true, mustangs tend to not be hard on the brakes, even though the stock brakes on the GTs are completely undersized. i have seen other cars with about 30k miles on them where the rotors are below spec, or have so much runout that turning them true will make them go below.
I was not the one who stated 40k on the rotors. That was someone else. Mine have more like 80k on them. They are pretty thin. I already ordered the Brembo blanks from TireRack so I can't turn back now.
So what is the proper break in procedure with the Hawk HPS pads and Brembo blanks? Just want to be sure I get some good life out of them and break them in properly.
After doing a little bit of research, since Brakes seem to go fairly quickly for me, I've found it's just better to replace rotors..
First off, part of the heat dissipation of brakes comes from the mass of the rotors (I believe it's, more mass takes longer to heat).. True, turning them doesn't put you in danger by any means, but the possibility of the rotors warping increases..
Did you mean, you have recently installed the HPS, or are going to install them w/ the rotor decision?
i personally hate turning rotors, its easier to just slap on new ones. i personally will use a sander on the hub surface till its shiney, then apply anti seize or a caliper lube to the surface, just so that the rotors come off nice and easy next time. definately use a caliper lube or anti seize on the backs of the pads and on the caliper slide pins. make sure everything is clean. i always clean the slides off first and put lube on ANY surface the pad touches. i personally dont like using anti seize because you end up getting silver stuff all over the place.
My Bullitt rotors (Cobra) were turned at 40k. They barely passed the thickness to get turned. They warp easily as well (always hand torque the lug nuts). The metal in rotors is not as good as it once was and they come from the factory much thinner than they used to.
i personally hate turning rotors, its easier to just slap on new ones. i personally will use a sander on the hub surface till its shiney, then apply anti seize or a caliper lube to the surface, just so that the rotors come off nice and easy next time. definately use a caliper lube or anti seize on the backs of the pads and on the caliper slide pins. make sure everything is clean. i always clean the slides off first and put lube on ANY surface the pad touches. i personally dont like using anti seize because you end up getting silver stuff all over the place.
I'd use anti-seize, just because of the heat rating, but you could use good moly-based grease.. Biggest thing though, is to make sure they're absolutely cleaned and smooth..
i like using NAPA SylGlide. my work just switched to using Permatex Caliper Lube, i havent decided wether or not i like it. only thing i like about it so far is that it has an applicator tip thing.