Which Explorer lower do I need? EGR or no EGR?

Bill95 · Mar 6, 2022

I have a 1995 GT with the 5.0 (302 to us old guys). Engine is basically stock, but I am planning an upgrade to GT40 heads and a better intake. To this end, I have purchase the upper to a Cobra intake. If I am correct, I can mate this with an Explorer lower. If so, do I need the lower with the EGR? Or, do I have to have the one without? If I don't NEED the one with the EGR , can I use it if that's what I have? I bought the upper pictured, and the lower shown with the injectors and fuel rails. The picture in the middle is just for reference. I might have bought the wrong lower, but I figured the injectors were a good upgrade, and it came with the wiring harness for the injectors, which I think I can use.
If all goes well, this will end up on a CHP 347 (or 331) shortblock, in front of a 4R70W (replacing my AODE).
You, apparently have to click the picture to see all of it.
So, what do I need to make this upper work?

WhiteCobra95 · Mar 7, 2022

I think both should work since the EGR on SN95 5.0 engines is external to the intake manifold. From what I remember, the non-EGR explorer lower intakes are a bit more restrictive until you port them.

doctorj357 · Mar 9, 2022

WhiteCobra95 is correct, either lower intake will work as the 94/95 cars's EGR is external (off passenger manifold to upper intake elbow). I have the same lower for my 95 GTS with matching upper. But since I am not deleting the EGR, I still have to keep the elbow to connect it to

Bill95 · Mar 12, 2022

Because life is what it is, here's my update...
Both the seller of the Cobra upper (decided he didn't want to ship) and the Explorer lower (swears he couldn't confirm the sale) backed out. So did another seller with a lower (shipping again).
I went to my local PicknPull when they had a 97 Explorer show up. Pulled the intake (major pain, starting with the a closed hood and broken hood latch. I got the intake. I wanted the heads but was pretty tired of being there. Decided to only pull them if they were 3-bar (only early 97s). Removed enough stuff to find that they were. So, I went back to work, but was stopped by a frozen head bolt. I might go back tomorrow with a longer wrench and renewed spirit.
I know AutoZone has "rebuilt" heads for $240 each (+ $100 core), so, $680 a pair rebuilt. Time and aggravation to pull, $140 to PicknPull, and $??? to a machine shop to clean and recondition the heads, and now I'm wondering about the best path forward, or the cheapest way to get a decent set of aluminum heads.
Oh, I go the throttle body off the Explorer. Do I understand correctly that it is 65mm and a step up? Anything I need to know there?

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 12, 2022

Idk what the goal is with your car,but you will choke a stroker with those heads/intake,

Bill95 · Mar 12, 2022

Monkeybutt2000 said:
Idk what the goal is with your car, but you will choke a stroker with those heads/intake,

My goal is a mild 331 (or 347) that will run on pump regular. I want to emphasize bottom end, but hopefully not run out of breath until 6000 rpm. This will be used for a daily driver and (hopefully) occasional autocross.
I am planning on port matching the heads and intake, and was under the impression that an Explorer intake and GT40 heads were a noticeable improvement over my stock intake and E7TE heads. I also hope to work late model (4 pintle) 24# injectors into this somehow. As far as "stroker" goes, it's only an increase in displacement of 10 to 15%. These are components that I thought easily flowed that much more.
These are popular upgrades. Where do you think I am going so wrong?

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 12, 2022

Bill95 said:
My goal is a mild 331 (or 347) that will run on pump regular. I want to emphasize bottom end, but hopefully not run out of breath until 6000 rpm. This will be used for a daily driver and (hopefully) occasional autocross.
I am planning on port matching the heads and intake, and was under the impression that an Explorer intake and GT40 heads were a noticeable improvement over my stock intake and E7TE heads. I also hope to work late model (4 pintle) 24# injectors into this somehow. As far as "stroker" goes, it's only an increase in displacement of 10 to 15%. These are components that I thought easily flowed that much more.
These are popular upgrades. Where do you think I am going so wrong?

Firstly,is a cam upgrade going in as well?

Bill95 · Mar 12, 2022

I am still thinking about the cam. CHP has a 347 short block that is 50 state legal (CARB) that comes with a cam (as you know, most short blocks do not). Cam specs (I/E) are Lift .491/.509, Duration 212/222, Lobe Separation 112.
I'm open for suggestions on a cam (assuming I don't do the CHP 50 state (CARB) short block). I am also considering 1.7:1 rockers to help with breathing.
But mostly I am interested in your fairly definitive statement that the heads and intake I plan to use are insufficient and why.
From what I have read, I expect the GT 40 heads to flow at least 30% more than the E7 heads, and I believe the Explorer intake will support 400 HP, both without any port matching or work to improve flow. They seem like a great path to cheap horsepower...

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 12, 2022

I guess I'm unsure why you're even considering a stroker in the first place. I ran a GT40 headed combo over 20yrs ago,and it was torquey combo that ran 12.80s at the strip. I mean,a 331 or 347 will run good with GT40's,it's clearly not the optimal combo. As far as cam goes,very subjective. FTI or Bullet would be my source for cams.

Bill95 · Mar 13, 2022

Monkeybutt2000 said:
I guess I'm unsure why you're even considering a stroker in the first place. I ran a GT40 headed combo over 20yrs ago,and it was torquey combo that ran 12.80s at the strip. I mean,a 331 or 347 will run good with GT40's,it's clearly not the optimal combo. As far as cam goes,very subjective. FTI or Bullet would be my source for cams.

I'm considering a stroker because I have about 180,000 miles on the motor, and truthfully, if you go with quality stuff, it doesn't cost that much more than just a rebuild. Summit has Federal Mogul kits with forged pistons for about $770. CHP has a 331 (or 347) kit with forged pistons for about $1270. With the stroker there's no machine work on the crank or the forged connecting rods (which narrows the price difference), and the assembly is rated for 500 HP (which I won't hit). Add to that the torque advantage of the longer stroke and it seems like a good idea to me. Don't take this the wrong way, but so far your best criticism is "it's clearly not the optimal combo". I never thought it was the optimal combo. I thought it was an affordable upgrade I could do during a rebuild.
It sounds like you had good success with GT40 heads, I'm looking forward to the same. I really don't think an extra 29 (or 45) cubic inches will kill that.
I'll be sure to consider FTI and Bullet if I don't stay with the CHP cam.

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 13, 2022

Let's start over. Do you have a budget? Even if you do,the machine work and spring upgraded to the GT40s will quickly approach the cost of several "budget" aluminum heads on the market. And then they're still stock GT40s with no flow improvement. You could send them off to Tom Moss for porting,who is a master with the GT40 stuff. I'm not saying what you want to do is wrong or dumb either. I have a 331 and it was a great upgrade,with the right parts.

Bill95 · Mar 13, 2022

I have been looking into budget aluminum heads and would really appreciate a suggestion there. What do you see as a good deal out there? I'd love to know a couple to consider and what I am likely to pay for them..
Also, why did you go 331 over 347? I am wrestling with that right now. It's the same dollars, and the oil ring thing seems to be covered. FYI, I expect to use a 6000 rpm redline.
As for budget, I can spend as much as I want, I just really don't want to spend more than I have to. This is just a daily driver. For example, I would never send my heads off to be ported. I will live with the heads I get, except for maybe some port matching I can do myself. But, I could see budget aluminum heads that don't need a rebuild and already have upgraded springs being a good value over iron bone yard GT40s.

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 13, 2022

If it was my dollar,I'm buying AFR Enforcers. Those,Skip White,Flotek,Promaxx are all cast from the same mold apparently. I went 331, really because my buddy has one in a 66 Fairlane and it runs real well,,made north of 420hp on the engine dyno. Remember,whatever combo you decide to go with,the camshaft is the key.

7991LXnSHO · Mar 13, 2022

Better flowing heads will make more of the extra cubic inches. Think about the 347 as a 351 with a shorter deck height. The GT40 heads are good for a stock truck, but you can wake up a the Lighning lot with other heads. The 1992 351 GT40 equipped package was rated at 240 hp.

At least get the Exploder intake ported. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-Series_(ninth_generation)#SVT_Lightning

Bill95 · Mar 13, 2022

I just found some new GT40 heads, aluminum, 2.05/1.60, 62 cc chamber, 175 cc intake, .550 valve lift, bronze valve guides, ductile iron seats, $600 w/ free shipping.... That's half the price of the Enforcers (which are a good recommendation). Still, I think the GT40s might be a winner.
And, I can use some of the money I saved to have the lower ported. Monkeybutt suggested TMOSS, I'm guessing you agree.

Bill95 · Mar 15, 2022

Monkeybutt2000 said:
If it was my dollar,I'm buying AFR Enforcers. Those,Skip White,Flotek,Promaxx are all cast from the same mold apparently. I went 331, really because my buddy has one in a 66 Fairlane and it runs real well,,made north of 420hp on the engine dyno. Remember,whatever combo you decide to go with,the camshaft is the key.

Not sure how these threads come out for everyone else, but what do you think about the heads I told LXnSHO about? <GT40 heads, aluminum, 2.05/1.60, 62 cc chamber, 175 cc intake, .550 valve lift, bronze valve guides, ductile iron seats, $600 w/ free shipping....>
Also, what C/H/I did your buddy use? Actually, I guess he was carbureted, and not a roller lifter cam, So, not much of a match up. for me. But, I'm curious.
My local shop wants $292 for a V8 valve job (cleaning, cutting, assembly), $160 more if the heads need to be milled, guide work and purchasing the valve seals is extra on top of that. Add $138 (and my time and gas) to get the PicknPull heads, and the $600 (actually $605) looks like a deal.
I would think I could port match the heads and lower myself, but will consider TMOSS porting the lower instead.
I'll also ask CHP what they think about GT40 heads on their stroker short block.
I'm sure the Enforcers will outflow the GT40s, but they are at least $1,200. I'll put that $600 towards porting the lower, or getting a 4R70 to replace my AODE for the better 1st gear.

7991LXnSHO · Mar 15, 2022

Porting the lower intake better cost less than $600 with shipping.
How much power and in what RPM range do you want to make?

Bill95 · Mar 15, 2022

7991LXnSHO said:
Porting the lower intake better cost less than $600 with shipping.
How much power and in what RPM range do you want to make?

I just meant porting the lower is one of the things I could spend the money on. Similarly, $600 will not cover the Lentech 4R70W trans I am considering.
As best I can tell, TMOSS is damned near impossible to get in touch with (anyone???), but I expect about $250 to port and ship both ways.
As for power, I want it as low in the RPM range as reasonable, while not running out of breath until 6000 RPM. The proverbial broad torque curve is the goal.
I don't have a goal for total power, except more than I have now... Realistically, 300 is probably fantastic, and I would hardly know what to do with 400. Heck, I'm as worried about losing gas mileage (it is my daily driver) as I am gaining horsepower. Part of my logic for the transmission choice is a first gear (2.84) that will actually launch a little harder with 3.31 gears than my AODE (2.40) will with 3.73 gears (and hopefully get better mileage).

7991LXnSHO · Mar 15, 2022

Bill95 said:
I just meant porting the lower is one of the things I could spend the money on. Similarly, $600 will not cover the Lentech 4R70W trans I am considering.
As best I can tell, TMOSS is damned near impossible to get in touch with (anyone???), but I expect about $250 to port and ship both ways.
As for power, I want it as low in the RPM range as reasonable, while not running out of breath until 6000 RPM. The proverbial broad torque curve is the goal.
I don't have a goal for total power, except more than I have now... Realistically, 300 is probably fantastic, and I would hardly know what to do with 400. Heck, I'm as worried about losing gas mileage (it is my daily driver) as I am gaining horsepower. Part of my logic for the transmission choice is a first gear (2.84) that will actually launch a little harder with 3.31 gears than my AODE (2.40) will with 3.73 gears (and hopefully get better mileage).

If you are happy with those Lightning numbers and a little more, go with the Gt-40 combo, get the lower ported and a good cam match. I like the durability of Iron heads, even if aluminum heads have become OEM and have improved greatly.

Monkeybutt2000 · Mar 16, 2022

Do you know what model GT40s they are? There's several different ones out there. I'm questioning the 2.05 intake valve though.

Which Explorer lower do I need? EGR or no EGR?

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