Engine Where To Go With This Motor

Clean89pony · May 19, 2015

Ok so, 33 is an EGR code. Cant remember the others. If I go with 24# injectors and a new MAF, what size or style should I get? I figure if Im pulling the intake...why not do the injectors while I'm there...right? Could the EGR failure code be cause by something else? Could the EGR cause a surging issue? throttle body is suppose to be a 70 or 75mm. Think it was 70. So..that said what size MAF should I get? I am trying to figure it out to order it ASAP and maybe find it closer to do all of it this weekend. Thanks again guys

2000xp8 · May 20, 2015

24's lb injectors
Easiest solution would be to buy a pro m or pmas 75mm bullet for a meter. Going larger will probably mean purchasing other parts to fit the meter on there effectively.

The egr valve is probably just jammed up with crap, take it off and clean it.

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Ok will clean it. What parts will I need. Probably cant swing replacing the bbk intake right now with everything else. Going to get some new VCs and reroute pcv and lines. Any of those other codes mean anything to anyone that might be thw issue?

2000xp8 · May 20, 2015

I'm not much of a codes guy, the others will have to answer that for you.

I will say though, make sure to use rubber gaskets for the vc's, not cork.

89oem · May 20, 2015

The MAF looks stock - at least the picture you took, the 55 on the shorter sequence indicates 55mm.

Personally Id leave the MAF, TB and injectors until I fixed the easy stuff... You want a solid base to build from.

Fix all the lines like @FoxMustangLvr suggested.

If that is the PCV valve in the valve cover instead of the lower back intake, Id bet your sucking oil through there like a straw.

Id fix the vacuum lines, TB cooling lines and remove and thoroughly clean the MAF and TB, the MAF and stuff connected to the TB is a major contributor to surge, bad idle, and other odd engine scenarios as they pretty much control everything including the PCM AF data.....

For awesome diagrams go to www.veryuseful.com

FoxMustangLvr · May 20, 2015

@Clean89pony

I pretty much agree with @89oem for the most part. I however think you should upgrade the MAF and fuel injectors just because you'll be in that area anyways with the upper intake off when replacing the valve covers. On another note, since the P.O. didn't bother to upgrade the stock MAF and 19# injectors then you likely have a stock fuel pump. You'll want to go ahead and pick up a new 190lph or 255lph puel pump kit to help deliver more fuel.

@jrichker for codes

Clean89pony said:
Ok guys...got a code reader...here goes...codes are...19,85, lots of repeats of these, then 10,33, 96, (multiple 33 and 96) so....lets here it

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Thanks @89oem. Going to pull the intake and all asap. Not sure if all the parts will be here by then. Looking at injectors, they say with the adapters that you need a spacer. Looking at the ones on LMR. I think I might do the injectors and MAF while im at it just because it will all be apart anyways. But..if I need a spacer..any recommendations? Or should I go with a different set of injectors? The pcv valve is moving asap and those canton VCs on LMR are on clearance for 120. Are they decent enough or junk? At least I can add oil lol.

FoxMustangLvr · May 20, 2015

I have the Canton VC's and I think their pretty nice, especially for the price.

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Nice and I believe from the pic of them they have the vacuum line port on the side of the filler tube also right? (which it sounds like I need lol

FoxMustangLvr · May 20, 2015

Yes, it has the barbed fitting in the filler neck. The screw for the baffle they supplied suck. Read my review on the LMR page (you'll see my engine pic) and you'll see the remedy.

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Thanks @FoxMustangLvr!

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Think ill order them tonight. Maybe the maf and injectors. @2000xp8 what parts will I need to adapt the 75mm maf to the existing set up. This is about 700 im spending. Cant afford to drop the money on another filter and box or anderson right now. May still need other parts even after swapping these and cleaning everything and rerouting the lines and relocating the pcv. Does anyone know those codes and the coinsideing parts to remedy those issues?

FoxMustangLvr · May 20, 2015

Five.Oh : 1987-1993 Foxbody Mustang EEC-IV Error Codes

jrichker · May 20, 2015

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal changes. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1.5 ohm.

Backside view of the computer wiring connector:

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.

connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connnect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).

apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

if engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
if not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

So i know im a newb but curiosity killed me and i looked uo pcv valves in valve covers..to see how many people have done this. According too quite a few mechanic sites.thats the most common spot they put them. Is it just mustangs that have issues with that? Just curious.

2000xp8 · May 20, 2015

The 75mm should bolt or at least pipe clamp right where you have your current meter. Probably have to stuff it in there a bit, but most of the extra size is made up by being thing all the way around.
The blue 24's shouldn't need adapters or spacers (if that was what you were talking about).

If the parts are new, I wouldn't worry much about confusing or making anything worse. Used, well that could be a crapshoot, but meters and injectors generally don't go bad often.

For troubleshooting purposes, the vacuum and pcv system is probably better off stock, while there are other ways to do things, you will need to know people that have done it another way to know what is right and wrong.

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

@2000xp8. These are what I found..Mustang 24lb Fuel Injector Kit w/ Adapters (86-04)

FoxMustangLvr · May 20, 2015

Clean89pony said:
@2000xp8. These are what I found..Mustang 24lb Fuel Injector Kit w/ Adapters (86-04)

Those are the EV6 style for the 99-04 Mustangs so you need the adapters. Our style is the EV1 and LMR sells those too but are a little more expensive. Look for a good used set of EV1 injectors. I bought mine for $100 for 30#.

Also when ordering from LateModelResto make sure you use the forum discount at checkout, saves 6%!

Discount code GVMWJ4GQ

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Nice! Thanks @FoxMustangLvr

Clean89pony · May 20, 2015

Alright...order placed. I have new VCs, the ev6 24lb injectors, the spacer, the MAF, and I am going to buy new vacuum lines to replace all of the old ones and clean it all while I have it apart. Hope you guys dont think im a complete idiot. Lol 700 bucks later. Itll be here tuesday. Thanks for your help thus far

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