Why are the 73 302HP so low?

[Platonic Solid]

3 = 1973 Model Year
F = Dearborn Assembly Plant
05 = 2-Dr. Sportsroof, Mach 1
F = 302 2V Engine
187532 = Consecutive Unit No.
Body|63R = 2-Dr. Sportsroof, Mach 1
Color|6B = Lt. Goldenrod
Trim|AA = Black Vinyl
Trans|W = C4 Automatic
Axle|3 = 2.79:1
DSO|41 = Chicago (order district)

With a ratio of 2.79:1 and 302 Engine, you have an 8" Rear. The I.D. tag with numbers WDW-M or WDW-T (both designate 8"-2.79:1) may still be attached to one of the carrier-to-housing bolts. kevinstang.com has info. and pics of both rears.

Some have front Drum brakes, some have front Disk. Go figure

 

[soon2bgt]

At least it's a real Mach 1.

How much can the 8.8 take, will I have to upgrade?
And how hard is converting to disk in front?

sorry 8in rear

thanks Derek

 

[D.Hearne]

The 8" ( not 8.8) in your car will handle a lot of abuse. But keep your eyes peeled for a 9" for it. Converting to discs is easy. Best time to do this is when rebuilding the front suspension. Plan on doing both at the same time. It'll save you a lot of unnecessary work.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I know this has little to do with your original question, but if I were in your shoes (financially), I would take care of the rust and have the car repainted first.

Buy the full shop manual set available at any mustang parts supplier.

Have the existing 302 heads rebuilt for unleaded gas.

Update the front and rear suspension.

Enjoy driving the car while you save up to buy the engine of your dreams.

Good Luck.

 

[VictorII]

With respect to the other posters, the 302 can be optimized to run your car quite will. The 351s are great but you can work with the 302s as well. Yeah, the car it bigger bigger, but so what. Like was said, '68 or '69 302 heads and flat top pistons (if you want to pull it apart) will bring the compression up. Curved ignition, dual exhaust (I like Flowmasters) with crossover, a drop in rear gear ratio (Hemmings Motor News has advertisers for 8" Tractionlock units -- that's where I got mine, they can be installed in about two hours and are not really expensive; and they will put up with a lot of power), a performance C4 modulator, and you'll realize some seat of the pants increased acceleration gain. As far as rod bolts, if you have the engine rebuilt, ask the shop to shotpeen the rods and then have them drilled out to fit 3/8" ARP bolts and you have that same strength rod as the old Hipos. I'm about not spending as much as I can either. All of this is weekend projects, except for the engine. Trust me, this is what I have done and the car chirps the tires when shifting into fifth (I put a T5 in the car). Also a 600 vacuum secondary carb (I prefer Edelbrock - Holleys are too tempermental for me) on top of a Performer RPM will work nicely with exhaust and gears.

 

[Jonstantine]

edelbrocks are mechanical secondary carbs - and if you want one with a 302, edelbrock will probably recommend a 500 cfm one

i have a 73 mach one that i get when i graduate... some day
its got a 302 (originally a 351)... and the thing just isnt all that quick
not nearly as quick as my 66 289
so its going to get a big block... it will be really easy to get 400hp from a 460
and ive seen several when i was in my local junkyard looking for electric fans

 

[soon2bgt]

With respect to the other posters, the 302 can be optimized to run your car quite will. The 351s are great but you can work with the 302s as well. Yeah, the car it bigger bigger, but so what. Like was said, '68 or '69 302 heads and flat top pistons (if you want to pull it apart) will bring the compression up. Curved ignition, dual exhaust (I like Flowmasters) with crossover, a drop in rear gear ratio (Hemmings Motor News has advertisers for 8" Tractionlock units -- that's where I got mine, they can be installed in about two hours and are not really expensive; and they will put up with a lot of power), a performance C4 modulator, and you'll realize some seat of the pants increased acceleration gain. As far as rod bolts, if you have the engine rebuilt, ask the shop to shotpeen the rods and then have them drilled out to fit 3/8" ARP bolts and you have that same strength rod as the old Hipos. I'm about not spending as much as I can either. All of this is weekend projects, except for the engine. Trust me, this is what I have done and the car chirps the tires when shifting into fifth (I put a T5 in the car). Also a 600 vacuum secondary carb (I prefer Edelbrock - Holleys are too tempermental for me) on top of a Performer RPM will work nicely with exhaust and gears.

Can all this be done for around 2 grand?

Also where can I get the factory paint? Lt goldenrod?

Thanks Derek

 

[D.Hearne]

Like was said, '68 or '69 302 heads and flat top pistons (if you want to pull it apart) will bring the compression up. As far as rod bolts, if you have the engine rebuilt, ask the shop to shotpeen the rods and then have them drilled out to fit 3/8" ARP bolts and you have that same strength rod as the old Hipos.

soon2bgt-------- keep in mind here with VictorII's statements, that for one, the heads you now have will give the same comp ratio as 68-69 302 heads with flat top pistons.The chamber volumes are the same as you now have. Also depends on which flat top piston you choose, some have lower pin heights than others giving different deck clearances, which will make huge differences in comp ratios. Not all flat tops for 302's are the same. Also installing 3/8 bolts isn't always considered by some to be a good idea, removing that much metal from the rods and caps weakens them. You'd be better off in my opinion just replacing the bolts with 5/16ths ARP's. The 289 Hi-po and Boss 302 factory rods were different forgings than you now have. Installing 3/8 bolts will not make them equal in terms of strength.