Radiator is 1 years old,I took off the factory 4 cats and put 2 high flow cats in with an x pipe,and have a FMS racing water pump that is less then a year old!!
WTF??
WTF??why is my LX running so hot?
- Thread starter willys1
- Start date
JBeezy53
Member
I'd try a thermostat first if its getting to the point of overheating. Also is that a water pump for a serpentine belt system?
ahhhh,not sure,someone put it on for me!!water pump..I just put a 190stat in..How can I check the water pump?JBeezy53 said:
JBeezy53
Member
Well actually I think you would have to change the water pump pulley for an older style (v-belt system) pump to work with a serpentine system. Is water circulating through the engine when the car is hot? Also how hot is it getting? Overheating? What type of fan do you have?
To be honest I havent seen it with out the cap on yet,I'll check tomorrow!JBeezy53 said:
Stock fan,its getting almost to the line before "HOT",,only on the highway,around town driving its fine.I have 410's,so I usaully do between 2500 and 3000rpm's on the highway. The guy that put on the pump is capable of doing something like that!! (switching pullies)I will see how its circulating tomorrow morning.
jstang209
20+ Year Stangneter 
change your etc sensor. I bet it will help!! its the sensor on the tube going from the waterpump to the heater core
jstang209
20+ Year Stangneter
i think its ect now engine coolant temp or sumthing. After i bought a new radiator, waterpump, and t stat, i still would overheat. Then i replaced that last and the problem went away, wish i woulda changed it first lol
JBeezy53
Member
Willys, how big of a difference did that x pipe make when you put it on? I think I remember you being disappointed in the thumper/tmoss combo and everyone told you how big of a choker that stock h was. Did you make it to the track yet?
You know things work fine if it runs alright in town (that is correct, right?).
If it only runs hot on the highway (what numerical temps are you seeing actually?), I would make sure you have the air dam under the radiator.
The ECT is and would not be something I would bother with (atleast not for now) - you have no idea if it works or not - it has nothing to do with the cooling system performance, per se. It only provides info to the puter about what temps you are running at.
Good luck.
If it only runs hot on the highway (what numerical temps are you seeing actually?), I would make sure you have the air dam under the radiator.
The ECT is and would not be something I would bother with (atleast not for now) - you have no idea if it works or not - it has nothing to do with the cooling system performance, per se. It only provides info to the puter about what temps you are running at.
Good luck.
The little chin spoiler that sits under the radiator. It helps create a low pressure area behind the radiator, as well as kinda directing air up the front of the radiator. If a car runs hotter at speed than in town, that's the first thing I check.willys1 said:air dam?Hissin clue me in on this!!
Good luck bud.
taking a shower then Im going out to check.But what am I looking for? If its there? clogged?HISSIN50 said:
hangman1515
New Member
I bet you that you have an air pocket in the heads. You need to try and bleed the air out of the heads. I had the same problem. Air pockets will get you every time.
Yeah its there.I had the cap off and didnt see much in terms of circulation,but it was working.Youd think the FMS racing water pump would be powerful!HISSIN50 said:
How would you bleed the air from the heads?
To bleed the system, I jack up the driver side front (so the cap is the high point in the system) and remove the cap (ON A COLD MOTOR ONLY) and let it idle. Be careful of coolant that might splash out of the radiator neck!
I let it run like this for ~20 mins and see how it does. I still dont think it's an air issue since you do fine except on the highway.
The only other idea, which is really really remote, is that a lack of a spring in the lower radiator hose is allowing the hose to collapse. This is more of an issue on mod motors, but has happened occasionally to 5.0L's.
Good luck bud.
I let it run like this for ~20 mins and see how it does. I still dont think it's an air issue since you do fine except on the highway.
The only other idea, which is really really remote, is that a lack of a spring in the lower radiator hose is allowing the hose to collapse. This is more of an issue on mod motors, but has happened occasionally to 5.0L's.
Good luck bud.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Did it start overheating once the water pump was put in? Maybe at highways speeds (higher engine speed) the water pump moves so much coolant that the radiator is not getting enough time to remove the heat from the coolant? Just a thought.
Also, adding on to JT's method, make sure you have the heater on while you do this so you get coolant moving through the heater core. (with the rad cap off still)
Also, adding on to JT's method, make sure you have the heater on while you do this so you get coolant moving through the heater core. (with the rad cap off still)
deadlast
New Member
sorry to butt in but i have a similer problem, although mine jumps up (right next to hot) when im at idle, then drops to middle of normal when i start moving.
It doesnt over heat,it runs hot.Nah,I didnt have a stat in it for over a year.Put one in and its fine when its cold out,even on the highway.Yesterday was about 70 and thats when it did it.With the stock h on it ran real hot,I had an off rd briefly and it ran "alot" cooler but I put the stock back on.When I put pullies on it took for ever to cool down so I took the stat out.5-6 months ago I took the pullies off.Now with high flow cats and the new water pump youd think it would be pretty cool.Guess Im gonna have to buy an Aluminum radiater..Do they make a big difference?srothfuss said:
