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Winter mods have begun!! Need tuning and porting advice.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1slow95
  • Start date Start date Jan 24, 2009
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Stopsign32v

Member
May 18, 2008
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16
Gville, SC
Feb 10, 2009
#21
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #21
You should port match the intake to the heads...not the gaskets.

Also the wideband 02 should have a port for itself it does not replace anything.
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
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46
MA, USA
Feb 10, 2009
#22
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #22
Yea and why did u not match the coolant ports!!? (joke)
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
3
48
ohio
Feb 10, 2009
#23
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #23
Stopsign32v said:
You should port match the intake to the heads...not the gaskets.

Also the wideband 02 should have a port for itself it does not replace anything.
Click to expand...

Well the heads match the gaskets so I thought it would be good if the intake matched the gaskets as well.


Looks like it's going to rain the rest of the week. I'll drive it the next nice day we get here. I doubt I'll notice much of a difference on the street, especially since I haven't drove the car in over 2 months.
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
3
48
ohio
Feb 14, 2009
#24
  • Feb 14, 2009
  • #24
Pokageek said:
WELL?? We want to know if it made a difference... Drive it in the mud.
Click to expand...

I took it out for short trip last night. I only got on it for about 2 seconds(15-55mph) but I think it feels a little stronger. But I have been driving my jeep for the last 2 1/2 months, so it could just be in my head. I guess I won't know for sure til I put it on the dyno or the track.


Also, my MAP sensor still isn't here. I emailed the seller and he said it might have been returned and he hasn't received it yet.
Here's the tracking information as of today...
The U.S. Postal Service was electronically notified by the shipper on January 28, 2009 to expect your package for mailing. This does not indicate receipt by the USPS or the actual mailing date. Delivery status information will be provided if / when available. No further information is available for this item.
Click to expand...
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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46
MA, USA
Feb 24, 2009
#25
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #25
Have u been able to drive this anymore or get a better feel if it made a difference?
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
3
48
ohio
Feb 24, 2009
#26
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #26
Nope, and I probably won't drive it again til after the AEM is installed. Right now I have the exhaust off so I could weld in the WB O2 bung, and the tail lights are off because I'm having them blacked out.
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
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48
ohio
Mar 7, 2009
#27
  • Mar 7, 2009
  • #27
Well I swapped AEM's with a guy on coral.net, so now I have a 30-1401 plug and play SN-95 box. I got everything wired in and got it started and idling decent. It drives decent, but it's way to rich at 10-12 AFR all the time. I spent a good bit of time on it today trying to get the idle right, and I haven't touched any of the timing or fuel other than idle. I was doing some data logging, but my laptop crashed when I tried to save the log. I had the car back in the garage at that point so I just called it a day.

Right now on just the base AEM tune the idle is better than with the SCT, and driveability is almost better. So far I'm really happy with it.

What AFR should I be looking for at idle and cruising? Right now cold idle was around 10.0 and it gradually went up to just over 11.0 when it was fully warmed up. I tried cutting fuel, but the car would die before the AFR changed much. I also need to make sure my O2 is configured properly. The manual said to unplug the sensor and the UEGO controller would output 4v to the computer. I unplugged the O2 and it put out 0v...
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Mar 8, 2009
#28
  • Mar 8, 2009
  • #28
Low-5.0 said:
Well I swapped AEM's with a guy on coral.net, so now I have a 30-1401 plug and play SN-95 box. I got everything wired in and got it started and idling decent. It drives decent, but it's way to rich at 10-12 AFR all the time. I spent a good bit of time on it today trying to get the idle right, and I haven't touched any of the timing or fuel other than idle. I was doing some data logging, but my laptop crashed when I tried to save the log. I had the car back in the garage at that point so I just called it a day.

Right now on just the base AEM tune the idle is better than with the SCT, and driveability is almost better. So far I'm really happy with it.

What AFR should I be looking for at idle and cruising? Right now cold idle was around 10.0 and it gradually went up to just over 11.0 when it was fully warmed up. I tried cutting fuel, but the car would die before the AFR changed much. I also need to make sure my O2 is configured properly. The manual said to unplug the sensor and the UEGO controller would output 4v to the computer. I unplugged the O2 and it put out 0v...
Click to expand...

Well Mike

At very light load driving conditons such as idle and cruise I see
a range of 15.0 to 16.0

I'd say an average would be closer to 15 than 16

Grady
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
3
48
ohio
Mar 8, 2009
#29
  • Mar 8, 2009
  • #29
Yeah, that's about what I thought it should be. I got my O2 voltage set up right today....I think...I measured the output from the UEGO controller with a voltmeter and set the AEM software to match that. It was off by about .25 volts. That changed my AFR a little, but it was still showing 11.2 to 11.3 at idle.

What can I do to get it closer to 15? If I take out fuel it wants to die at around 11.5 AFR.

Also, I'm showing -5 to -6 psi at idle, which I think comes out to 10 - 12 in hg. Is that good or bad?

One last thing, I took some more fuel out of it at startup today. It actually started and idled without touching the gas pedal. It hasn't done that in years.
 
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