Which head bolts enter a water passage?

[68converted]

I know this is a very strange question, but I woke up in a cold sweat last night, wondering if I put thread sealant on the head bolts. Because I just can't for the life of me remember if I did, I am going to pull the top of the intake and valve covers to pull the bolts one at a time to check. I would prefer not to pull them all.

Anyone with this exceptional piece of knowledge would save me time. Thanks

 

[n2o-89fox]

Someone just did the same thing, If I remember correctly it is the 4 on the bottom that have anything to do with water. Also was metioned to do them in reverse of the torquing process.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

The lower bolts (ones closest to the exhaust headers) are the ones that thread into the water jackets and need sealant. So no need to pull the intake and valve covers on this one.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

^ Correct. If you pull them out, seal, and retorque them one at a time, you shouldn't hurt the headgaskets either. If you take them all out at one time, plan on new headgaskets.

 

[68converted]

You guys are the best! As always, Stangnet knowledge to the rescue.

 

[fastford91]

if you do take them out and they are torque to load bolts ! make sure you use new ones when you put them back in!

 

[Gearbanger 101]

if you do take them out and they are torque to load bolts ! make sure you use new ones when you put them back in!

Really not a big deal unless he's planning to run a pile of cylinder pressure, or has heat cycled them a couple of times already. I've used TTY bolts more than once plenty of times in the past with ZERO issue.

 

[fastford91]

Really not a big deal unless he's planning to run a pile of cylinder pressure, or has heat cycled them a couple of times already. I've used TTY bolts more than once plenty of times in the past with ZERO issue.

I'm not sure whats hes done either but if it was me i would just buy new ones ! my philosophy is do it once do it right! not that your idea wouldn't work or wont work! but for myself id rather do it the way Ive been taught and not have to do it over again! just piece of mind i guess and to each his or her own! it was just another idea among many others to toss around!

 

[irish]

If the headbolts are not arps or the equivalent, they should be.

Matt

 

[Fett]

I have to disagree, TTY bolts don't need to be replaced if you never started the motor. The flex issue the bolts go through is due to heating and cooling. If you never started the motor, you can remove them and retourque them with no problems.

I know engine builders who told me that when I went through a similar issue. One of the heads I was originally going to use was decked too far so the intake wouldn't bolt down. I had a good engine builder go over another set of heads for me and I asked him this exact question. He told me to get new head gaskets, but because the motor was never started, I could reuse the bolts with no problems. Two years of daily driving, 20+ passes on motor, and 10+ passes on spray I have no problems.

 

[Fast63]

I've had problems with non torque to yield factory head bolts and had problems.... IMO factory head bolts are only good for their first use. ARP ones are CHEAP insurance so I see no need to skimp on that.

BTW, there are 5 head bolts on the bottom, 5 on the top... Not 4.

 

[68converted]

Update: The bolts are ARP, motor has not been started yet, and I did use sealant on the bolts originally. Hate those senior moments. Thanks for the help.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Always good to check, instead of having a milkshake for the oil! I used Permatex blue on all of my studs, not just the lowers.

 

[5spd GT]

Use ARP thread sealer (or similar), or Black RTV for the lower outside bolts.

TTY bolts get a bad rep. They can be reused without an issue. Lots of "backyard" builds are done this way without issues.

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

^^^I agree completely.

 

[Shakerhood]

My Memory can be failing me but I thought is was only GM Engines that the Bolts passed through the Water Passage...