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Which oil, conventional, synthetic, or blended?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike92GT
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2006
M

Mike92GT

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Mar 10, 2006
#1
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #1
I've always used conventional oil in my cars, but the premature failure of my current engine has me thinking about going synthetic. What do you guys think? I'm not real concerned about the extra cost, as the car is an occasional driver. I hear that synthetic is much more likely to cause oil leaks. How about the blended stuff? Seems like a good compromise.
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
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Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 10, 2006
#2
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #2
Ctrl+F is your friend
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
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Charlotte, NC
Mar 10, 2006
#3
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #3
Was the blown DSS engine in your sig the one that failed? What happened to it? It's EXTREMELY rare that the oil itself is the cause of a failure.

Possible leaks is more of a potential issue when a high mileage engine that's been run on conventional oil is switched to synth. You shouldn't have that problem with a new motor provided it's sealed properly.
 

whitehorseupnorth

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#4
  • Mar 10, 2006
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Definately change to synthetic. Mobil 1 is the one of the best off the shelf oils..
 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Oct 17, 2004
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Woodward Ave.
Mar 10, 2006
#5
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #5
Run synthetic if you can. Like everyone is saying.

My car requires the dino blend (I don't want to create any more small drips)
 
M

Mike92GT

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#6
  • Mar 10, 2006
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Michael Yount said:
Was the blown DSS engine in your sig the one that failed? What happened to it? It's EXTREMELY rare that the oil itself is the cause of a failure.

Possible leaks is more of a potential issue when a high mileage engine that's been run on conventional oil is switched to synth. You shouldn't have that problem with a new motor provided it's sealed properly.
Click to expand...


Yeah, sadly it's my DSS motor that failed. Only had 40K miles and the main bearings are all wasted. Pics here:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=620919
 
M

Mike92GT

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#7
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #7
Thanks for the replies. With a new motor should I just use 10w30?
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
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18
Arlington, MA
Mar 10, 2006
#8
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #8
srothfuss said:
Run synthetic if you can. Like everyone is saying.

My car requires the dino blend (I don't want to create any more small drips)
Click to expand...

Disconnect your PCV and install a crankcase breather and try again. You'd be surprised. Both my 143K 302 and my girlfriend's 154k tbird 302 were both oil fountains until I switched to a breather system and barely a drop every few weeks now on both cars. Its amazing what a difference it makes.

You need to give that blowby a path to exit the engine.
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
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58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 10, 2006
#9
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #9
yea for breaking it in that will be fine. then after about 2K if you you decide to go to synthetic go for it.


Nice car BTW
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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Mar 10, 2006
#10
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #10
I would disagree a bit on the breather suggestion (they are only a last resort IMHO, and there are other options).
The PCV actively 'sucks' crankcase vapors out, where as a breather is rather passive, simply expelling pressure when there is enough delta.

The 'scavenging' effects of the PCV are worth it to get that corrosive vapor out of the crankcase........

Just MHO.
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Mar 10, 2006
#11
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #11
HISSIN50 said:
I would disagree a bit on the breather suggestion (they are only a last resort IMHO, and there are other options).
The PCV actively 'sucks' crankcase vapors out, where as a breather is rather passive, simply expelling pressure when there is enough delta.

The 'scavenging' effects of the PCV are worth it to get that corrosive vapor out of the crankcase........

Just MHO.
Click to expand...

This is true but in my experience, when you reach 150k or so, the amount of blowby you can get from a spirited peg of the throttle far exceeds what the pcv can "suck" through that small hose and you get a pressure spike and some oil goes bloop out the side of the engine or out the dipstick.
 
M

Mike92GT

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#12
  • Mar 10, 2006
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Yeah, I've been going back and forth about the PCV / breather thing. I actually had breathers and no PCV on my last motor, but it didn't last very long. So now I'm thinking I'm gonna go back to a PCV system with an air/oil separator. It's gonna be a new shortblock, so hopefully blow-by and leaks won't be too bad
 
M

Mike92GT

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#13
  • Mar 10, 2006
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Newly mounted air / oil separator



Old breather / catch can set-up

 

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Mike92GT

Founding Member
Jan 23, 2002
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#14
  • Mar 10, 2006
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Just to clarify, new engine break in needs to be done with conventional, right?
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Seattle
Mar 10, 2006
#15
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #15
Mike92GT said:
Just to clarify, new engine break in needs to be done with conventional, right?
Click to expand...

Yes, most will agree with that, but there is some debate. I made the switch around 3k miles.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
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Mar 10, 2006
#16
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #16
Mike, if you had it built to take synthetic from the get-go, you would know it (there is slight machining that is done differently).

Another vote for dino for a bit, then switch.
 
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