Yeah I figured that's the way I'd do it. It's just the photo in the link I provide seemed a lot cleaner and didn't know if what they were doing was for something different or what not as they ran the yellow to the power stud and just jumped te white from the 3 wire plug to the regulator post. Like this image here, is this what i could do when i install my 3G? Basically just jump the white wire from the plug to the regulator terminal, then run the yellow to the power terminal using a ring connector, and leave the green wire as is? Or is this accomplishing something different.
Ok think i answered my own question upon stumbling upon some factory 2G wiring diagrams. By using the above wiring it eliminates the need for the large strand of yellow charge sense wire to run from the fuseable link at the starter solenoid all the way to the plug? it simply picks up the charge sense from the adjacent charge terminal? Am i understanding this correctly? By doing the above wiring i could eliminate the extra charge (orange/black) cable as long as i jumped the yellow cable over to the charge terminal on the new 3G because it would be doing basically the same thing as the diagram below, only getting signal from the terminal itself vs. at the solenoid?
JRICHKERS diagram is how i did mine.. as far as keeping it "clutter free", i have just realized that a full wire and vacuum line tuck is the only way to do it and requires a lot of work to do.. if yur not planning on doing that, then just detail whats there, remove old wire loom and replace with new loom.. a partially/ half ass wire tuck job with lots of electrical tape looks worse than the wires that Ford put there at the factory IMHO. my engine compartment is super clean and i didnt do a tuck. i get compliments all the time because its clean..
make sure you have clean, bare metal grounds, and make sure your block is grounded too.. foxes have horrible grounds.. i have an underdrive pully on the crank and my gauge goes up and dwn w/ my revs. my head lights also get brighter with higher revs w/ e fan, stereo, blower on high, fogs, etc.. but always have 14.4V at idle
Yeah I am in the process of cleaning mine up as well. I am a super underhood neat freak. Unfortunately the previous owner of my car was not. And it looks like the engine exploded under the hood as there is oil all over everything. The new motor in there does not leak a drop, but the oil residue is still everywhere and a pain to remove. But as you said I always remove old and unuse wiring which was why I was so curious about removing the old charging wires as that is just one more set of wires under the hood being unused and cluttering it up
I did mine exactly like JR's diagram. But, I pulled an alternator off an Explorer (4.0 not 5.0) one day and noticed the wiring was like this
The white wire with a black tracer comes off the little 3 wire plug that's shared by a 2G and a 3G. I'm pretty sure you could do this, and I think I even had a thread going about this at some point. You could always try this method. Ford did it themselves, so why not try
The yellow sense wire does serve a purpose. It senses the voltage drop across the black/orange wires and increases the alternator's output to compensate for the loss in voltage. That compensates for connections and wiring that may not be 100% efficient.
Hissin50, what do you mean omit the wires if I maintain the sense wire? Which wires are you taking about? The black and orange voltage wires? Knowing me I'd probably mess something up. What are these different setups I see where people change the 3 wire plug and just run the black/white regulator wire from the 3 wire plug over to the connector for the regulator on the 3g and don't necessarily splice it off the orange/black bundle but simply jump the wire over on the 3G and run the yellow wire from the 3 wire plug to the power output side of the alternator? Is that a way of omitting the black/orange wires? Or is this some sort of aftermarket plug.
Yes. As JRichker noted, the sense wire is there for a reason, but people do circumvent its purposeful function by jumping it from the regulator directly to the charge stud on the alt. The contingency with doing this is that one has to ensure the charge cable is not resistive, as the accommodation that JR talks about (increased output to overcome losses) is no longer utilized.
If someone entirely removes the stock charge wires, the sense wire needs to be disconnected from those wires and left in place (or a new sense wire run in its place).