Why you use hardened pushrods

OrLackThereof · Jan 7, 2004

This is why you use hardened pushrods when your valve guides are hardened.... The valveguide ate through the pushrod, and broke it off, and broke off the end of the guide too. Every other pushrod also has grindings on the pushrod. The car won't be up and running for another month or so.

Mavrick · Jan 7, 2004

linky no worky

86Cobra · Jan 7, 2004

You mean guide plates, not "hardened valve guides." Valve guides have nothing to do with pushrods.

goldbomb79 · Jan 8, 2004

yea that thread was a little confusing. i'm with you 86cobra on the guide plate. i'd say if your valve guides are tearing thru your pushrods or scratching them you've got alot more problems than hardened pushrods. lol but hey I type the wrong things alot of times when i'm in a hurry or mad.

FoxChasis · Jan 8, 2004

I hope this engine is being disassembled and cleaned thoroughly, at the least.

OrLackThereof · Jan 8, 2004

Yes, I meant guide plates. My fault.

And the motor will be cleaned as much as I can..but I have no money at all to fix it right now. It's gonna be a slow process getting it back on the road.

Hopefully none of the shavings got in any bearings, because every single pushrod was damaged like the above one, just that was the only one that actually broke.

FoxChasis · Jan 8, 2004

Do you really want to waste a crank, rod, piston, camshaft, or block because you hope none of the shavings and or broken pieces go into the lubrication system?? Don't do a half-a$$ed cleanup job. Treat this as if it's a new engine build...cleanliness is next to Godliness. Spend a little now or a lot more later.

OrLackThereof · Jan 8, 2004

So how do you suggest I go about cleaning it? Tear the entire block apart and clean/hot tank everything or something like that?

FoxChasis · Jan 8, 2004

Everything should be torn down and inspected for damage and corrected where necessary and thoroughly cleaned (tanked, or washed, or baked, etc.) before reassembly. New bearings throughout wouldn't hurt (cam bearings will have to be replaced anyway).

OrLackThereof · Jan 8, 2004

Alright thanks. I'll do that I think... And if I can start getting a decent incoming coming in, I might swap out the conn. rods and pistons for some better ones and probably bore it .030 over.

ashford · Jan 8, 2004

ok i see you dont want to tear it down. so your best bet is to take of oil filter, cut it open, make sure it didnt get clogged enough to trip the bypass spring. go buy 10 galons of diesel fuel and a really big drain pan. dump the stuf down the intake valley, down heads,and anywgere else you can think of and hope none of that crap didnt get where its not supposed to go.

OrLackThereof · Jan 8, 2004

Thanks man....I might give that a shot. We'll see...I wont be making any real moves for a few weeks now at least.

FoxChasis · Jan 9, 2004

If you can't afford to do it right, be damn sure you can afford to do it wrong.

OrLackThereof · Jan 10, 2004

Well if I do it wrong....all I can imagine really doing is trashing a bearing....in which case I'll shut it down immediately and have it towed before everything loses oil pressure. Speaking of, is there any way I can hook up some kind of a trouble light to the stock sender so it throws a big red light as soon as pressure drops below, say, 20 psi?

FoxChasis · Jan 11, 2004

And what happens if you score a main, rod, or cam journal or a cylinder wall?

OrLackThereof · Jan 11, 2004

Well I'll be a little bit screwed then. But I can't afford to throw cash at maybe situations. I'm in close to $1000 of credit card debt and won't know if I've got the job I'm gunning for until Monday or Tuesday... So yeah...I'm gonna flush it the best I can and hope for the best.

bgjohnson · Jan 11, 2004

that's all you really can do, pretty much all the damage that was gonna be done has been done. Know somthing that also might work would be get a drill and hook it up to the oil pump shaft and spin it for a long time. try to get everything though the oil filter before the engine actually runs. that would really make sure stuff is out of places it shouldn't be. but don't forget that metal shavings aren't that bad, but don't get me wrong they are bad but not like, sand in your engine, type of bad.

OrLackThereof · Jan 11, 2004

That's a really good tip actually....I'm gonna have to do that. Pick me up a cheapie oil filter and some cheap oil..run that all through then do a second oil change with the Castrol GTX and FL-1a filter.

89tang · Jan 11, 2004

OrLackThereof said:
Well I'll be a little bit screwed then. But I can't afford to throw cash at maybe situations. I'm in close to $1000 of credit card debt and won't know if I've got the job I'm gunning for until Monday or Tuesday... So yeah...I'm gonna flush it the best I can and hope for the best.

Maybe you should get rid of the car if you can't afford stuff when it breaks not trying to be a dick. More then likely there's more damage there then you think an a simple turn of the oil pump shaft an a cleaning isn't going to solve it. You might not notice it for a few months hell even a year but it'll come back an bite you on the ass. Believe me an the others do it right the first time. Leave it sit if you can until you have the cash.

1000 dollars in credit card debit i wish that's all i had

OrLackThereof · Jan 11, 2004

Yeah but I'm only 19. $1000 is a hell of a lot of debt when you're a full time college student and upon graduation I'll owe another...maybe $17,000 or so.

And I'm not buying another car so I can buy somebody elses' problems. I already put an entirely new motor in this car, bought new heads, roller rockers, and a cam for it..... It's got too much money in it to just let go for, say, $4000...when I paid $3000 for it and my bills for it have put it closer to $10,000.

I'll fix it as I cross it. When it becomes necessary, it'll get done. I'm still working on the tranny. Picking up a working AOD for $75 plus my B-303 cam. Since my tranny leaks out the tailshaft and the pan gasket and is on the verge of losing gears.

Why you use hardened pushrods

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