why do you guys always stick 6's and autos and 4 spd's in your stang II's? you should do like i did drop in a kieth craft ( www.kiethcraftracing.com ) 427 aluminum shelby block in it with a 6 spd out of a viper (you can buy tha adapter plate for the bell housing on the net but i cant remember the site) and then go to heidts and get a IRS for the back end. you gott mod the rear subframe to fit it but it will work, and you WILL NEED to install some subframe connectors, since most of kieths engines produce some where in the neighborhood of 653 hp and 645 lb/ft of torque. any way i dont hang out on this forum much so i wont be checking replies since i sold my II (li 
ke an idiot)
why do you guys....
- Thread starter griffinzein
- Start date
Blue Thunder
15 Year Member
Considering that combination, I figured I'd comment, regardless of the distinct possibility of BS.
1) Even with the fairly recent increase in aftermarket support, the FE motors are a lot more expensive than a 429/460 motor. Although I do have a soft spot for the old FEs, I still believe the 460 to be a superior design.
2) With an engine that's making 600+ ft/lbs of torque in a car that would weigh about 2900 pounds, the last thing you need is 6 gears. Hell, a modified automatic with P R N D would be sufficient. Screw 1st and 2nd gear. Why bother with gear reduction when you can smoke the tires in direct drive at 100 mph?
3) Independent Viper rears are cool. For a Viper. But with a big block in a II, even an alum. one, the nose weight alone(they're bad even with a 302!) will ruin its handling, regardless of IRS or no. Unless you plan on moving the motor and firewall way back under the windshield and mounting the seats where the rearseats used to be, you're not going to have anywhere close to 50/50 bias. Not only that, but the Dana IRS found in the Vipers would end up thrashed by a motor making 200+ hp more than the factory Viper V10. A 9" rear is a million times(at least) stronger than that Dana unit. Also, single plastic tranverse springs suck. Come to think of it, almost anything plastic sucks.
Build yourself a nice 610" 460 motor with some big heads, a single-speed automatic, 9" with 3.00:1 L, and you're good to go street cruising. Forget all that fancy IRS/6-speed stuff, dude.
1) Even with the fairly recent increase in aftermarket support, the FE motors are a lot more expensive than a 429/460 motor. Although I do have a soft spot for the old FEs, I still believe the 460 to be a superior design.
2) With an engine that's making 600+ ft/lbs of torque in a car that would weigh about 2900 pounds, the last thing you need is 6 gears. Hell, a modified automatic with P R N D would be sufficient. Screw 1st and 2nd gear. Why bother with gear reduction when you can smoke the tires in direct drive at 100 mph?
3) Independent Viper rears are cool. For a Viper. But with a big block in a II, even an alum. one, the nose weight alone(they're bad even with a 302!) will ruin its handling, regardless of IRS or no. Unless you plan on moving the motor and firewall way back under the windshield and mounting the seats where the rearseats used to be, you're not going to have anywhere close to 50/50 bias. Not only that, but the Dana IRS found in the Vipers would end up thrashed by a motor making 200+ hp more than the factory Viper V10. A 9" rear is a million times(at least) stronger than that Dana unit. Also, single plastic tranverse springs suck. Come to think of it, almost anything plastic sucks.
Build yourself a nice 610" 460 motor with some big heads, a single-speed automatic, 9" with 3.00:1 L, and you're good to go street cruising. Forget all that fancy IRS/6-speed stuff, dude.
griffinzein said:why do you guys always stick 6's and autos and 4 spd's in your stang II's? you should do like i did drop in a kieth craft ( www.kiethcraftracing.com ) 427 aluminum shelby block in it with a 6 spd out of a viper (you can buy tha adapter plate for the bell housing on the net but i cant remember the site) and then go to heidts and get a IRS for the back end. you gott mod the rear subframe to fit it but it will work, and you WILL NEED to install some subframe connectors, since most of kieths engines produce some where in the neighborhood of 653 hp and 645 lb/ft of torque. any way i dont hang out on this forum much so i wont be checking replies since i sold my II (li
Lets see here,not everyone on here can afford to drop $80,000.00 into
a streetable mustang II, most of us lead a normal life, i actually like to drive my car more than once a year. need anymore answers..i got a question for you now..
why did you give up this insane
II to drive a 93 mustang with a 2.3litert-5?????mabye you should stay in the 2.3 liter forum..
welder4956
20+ Year Stangneter 
Come on guys! Don't you know it's dangerous to disturb someone who is sleepwalking? This guy is trolling!
Also, here is the correct link for Keith Craft Racing Engines:
http://www.keithcraft.com/
Nice goodies there, but a bit pricey for me.
Also, here is the correct link for Keith Craft Racing Engines:
http://www.keithcraft.com/
Nice goodies there, but a bit pricey for me.
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