air to be hotter which might effect HP a little.

If it were my car, my time and my $$ i'd.....
1) get correct valve covers with the oil filler neck on the passenger side
2) connect the TB tube to the filler neck barb
3) return the PCV valve back to it's original location and run the correct vacuum tube to the intake manifold
4) hook up the lines from the heater tube to the EGR coolant spacer (2 of them)
5) If you still have surging problems then go here Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist" | Mustang Forums at StangNet

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Anyone else have any thoughts? Just trying to get as much input as possible. FoxMustangLvr, the egr usually goes on the front of the intake right? Ill have to double check that it has the spot for it. Seems like there was maybe a line coming out of there also. Ill get the line and take care of the spacer hoses asap. Going to get a code reader tonight so hopefully it will help me out with being able to figure out the surge issue...

2000xp8 · May 19, 2015

I too would put the valve covers and vacuum system back to stock.
What kind of meter and injectors are you running?

For sure i'd lose that bbk intake for a stock box and tube with a k&n panel filter.

The gt40x crate engine is very good. It just isn't a max power engine. I'd leave it as is. Don't start pulley things apart, while it's not going to break any records it's still a nice engine. Only thing on it I would personally change is i'd put a gt40 tubular intake on it.
A vortech can easily put this engine at and above 500rwhp. My buddy used to use them all the time for people that didn't want to wait for engines to be built. Last one I saw made 513rwhp (cobra intake).

Forget the tuning, not only does this engine not need it, it has little value in this situation. And you never goto the dyno to fix a problem.

FoxMustangLvr · May 19, 2015

Clean89pony said:

Clean89pony said:
FoxMustangLvr, the egr usually goes on the front of the intake right?

Your engine already has the EGR, it's on the back of the TB spacer next to the brass nipple for the coolant line. You can see it in your picture above, it has the white vacuum line running to it. All you need to do is run the black hoses from the heater tube and it should be complete.

This is the factory location for a PCV valve the the vacuum line that runs under the upper intake.

You need to remove your upper intake anyways to replace those terrible VC's so while that's off it will be really easy to install the new PCV in it's correct location and run the proper vacuum line beneath the upper intake manifold. You will need to purchase a new upper to lower intake manifold gasket for your Holley intake. Should be $12-$16.

As 2000xp asked, what MAF & injectors do you have? They have to me matched!! Typically orange colored injectors are the stock 19# (too small for you car now), blue is 24# which is what you should have, red is 30#. Your MAF should be programmed to a specific injector size, if it isn't your car could run poorly. This is a common mistake.

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

They are 19s and Im unsure of the MAF. Is there anywhere I could see the size one the MAF as to what size it is? The car is running SUPER rich. Smokes a bit and coughs and sputters at constant speed a bit. Under WOT it pulls hard like it should. Or seems to. If it runs for more than a min or two in the garage, door open of course, it will burn the hell out of your eyes. According to the order it came with those VCs. Why would ford send it out that way? Weird. Anyways, ill look into all of that tonight after work. Any ideas on where to get injectors for a fair price? Cjponyparts, american muscle, latemodelrestoration? Idk where else to look? Thanks for the help guys. Worst part is, change this stuff and still have to figure out why it surges. Have a feeling it wont change much in that category but sounds like it needs done. Why get rid of the bbk intake? Is there a problem with them? Remember, I bought it JUST as it sits..so i have no clue. Other than receipts.

2000xp8 · May 19, 2015

Crate engines vary in use. I've see the x engine come with fox, sn95 and even explorer parts. The main thing is the long block. Trade the covers to someone for stock foxbody covers.
I'm surprised there isn't clearance issues with the TB, many times tall covers need an intake spacer which is also prone to causing a vacuum leak if not done properly.

Most cold air intakes on a fox are crap, other than Anderson ford power pipes. The bbk is metal, which get's hot. I wouldn't put it on the priority list, but I would ditch it.

Look for used 24's and you will need a pro m or pmas meter meant for 24's. It will have to be a meter meant for a fox, the cheapest and most common is the bullet, used they are around $100. Make sure the calibration is for 24lb injectors.
The meter helps control the mixture, this could be why it runs so rich.

Take a picture of the top of the meter sensor.

Nothing on the car is terrible, but it does show signs of just being slapped together with random parts.
It's not going to take a whole lot of money to get right.

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Hope it doesnt. I mean...i did only pay 5500 for the car. Hopefully it was worth it. I dont mind throwing money at it but cant throw as much as I paid for the car INTO the car right now. LOL. The quote for the dyno was 600 with the chip and tuning. Seemed a bit high but id LOVE if I can get this thing running right for around there without making the trip to Oklahoma

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Ok, so I know Im supposed to assume the seller is lying, even though I know who they are. But, he just told me the MAF is calibrated to stock. Which would be 19s right? That being said...and ASSuming that he is telling the truth, still not going to run right for this set up? And if its running rich, how are the injectors inadequate? Not arguing in ANY way what so ever! Just asking so I can understand since I'm quite the newb here. Lol

2000xp8 · May 19, 2015

Well, if it's a stock meter it will work with 19's, so will a couple of others.
I've been doing this over 20 years now, tons of of pushrod setups, not one was dyno tuned and they all ran fine, most of which were substantially more potent then your setup.
If you want to have it tuned, go ahead, but don't think it's the solution to any problems.

While you probably can get by with 19's, 24's are the right injectors for your car.

FoxMustangLvr · May 19, 2015

19# injectors with the CORRECT MAF would make your engine run OK however it'd be a little lean, not rich. Assuming you have the correct MAF to match your injectors the rich issue is being caused by something else. Check your fuel pressure. I however WOULD NOT trust the guy that says its the correct MAF. Do your homework and look up the part # to verify.

Do the surging idle check list, you could have a vacuum leak somewhere. With 24# injectors and correct matching MAF meter calibrated for 24# injectors your car should run pretty good assuming all else is well (which it's not).

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

So if I take better, close up pics will that help anyone tell if the pcv valve routing will work or if they were just dumb? Hate to mess with VCs if I dont have to right now. That said I DO want to ensure the car runs right. Thanks again guys for all of your input.

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Ok guys...got a code reader...here goes...codes are...19,85, lots of repeats of these, then 10,33, 96, (multiple 33 and 96) so....lets here it

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Heres the mass air.

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