Im doin a 347 stoker motor with a big comp cam(sorry i forgot the exact specs, and i know its imprtant). my question is how well will the computer hold up with this untill i can get a tweecer or computer tuner of some type. i have a JET performance chip in it right now, will that do fine for now, or should i be expecting some trouble when i get my motor in?
Will my computer like my cam?
- Thread starter nickm347
- Start date
define 'Big'...
Crower, CompCams, Crane & Lunati all recommended keeping duration @ .050" less than 230 when using an unmodified/unchipped stock computer. Biggest I've seen without any significant issues is the CompCams XE274HR with 224 int/232 exh @ .050".
You'll probably get a lot more accurate feedback if you put up the cam specs
Crower, CompCams, Crane & Lunati all recommended keeping duration @ .050" less than 230 when using an unmodified/unchipped stock computer. Biggest I've seen without any significant issues is the CompCams XE274HR with 224 int/232 exh @ .050".
You'll probably get a lot more accurate feedback if you put up the cam specs
fawcett
Member
i have an e cam in my 95 and the computer hates it. i was told to get a steeda #19 but i didnt, they are made for our cars. i really wish i went with something my car would like, but i didnt. now i have to get a pms or tweecer- something you might want to consider also. from what i have heard, chips dont do it, we need something more. i have never used or seen either tweecer nor pms (except in the magazines and on the internet) but as soon as i grow a sack, im gettin one of those so my car doesnt die everytime i come from wot to a stop, or sometimes just come to a stop.
good luck buddy
fawcett
good luck buddy
fawcett
My cam is smaller than that on both sides and my car would die EVERY SINGLE TIME when I came to a stop. Our computers seem to not like tight LSA's either. Comp's cams are usually a 114 (+4) design, so you probably won't have a problem there. It will just be an issue of excessive duration.SlowGT said:define 'Big'...
Crower, CompCams, Crane & Lunati all recommended keeping duration @ .050" less than 230 when using an unmodified/unchipped stock computer. Biggest I've seen without any significant issues is the CompCams XE274HR with 224 int/232 exh @ .050".
You'll probably get a lot more accurate feedback if you put up the cam specs
Joe
canadian94gt
New Member
I've got the xe274hr and it idles fine. I had to set the idle at about 900 before I got the tweecer. Now I can idle at 700rpm and it sounds really aggressive.
canadian94gt
New Member
I think tweecer is backordered. They go for around $600. You can pick up a used one off ebay or corral classifieds for between $400-$500. Make sure to get the RT model if you want to do datalogging plus it hooks up with just a USB cable. They really are worth the money. Since you can modify things as you add to your setup. It also gives you five different tunes that are at the twist of a knob. You can have a race tune, a city driving tune, a highway tune, etc.
HoofnIt
Founding Member
If you're worried about cam/computer compatibility and you're going to get a tune or EEC tuner later then don't let the computer affect which cam you choose. Choose the RIGHT cam for your combo and let the tune take care of the computer. I went with a Crower 15511 hoping I wouldn't need a tune but if you're going to spend all of that money on performance it only makes sense to have a custome tune to make it work up to it's potential. I got a SCT custom dyno tune w/17 pulls for $375. Yes, it's a one-time tune but I don't plan on making any major changes to my combo for a long time. My car has a noticable lopey idle but the driveability and performance are great after the tune.
greenlantern
Member
I must be the only one who lives in a state where emmissions, is an issue. I would love to switch out my cam for a more aggressive profile but I've got one problem. EMMISSIONS The emmissions here in Mo are a strickt. Aggressive cams are a sure way to flunk your test. Im sure sombody must make a cam with this in mind but where do you look? And if such a cam exist does the horsepower you gain justify the cam swap?
greenlantern said:
I live in the DFW area of Texas and we have to pass the dyno roller kind of emissions test yearly. We also have those state owned step side vans that put out those sniffer probes that park at highway on ramps and test cars that pass by for dirty emissions.
My cam is not mild by any means and I have no problem passing the emission inspection and have passed it for the past two years.
I am one example that has to challange that statement.
Ed Curtis, Jay Allen, Buddy Rawls
I don't think my rwhp & rwtq would be near what they are now with the stock cam so my answer to that statement would be .... YES the cam swap was worth the gain in horsepower.
Later
Grady
The cam can be aggressive as hell. My cam has ZERO overlap at 0.050", so it should pass. For big companies to get a CARB number for an OTS cam, they need to have zero overlap @ 0.006". Any of the aforementioned names could make you cam that runs cleaner than the stocker with tons more power.
Joe
Joe
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