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where to install temp sensor for electric fans

  • Thread starter Thread starter rolandj
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2011
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rolandj

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Apr 13, 2011
#1
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #1
I purchased a be cool kit with electric fans and started working on it yesterday. I see there is a temp sensor that threads in somewhere. The directions are very vague about where it goes only saying it goes into the head. Can anyone enlighten me as to where that gets threaded into thanks.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
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Apr 13, 2011
#2
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #2
Nearly impossible to actually put into the head...

The easiest place is the extra port in the front or rear of the lower intake manifold, otherwise you can drill the top section of the Thermostat housing and install it there.
 
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rolandj

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#3
  • Apr 13, 2011
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Rick 91GT said:
Nearly impossible to actually put into the head...

The easiest place is the extra port in the front or rear of the lower intake manifold, otherwise you can drill the top section of the Thermostat housing and install it there.
Click to expand...

thats what i figured it sounded absurd . I tried it in thermostat housing but the sensor is too long. where is the extra port on the lower intake manifold. I am running gt40. thanks
 

mustangmutt

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Apr 13, 2011
#4
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #4
The factory Mustang intake has two threaded ports on the rear of the intake. One is used for the coolant hose that goes to the EGR spacer. The other one is on the driver side rear and is plugged off from the factory. I used that one. But when I changed to the 97' Explorer intake I had to drill and tap a hole in the same place.
 
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rolandj

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#5
  • Apr 13, 2011
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are there any ports on the gt 40 one.
 
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rolandj

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#6
  • Apr 13, 2011
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what about a shorter temp sending unit? the one be cool supplies is long. if it was shorter it would work in the threaded part by the thermostat.
 

Beasty306GT

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Dec 19, 2002
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Apr 13, 2011
#7
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #7
you can get a thermostat housing with threads already in it from autozone for 10 bucks
 

mustangmutt

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Apr 13, 2011
#8
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #8
rolandj said:
are there any ports on the gt 40 one.
Click to expand...



NO, see the two flat spots in the casting just in front of the rear bolt holes? You will have to drill and tap one of them for the switch if you cannot use the T'stat housing.


 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#9
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #9
You could also try using a hose coupler kinda like this one (choose the appropriate size for your application):

Auto Meter 2283 - Auto Meter Radiator Hose Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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rolandj

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#10
  • Apr 13, 2011
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HISSIN50 said:
You could also try using a hose coupler kinda like this one (choose the appropriate size for your application):

Auto Meter 2283 - Auto Meter Radiator Hose Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Click to expand...

that may work thanks. I wonder if there is an extention for t stat housing to raise it up a lil bit?
 

Beasty306GT

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#11
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #11
u can use a 3/8 close brass nipple with a 3/8 brass coupling it should bring the sensore up where it needs to be...or you can get one of these Auto Meter
 
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rolandj

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#12
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #12
Beasty306GT said:
u can use a 3/8 close brass nipple with a 3/8 brass coupling it should bring the sensore up where it needs to be...or you can get one of these Auto Meter
Click to expand...
I like this idea. thank you
 
O

oldfox

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Feb 19, 2009
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Apr 25, 2011
#13
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #13
you may have a 1/2 pipe thread if the holes look to small Auto meter makes an adapter part 2263
and this will also take up some of the long censor. you can check it out at summit racing's web sight
Then it will fit in the thermostat housing from auto zone
 

f8tlfiveo

My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Aug 8, 2007
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Apr 25, 2011
#14
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #14
I had trouble putting mine in the t stat housing.. The fan wouldn't turn on fast enough. Your better off putting it the intake like previously stated. You will have to take the intake off to drill and tap but it works better cause the sensor is actually reading the engine temp all the time instead of having to wait for the thermostat to open.
 

jrichker

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#15
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #15
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

 

HISSIN50

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#16
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #16
jeepguy00 said:
I had trouble putting mine in the t stat housing.. The fan wouldn't turn on fast enough. Your better off putting it the intake like previously stated. You will have to take the intake off to drill and tap but it works better cause the sensor is actually reading the engine temp all the time instead of having to wait for the thermostat to open.
Click to expand...

With a conventional on/off fan controller, the fan should not come on till the temp is at least 10*F higher than the stat's fully-open temp (i.e. for balanced 180 t-stat, the fan would come on at 200-195 and go off at 190-188*).

There's too much hysteresis to space them closer together. And thus, the fan will never be on unless the t-stat is fully open anyhow (and if the stat doesn't open, the fan ain't gonna help anyhow).
 
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rolandj

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May 16, 2011
#17
  • May 16, 2011
  • #17
well finally got sensor in i used a cpoupling w a nipple in the therm housing. On to the next issue. Anyone have a prob w the electric fans being close to the supercharger pulley? and second I need hold downs for rad anyone one know where to get a set ? I dont know what I did w stock ones or if they would even work. I had a polished one piece rad hold down but with the electric fans the top surface is smooth and no place to hook onto. you think for $1800 they would give you hold downs
 
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IN2FORD

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May 17, 2011
#18
  • May 17, 2011
  • #18
I have mine in the t-stat housing and works great. Had you put it in the rear of the intake it would take a while for the fans to kick in. I have an autometer temp gauge running off of the front port and the factory gauge off of the rear port. The factory gauge is always much slower to come up to temp.

Barry
 
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