Which aluminum raditor/fan combo for 68 FB?

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

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Massachussetts

Apr 24, 2006

#1

• Apr 24, 2006

• #1

I'm nearing the finish line with my 347/T5 project and am looking for suggestions on an aluminum radiator and electric fan setup. I am having trouble fininding something reasonably priced for a 68. The only ones I am finding are from Griffin and Be Cool, but both are pretty pricey. I really don't want to do any cutting to the radiator support either. Lastly, I already have an aluminum water pump and need to stick with the original style passenger side hose. Am interested to hear what others are using for their 68 with similar setup. Thanks in advance!

 

bartman

Member

Jan 2, 2004

76

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7

FL

Apr 24, 2006

#2

• Apr 24, 2006

• #2

My Dad has a 68 vert. He put a PWR looks and works great fit right in. I think it came out of Australia via CA. It was cheaper than some of ther others. Although if you are running an auto trans you will have to use a seperate trans cooler.
http://www.pwr-performance.com/auto_main.htm
PWR Performance Products

 

C

C0V3R

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Feb 14, 2003

524

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Australia

Apr 25, 2006

#3

• Apr 25, 2006

• #3

I just bought one from hotrods USA. Quality looks great and it should just drop right in.

The PWR's are supposed to have some fancy patented textured core design which cools better than most other radiators. I couldnt justify the expense difference.

The one I got was a northern 5137 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Radiat...ryZ33602QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

1

29

Massachussetts

Apr 25, 2006

#4

• Apr 25, 2006

• #4

Thanks for the response. How does the Northern unit mount? Did it come with brackets, did you buy them seperate or did you fab them? Also, any pics of it installed?

 

68converted

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Nov 19, 2003

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Colorado

Apr 25, 2006

#5

• Apr 25, 2006

• #5

I did the Northern route, and it fit fine. Had to use a very thin electric fan because of the thickness of the radiator. Quality is ok but I have noticed that over the past 6 months, white mineral spots have been sprouting near the welds. I hope to have the car started up in two weeks so the heat may get rid of it, along with a good wash down.

 

jcode68

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Jul 15, 2003

892

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Massachussetts

Apr 25, 2006

#6

• Apr 25, 2006

• #6

68converted,
How much room did it leave between the radiator and water pump pulley? Are you using stock WP pulley or something like a March pulley (that's what I am using)? I would think at least a couple of inches between the pulley and electric fan is needed. What fan did you go with? I have been hearing good things about Spal brand.

 

R

Robdogg67

New Member

Dec 23, 2002

148

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Seattle/Tacoma, WA

Apr 25, 2006

#7

• Apr 25, 2006

• #7

The Summit brand -Northern 26" Al. radiator would be perfect, it's only $160, the quality is awesome and it will polish up nicely. You'll have to make/buy some saddle mount lower brackets but no biggie.

From my research the 16" dia. Spal or Zirgo 3300cfm fans are both good choices but I'm not sure of the clearance required.

 

B

bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

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77

lubbock, texas

Apr 25, 2006

#8

• Apr 25, 2006

• #8

you only need about 3/4" clearance and can usually get by with about 1/2". personally i would run about 1" (or more) if possible

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

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36

Macon, Ga.

Apr 26, 2006

#9

• Apr 26, 2006

• #9

I have less than 1/4" clearance (maybe closer to 1/8") and have zero problems. Northern radiator, milodon alum. pump, stock pulley, elec. fan acting as a puller. I use to run the fan in front of the radiator as a pusher when I was using the stock radiator, it worked fine. Everybody said it was better to mount the fan behind the radiator, I don't think it makes any difference. I tried both ways on the same radiator and there was no change. Be sure you have the polarity and fan blade oriented properly for the way you run the fan. I use a cheap 16" elec fan from autozone, a 180 thermostat, adjustable fan controller, and the car never breaks the 180 mark, regardless of outdoor temp or traffic. It cools so well that the fan will actually cycle on/off while sitting in traffic.

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

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Massachussetts

Apr 26, 2006

#10

• Apr 26, 2006

• #10

Robdogg67 said:

The Summit brand -Northern 26" Al. radiator would be perfect, it's only $160, the quality is awesome and it will polish up nicely. You'll have to make/buy some saddle mount lower brackets but no biggie.

From my research the 16" dia. Spal or Zirgo 3300cfm fans are both good choices but I'm not sure of the clearance required.

Click to expand...

I haven't found a Summit (Northern brand) radiator listed for a 68 Mustang, do you have a part number? Is it the right config, passenger side downflow? Also, still hoping to see some pics of a 68 setup if anyone's got some

 

6

67scodegt

New Member

Feb 18, 2006

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Apr 26, 2006

#11

• Apr 26, 2006

• #11

I bought one from Hot Rods USA for my 67. I could not close the hood. Sent it back and bought a Griffin.

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

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Colorado

Apr 26, 2006

#12

• Apr 26, 2006

• #12

jcode68 said:

68converted,
How much room did it leave between the radiator and water pump pulley? Are you using stock WP pulley or something like a March pulley (that's what I am using)? I would think at least a couple of inches between the pulley and electric fan is needed. What fan did you go with? I have been hearing good things about Spal brand.

Click to expand...

There is about 3/4" of room from the water pump centering pin and the fan (Standard EdleBrock for a 91). The only part # on the radiator I could find was (9601). It is 25 1/2"W x 19"H x 3" (at the side tanks, 2 1/2" at the fins) Flex-a Lite Low Pro #110 for the fan, and it looks cool.

 

C

C0V3R

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Feb 14, 2003

524

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Australia

Apr 27, 2006

#13

• Apr 27, 2006

• #13

jcode68 said:

Thanks for the response. How does the Northern unit mount? Did it come with brackets, did you buy them seperate or did you fab them? Also, any pics of it installed?

Click to expand...

No pics of it installed, because im in the middle of an engine build. You can see photos of it on my site below. http://www.302w.com

 

R

Robdogg67

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Dec 23, 2002

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Seattle/Tacoma, WA

Apr 27, 2006

#14

• Apr 27, 2006

• #14

Try the Summit 380425 or 380325, you'll have to do some creative hose management but its doable. Did mine in a 67 which is the same as yours, make or buy the lowers and get the Mustang big block upper radiator support bracket and youll be good.

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

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Massachussetts

Apr 27, 2006

#15

• Apr 27, 2006

• #15

67scodegt said:

I bought one from Hot Rods USA for my 67. I could not close the hood. Sent it back and bought a Griffin.

Click to expand...

Do you recall if it was a Northern brand, model 5137? I looked at this based on the suggestion from COV3R and the price is better etc, but he hasn't installed his yet. It's supposed to be a drop in replacement fit. I do NOT need the hassle of parts that don't fit, returns, wasted shipping etc. Dig deep into the memory banks please

68converted,
I like the look of the Flex-a Lite 110 and it is advertised as super slim. They also make a blue one, which I think would look really cool. You sure you don't have any pics you can share of your setup? Also, what did you use for radiator mounting brackets - saddle or flange? Build or buy?

Thanks:SNSign:

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

772

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16

Colorado

Apr 27, 2006

#16

• Apr 27, 2006

• #16

I will take some pics of the install in the morning. Built the bottom tray mounts and the top uses to pieces of all thread into the radiator support. I am kind of proud of how sturdy it is.... till tomorrow.

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

772

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16

Colorado

Apr 28, 2006

#17

• Apr 28, 2006

• #17

Here you go. The first is of the top connection- http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator02.jpg and the second is of how the setup looks from the back- http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator01.jpg and lastly the bottom mount (barely visable) http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator03.jpg

Hope that helps. I have turned up the fan as a test and it moves a ton of air. I am using an adjustable control, and a 180 deg therm.

 

6

68RCodeConv

New Member

Oct 2, 2003

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Houston, TX

Apr 28, 2006

#18

• Apr 28, 2006

• #18

Maybe there is a reason you are determined to have an alumimum radiator with an electric fan, but I have a 20" 4-row radiator with a shroud and the 4-blade HiPo fan on my 67 GT350 and it never has come close to overheating - not even in stop-and-go traffic in Houston in August.

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

1

29

Massachussetts

Apr 30, 2006

#19

• Apr 30, 2006

• #19

68converted said:

Here you go. The first is of the top connection- http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator02.jpg and the second is of how the setup looks from the back- http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator01.jpg and lastly the bottom mount (barely visable) http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator03.jpg

Hope that helps. I have turned up the fan as a test and it moves a ton of air. I am using an adjustable control, and a 180 deg therm.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics 68Converted, this is very helpful. Looks like a very solid install. I have a lot more to chew on now from this thread.

 

C

C0V3R

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Feb 14, 2003

524

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Australia

Apr 30, 2006

#20

• Apr 30, 2006

• #20

I'll see if I can put up some photos showing the differences between the 5137 and the stock 68 radiator. The only reason I can see that it would sit up higher is because the bottom mounts are too narrow to fit the wider 5137. I plan on removing the lower mounts.