Which cam do i use?

[hollywoodstang]

FRPP E cam or F cam or POWERMAX or TFS 1 or 2?

PLEASE NOTE THAT I HAVE AOD(autotrans) AND 4:10 GEARS.

so which one is it?

E cam(low range) or F cam(top end)???

screw it buy all of them and test it out?



i am looking at crane POWERMAX cam and FRPP E cam and F cam and TFS stage 1 and 2 cam.

i am going supercharge or turbo beginning of next year so i have to get all the parts by then.

thanks and let me know fellas

 

[hollywoodstang]

I ran an F cam on a basically stock engine. It was really fast, has lots of mid/top end to it, which you'd like if you're running such a high gear (4.11). honestly though, if you have 4.10, you'd be better suited for a high/fast revving engine. so I'd go with something different, maybe a crane cam/spring package. Comp makes more power, but crane is more reliable.

I think this makes more sense.....

so it's between

FRPP F CAM AND CRANE.....i guess

 

[Tonys96Cobra]

With your AOD I would use the E cam if you go FRPP. Or if you want a custom grind try these guys

http://flowtechinduction.com/

 

[TheRedBlur]

I think this makes more sense.....

so it's between

FRPP F CAM AND CRANE.....i guess

I tried finding you a cam but my adobe acrobat is acting up.
now, valve float at 6k is retarded if you have a 4.10 gear, you'l be shifting before you work up any good intertia. if you want to stick to a 55-5600 rpm redline, I'd suggest a 3.55 gear instead. your biggest deal is piston to valve clearance, the cam you posted the specs for will collide with your pistons. Nobody wants that. Do you have aftermarket pistons? otherwise F is as big as you can go, and even then it cuts really close, maybe you'd want a thicker head gasket for safe measure.

 

[hollywoodstang]

no i do not have aftermarket pistons as of yet. but you said earlier as long as lift is below 514. it would be ok. so crane one is 513 are they gonna touch?? u think?? the f cam spec is 512

 

[hollywoodstang]

the 1st problem is i would like to stay on HIGH END RPM RANGE. i know e cam is best for low and mid range.

The 2nd problem is i have already bought 4:10 gears. to use on my car. and i will be running it with this set up.

so the cam has to be compatible with this. and i want to see a full potantial out of my gears and cam.

e cam with 4:10 gear don't make much sense do they?

 

[Tonys96Cobra]

If you run 3.55 in your AOD, the thing will be a pig without any boost. No doubt about that. Keep in mind that its more duration that causes ptv clearance issues, not necessarily the valve lift.

 

[hollywoodstang]

cam

so i am not gonna run 3:55 gears. i am running 4:10 gears
I need to know which cam is compatiable with gt-40 1.7 roller rockers and 4:10 gears. christ....i need to know which cam is the best for these set up.

which will clear the valves!!!!

i will make it simple for all....i need the a cam which will clear valves using with 1.7 roller rockers. i am using gt-40 iron heads.

i am not using regular heads...i am using gt-40 heads!!!

anyone know the cam which is best for these set up?

thanks always

 

[fidstang]

I'd run a mid to high powerband cam with 4:10 gears. Which manufacturer, that's a choice you will have to make. It's really not the total lift but, the lift and duration that makes the cam. Split duration cams that favor the exhaust side are made for Heads that flow well on the intake but need help on the exhaust side. Cams with durations equal on both sides usually make more torque sooner, that's why you mostly see them in circle track use. Split durations have less torque down low when comparing with equal lobe lift. But, make up for it in the mid/high RPM range. That's why splits are perfect for drag racing. Do some research before you buy. Which manufacture? The all good in my book now a days, It's just of matter of what type of driver you are.

 

[fidstang]

http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.php#2003

http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php

 

[TheRedBlur]

no i do not have aftermarket pistons as of yet. but you said earlier as long as lift is below 514. it would be ok. so crane one is 513 are they gonna touch?? u think?? the f cam spec is 512

yeah, but there's some things you might not be aware of. The ford alphabet cams are "single pattern" cams. which means that the intake and exhuast lobes are identical. what crane and comp and pretty much everybody else since 1995 have been doing is making "dual pattern cams" which have seperate profiles for intake and exhuast. It makes sense considering that a dense air/fuel charge behaves differently than exhaust gasses do. the cam that you posted has an exhuast lift of I think it was .548, which is way over. there's a lot to learn about cams.

 

[TheRedBlur]

ok so check this one out. It's a comp cam.
Comp XE 270HR P/N 35-351-8
duration
INTAKE: 270
EXHUAST: 276

lift
INTAKE: .512
EXHAUST: .512

looks good to me. you'll need the proper springs or else you'll break 'em, here's the part number..
spring package:
986-16
or
2986-16 (premium spring package)

cams usually have more duration on the exhaust so as to create valve overlap, not because the exhaust ports don't flow as well. overlap is a high-RPM function, where both valves are open for a bit, just as the piston passes top dead center, it uses the exhaust pulses/sound waves to pull in more air, as the intake flow increases, the exhuast valve closes and all the air swirls in the cylinder. it increases cylinder filling. shorter durations on the intake means that more vacuum is present in the manifold, which helps computer controlled cars, they generally have a sharper opening ramp. There are many other reasons why cams are patterned the way they are, but these two characteristics are most prevelant in the cam profiles we see today.

 

[hollywoodstang]

cams again 1.7 roller rocker!!!

so i am not gonna run 3:55 gears. i am running 4:10 gears
I need to know which cam is compatiable with gt-40 1.7 roller rockers and 4:10 gears. christ....i need to know which cam is the best for these set up.

which will clear the valves!!!!

i will make it simple for all....i need the a cam which will clear valves using with 1.7 roller rockers. i am using gt-40 iron heads.

i am not using regular heads...i am using gt-40 heads!!!

anyone know the cam which is best for these set up?

thanks always

did you guys read this???

i think you guys are giving me the cam that only can be used with 1.6 roller rocker.

i am using 1.7 crane cobra roller rockers. thanks

i need 1.7 roller rocker compatiable cam.

otherwise i just keep the cobra cam that i have now. it's got good all around range and even if i supercharge it beginning of the year.
it should be able to handle it correct?

thanks again.

 

[TheRedBlur]

the cam I posted is for 1.7 rockers. you won't find a cam for 4.10 gears that will clear your stock pistons. it really limits your cam choice. btw, it's not so important what kind of rockers you use, all it does is affect what the estimated valve lift is.

 

[hollywoodstang]

reasons for why 4:10 gears are the best for N/A and supercharged mustangs

Probably the most frequently asked question on every mustang message board, gears are not debatable. A 4.10:1 ratio minimum, on a daily driven 4.6L naturally aspirated Mustang would be the way to go. I’ll get to why in a minute, but to realize why there is no debate, we must first look at what gears do.

Gears live in the rear-end, bolted to the pumpkin and driven by the drive shaft. The job of gears is to multiply the engine’s torque and transfer that to the rear wheels via the rear axles. So, with a 250 torque engine with 4.10 gears, your multiplied torque will be 1025. You might be thinking, “Why the heck do we need that much torque?” Well, the truth is, without a multiplication of torque, our cars will not move.

Most stock mustangs have 3.27 gears from the factory. I have no idea why Ford put these gears in our cars because they’re awful. Despite what some “experts” might tell you, gears will not decrease your top speed in a mustang; in fact, they’ll probably increase it. If you were to top out your car with 3.27 gears, you’ll notice that the power just stops when you shift to 5th gear. This is because you are not in the car’s power band to pull the car up to higher speeds. Not only will steeper gears allow you to pull quicker, but they’ll also keep you in your power band which will, in turn, enable you to pull stronger in 5th gear; something you could NOT do before. Other experts claim that you will lose gas mileage due to the higher RPMs that your car will now be traveling at on the highway. In reality, you’ll lose maybe 1 MPG at best.

By far, the biggest misconception out there, is that 4.10s are “too much gear” for a car. These people that tell you this are mistaken. Those people are stuck in the pushrod days where the cars can’t rev past 5500 RPMs. Our cars rev to 6000 RPMs for a SOHC and 7000 RPMs for a DOHC. Our torque comes on later than the pushrods, hence the need for the steeper gears. Sure, there are instances where you might want to get a different gear ratio if you have a power adder or are a drag only car, but be it Auto-crosser, Open Tracker, or Drag Racer, do NOT get less than 4.10 gears for a daily driven N/A Mustang.

When making the leap to a higher gear ratio, consider getting a posi-traction or limited slip differential installed at the same time as the gears in order to save time and money. You will also need an instillation kit, and it is always a good idea to replace your axle seals in the process as well. As always, ensue that you do not have a posi rear end first before ordering one of these units. This will depend on your Mustang’s year and model.

 

[just4bob50]

After getting info from stangnet and talking with the local tuners in my area I decided on the E-cam for may set up. The tuners say that the E-cam builds tq like the stock cam and doesnt bleed off boost like some other cams that work great for (NA) combo's. While it is true that the E-cam is an old pattern It is still a very good cam for street driving, makes good power and tq, has a lopey idle, but is still tuner friendly. The tuner I went to said that unless your a dedicated racer or your car rarely see's street duty the E-cam is a great all around cam.

 

[TheRedBlur]

Probably the most frequently asked question on every mustang message board, gears are not debatable. A 4.10:1 ratio minimum, on a daily driven 4.6L naturally aspirated Mustang would be the way to go. I’ll get to why in a minute, but to realize why there is no debate, we must first look at what gears do.

Gears live in the rear-end, bolted to the pumpkin and driven by the drive shaft. The job of gears is to multiply the engine’s torque and transfer that to the rear wheels via the rear axles. So, with a 250 torque engine with 4.10 gears, your multiplied torque will be 1025. You might be thinking, “Why the heck do we need that much torque?” Well, the truth is, without a multiplication of torque, our cars will not move.

Most stock mustangs have 3.27 gears from the factory. I have no idea why Ford put these gears in our cars because they’re awful. Despite what some “experts” might tell you, gears will not decrease your top speed in a mustang; in fact, they’ll probably increase it. If you were to top out your car with 3.27 gears, you’ll notice that the power just stops when you shift to 5th gear. This is because you are not in the car’s power band to pull the car up to higher speeds. Not only will steeper gears allow you to pull quicker, but they’ll also keep you in your power band which will, in turn, enable you to pull stronger in 5th gear; something you could NOT do before. Other experts claim that you will lose gas mileage due to the higher RPMs that your car will now be traveling at on the highway. In reality, you’ll lose maybe 1 MPG at best.

By far, the biggest misconception out there, is that 4.10s are “too much gear” for a car. These people that tell you this are mistaken. Those people are stuck in the pushrod days where the cars can’t rev past 5500 RPMs. Our cars rev to 6000 RPMs for a SOHC and 7000 RPMs for a DOHC. Our torque comes on later than the pushrods, hence the need for the steeper gears. Sure, there are instances where you might want to get a different gear ratio if you have a power adder or are a drag only car, but be it Auto-crosser, Open Tracker, or Drag Racer, do NOT get less than 4.10 gears for a daily driven N/A Mustang.

When making the leap to a higher gear ratio, consider getting a posi-traction or limited slip differential installed at the same time as the gears in order to save time and money. You will also need an instillation kit, and it is always a good idea to replace your axle seals in the process as well. As always, ensue that you do not have a posi rear end first before ordering one of these units. This will depend on your Mustang’s year and model.

dude, you missed the main premise of this article, the writer is talking about the 4.6 engine. there's an entire paragraph dedicated to the mentality of old school pushrod engines, where 4.10 is too much gear. I've tried to help, and you think that we're not listening, but that's not the case. your pistons limit your cam choice, you won't find an accomodating cam to fit such a steep gear. moreover, if you did, you would need to make some other changes, such as a light flywheel/driveshaft, and to do a proper job, an internally balanced crank. Your best bet is to buy a crate motor, let all the part choosing/technicalities for those who spend more time dealing with it.

 

[Foxfan88]

awesome, dont be afraid of the FRPP cams, i havent used one, but i am going to.. my new engine scheduled to go in will have the B-cam.

sure they may be old grinds, but they are PROVEN and you still see lots of stangs around with alphabet sticks in them. Sure a custom cam would be best, but think of the price, u can get a FRPP cam for CHEAP!

i picked up my B-cam for 75$!!!! beats 300+ for a custom grind... sure the custom may lead to more performance, but not enough to justify spending that much more money....

I have also heard the B-cam up close in a car and it was pretty mean sounding

 

[hollywoodstang]

cam

Our cars rev to 6000 RPMs for a SOHC and 7000 RPMs for a DOHC. Our torque comes on later than the pushrods, hence the need for the steeper gears. Sure, there are instances where you might want to get a different gear ratio if you have a power adder or are a drag only car, but be it Auto-crosser, Open Tracker, or Drag Racer, do NOT get less than 4.10 gears for a daily driven N/A Mustang.


THE 4.6 SOHC has almost same geometry as 5.0 SOHC. so is 4:10 gears is still too much gears for 5.0 engine?

anyone?

 

[TheRedBlur]

Our cars rev to 6000 RPMs for a SOHC and 7000 RPMs for a DOHC. Our torque comes on later than the pushrods, hence the need for the steeper gears. Sure, there are instances where you might want to get a different gear ratio if you have a power adder or are a drag only car, but be it Auto-crosser, Open Tracker, or Drag Racer, do NOT get less than 4.10 gears for a daily driven N/A Mustang.


THE 4.6 SOHC has almost same geometry as 5.0 SOHC. so is 4:10 gears is still too much gears for 5.0 engine?

anyone?

theres a big difference between the OHC and pushrod motors. since the cam is above teh head, the intake ports are shaped differently, you don't have to squeeze the runners between pushrod tunnels. they are generally bigger, and generate less torque at low end. moreover, the big advantage to overhead cam engines is the fact that they do not have pushrods and the lifters do not reciprocate like they do on 5.0's. meaning they rev faster and higher. valves float at lower rpms on hydraulic roller engines because the weight of not only the lifter, but the pushrod, and the point in which the rocker arm reciprocates. in other words, you have about a pound of metal per spring, when added with the inertia of a motor at 6k, it's a lot of force to be reckoned with. The cam that I have requires 320 pounds of spring pressure at max lift. I'm limited to about 6700 rpms or so. I'm about to drop in 3.73 gear.
so all in all, overhead cam motors breathe easier and rev faster, that's why a taller gear benefits it. If you put a lower gear in it, it sort of bogs the motor down, since it is not a torque generator like the 5.0 pushrod is. Put in an E or an F cam, and when you decide to go for a turbo, get a better, shorter intake manifold and some aluminum heads. Those Iron ones are just gonna make you ping a lot more.