Who's got vortech's with intercoolers not aftercoolers

the boost drop is pretty bad on those things. I personally would buy a intercooler from a reputable company like spearco and just buy some intercooler pipping of ebay.

I think it's all the same sh1t. My kit is home made and it works BEAUTIFULLY. I would sacrifice 2lbs of boost ANY day for low IAT's. Engine's like low IAT's. Plus you can tweak with the spark advance a little bit. EBAY IC's FTMFW!!!!!!

BTW: my FMIC works at 100% efficiency. Meaning if it's 100^ outside I see 100^ IAT's...and that's with tons of boost.....
 
Yeah I know, but good point. The problem is the ebay core just has way too much pressure drop overall. Dyno backs this up too - 3.33" pulley it made 423/408 non-ic, then with 3.12" and intercooled it made 404/389. Roughly 2psi difference between the two setups as measured by my boost gauge. I think one thing is for the low amount of boost I'm running, a smaller, but more thermally efficient intercooler would work better - so I would have less volume of air through the intercooler at a given time (less pressure drop across the IC core), but same, or better cooling. I'm putting an 8-rib 2.90" pulley on there right now...and maybe I'll upgrade to a treadstone intercooler like SaleenGT2001 is running.

Did you advance your timing on the dyno? How about different weather conditions?

I have always been slightly suspicious of you first dyno numbers with the 3.3" pulley anyway. I also remember you track times at the time. I think you're knowledgeable and straight forward. But that's how I feel, and of course I've been wrong before. I have also noticed a few other cars that I've seen dynoed at Brennspeed, and they seemed that way to me too, but not all.

Actually the new numbers you posted seem right on to me for your mods and you might be running slightly low timimg because you were non intercooled, so it's not taking advantage of the cooler air. Are you still using a MPH tune, because I thought you had a mongoose kit? Have you returned to the track since the intercooler?

An intercooler that as no restriction is not good either. They air has to blow across something cool in order to cool itself down. My iats where low and that's the most import part. Now just pulley down until you see the same amount of boost in the intake manifold and advance the timing a little. I would bet a 3.1 would do it.

I by no means think the cheap ebay intercoolers are the best. but they do work if your on a budget, want a safe tune, with a little more power at the same boost level. It allows you to run a smaller pulley and advance the timing, more than you could without one.

I hope this doesn't start an argument between us. Because I think your car kicks ass, and you have done a great job with it.

I think it's all the same sh1t. My kit is home made and it works BEAUTIFULLY. I would sacrifice 2lbs of boost ANY day for low IAT's. Engine's like low IAT's. Plus you can tweak with the spark advance a little bit. EBAY IC's FTMFW!!!!!!

BTW: my FMIC works at 100% efficiency. Meaning if it's 100^ outside I see 100^ IAT's...and that's with tons of boost.....

Thats the best part +1

ok, I'm going to buy an intercooler off ebay ...what size did all you guys get
i know i want a minimum of 3" thick I was thinking 28x10x3 or something lke that

Buy this one it's already to go. You might have to tweak it. Of course you have to reclock your supercharger. It's basically what I built just cheaper and easier

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...014QQitemZ330209328792QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
how does your radiator get any air with that?

Most of the air for the radiator goes through the pony anyway, and there's a deflector on the bottom of the radiator support that helps to push air up, and over the radiator. Plus air passes right through it then through the ac condenser the finally to your radiator. All a/a intercoolers go there paxton procharger etc. I have been running mine for 2 years.

197693_66_full.jpg
 
are you still using the original tune from MPH? I am suprised you only dyno'd at 387 with 10psi and LT headers

Yes, I am still using the original tune. There is no (decent) place around me to get an all out dyno tune. When I took it to the dyno, the operator said my car was a "slug". He said it needed more timing and some tweaks, and it could easily be over 400hp. I dont doubt that it could be, but I think he just wanted 650 to tune my car :rolleyes:

I have also heard that he adds 8% load to the rollers to make it more "accurate".. I am not sure what that does though. The main reason I went to the dyno is to analyze my AFR- the numbers were just a bonus.

I have seen cars with mods exactly identical to mine, except BBK headers instead of kooks put down 410-415hp. I'd rather have a safer tune than a little more HP..
 
The load he adds gives you more real life numbers. A MustangDyno is a loaded dyno where a Dynojet isn't. The sell loaded Dynojets but most shops don't use them. A Dynojet will show around 30-40+rwhp more that a Mustangdyno.
 
Hey what do you all think about top to bottom intercoolers like this one? I read that they are supposed to have less pressure drop and cool more effectively. All of Prochargers intercoolers are of this design.
img-35-0-large.webp
 
Most of the air for the radiator goes through the pony anyway, and there's a deflector on the bottom of the radiator support that helps to push air up, and over the radiator. Plus air passes right through it then through the ac condenser the finally to your radiator. All a/a intercoolers go there paxton procharger etc. I have been running mine for 2 years.

197693_66_full.jpg

Jive how much did you have to cut the bumper support brace to clear the intercooler?