Will an explorer intake be enough?

[redterror302]

I've been looking to buy one recently, but don't want to be dissappointed with the performance. It will be going with ported e7's(bowl work, egr bump removed, smoothed, etc.) that had gt40 1.84"intake and 1.54"exhaust valve machined into them. They will have a 3 angle valve job on them as well. The rest of the combo is Comp cam XE270HR, 1.7 rockers, 70mm MAF, 65mm tb, 19lb injectors w/afpr, exhaust, etc etc.

Will the explorer intake flow enough for this combo? Will it need to be ported tow work well? Any other intakes recommended instead? I am on a bit of a budget, so that is why I am looking at the explorer intake. However, if its not a good match, then I just wasted my money anyway.

What do you guys think? Also, if I still have my egr stuff hooked up, can I run a non egr intake? Does that just make it unusable, or will I run into problems?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Chris6050]

I think the explorer intake would be good for your setup. From what I hear it's just like the cobra intake, except costs a lot less.

I'm not sure about the EGR stuff.

 

[jrichker]

Here's some Explorer intake manifold installation tips...

I got mine off a 96 Explorer with the 19# injectors and 65 MM throttle body for $250.

The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The stock air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

Use the TPS and IAB from your old throttle body. All the EGR passages were there and fit OK. Use you old fuel rails and regulator. You will probably need a new EGR spacer adapter and gaskets. Without the EGR spacer, there is no place to mount the throttle linkage support bracket.

I used the stock water lines on the Explorer manifold and they connected up to the EGR without any problems. I made a “U” out of ½” copper pipe and sweat soldered it together. Then I used it and some hose with clamps to bypass the leaky heater I have. You don't need heat very often here in Central Florida...

The vacuum lines you need are 1 small line for fuel pressure regulator, 1 small line for A/C,1 small line for EGR and another small line for the smog pump. One big line at the back goes to the vacuum tree for the power brake & A/C, the other big line goes out the front for the carbon canister. In a pinch, one of the small lines can connect to the spare port on the vacuum tree.

If you use the FelPro 1250 gasket set, they come with block off's for the EGR. I don't recommend blocking the EGR, since it shuts off at WOT, and there is probably no measurable HP gain to be had by blocking it. Blocking the EGR increases the tendency to ping and reduces fuel mileage.

 

[fivelitercoupe]

Thats some great information jrichker!!! But I think the explorer intake will be just fine also with your setup because it is very similar to the cobra intake and they'll flow really well with large numbers of horsepower.....

Brett

 

[Michael Yount]

Explorer/GT40/Cobra all flow about the same and share the same lower - although there are some differences through the years with regard to egr compatibility. It will be more than plenty with your set up.

 

[redterror302]

Sounds good. My plan was to try and just smooth the bend on the #1 and 5 cylinders to try to even out flow numbers a bit. Nothing too drastic though.

But for the egr......if I purchase an intake that has no internal egr, will I have to eliminate the egr, or will it just block coolant flow, rendering it useless anyway.

Will I have problems if it just blocks out the coolant flow without actually eliminating the entire egr system?

 

[Michael Yount]

The early 97 and later Explorer lower doesn't have the coolant passage tapped, but more importantly, it doesn't have the internal passages to allow the exhaust gas to flow. The coolant simply cools the spacer; the exhaust gas has to be present in the internal intake passages to be passed through the valve into the combustion charge. So, you can leave the valve 'sitting' behind the intake, and it will open and close as the computer instructs it, but no exhaust will actually pass into the engine.

The solution if you want/need functioning egr for your vehicle is to either get a 95-early 97 Explorer intake which does have the egr passeges, or just use the Cobra intake.

There is no need to clean up the 1/5 runners on your combo - the Explorer has the best balance of the 3 intakes (Exp, Cobra, GT40) and even with the dogleg will outflow your combo.

 

[Stang89LXCPE]

The Explorer will be great for your application. I have GT-40 irons that were mildly ported and have 1.94/1.60 valves. The lower was gasket matched to the heads, but that was it. It put down 290/330 to the tires. The intake has pleanty of potnetial. I opened up the #1 and #5 runners after I blew a HG. Like Micheal said, for your application, there is no need to open up the "doglegs". It woudn't be bad for it though if future mods will be done.


I have a newer non EGR intake on mine, but all of the smog equipment was still intake. It ran fine, however, I did not have to pass emissions, so it has since been removed. Hope this helps


Steve

 

[redterror302]

I only have a visual inspection for my emissions testing, so I don't need to worry about having the egr passages. I was just wondering whether or not I would have any problems since I may find a good deal on one without the egr.

Mike, say I would happen to get a cobra intake(pretty much whatever good deal I can find), should I grind down the doglegs on the 1 and 5 cylinders?

Thanks for the replies

 

[tmoss]

KNow what your doing before you just go grinding on the intake. Take some time, do your homework. I have a basic porting guide at:

www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

 

[redterror302]

I appreciate that tmoss. I have ported my stock lower with success, so I have a pretty good idea of what I am doing. I am still just wondering about whether or not I will run into problems getting an explorer intake that does not have the internal egr passages. Its slim pickin around here.

 

[tmoss]

I have a spare Explorer WITH the internal passages - they are hard to come by. Not lookin to sell it any other way than with the lower ported though.

 

[redterror302]

How much would you want for it?

 

[tmoss]

You would not need it ported for those heads, so ...........