Thank you, Ill be back later on, I had more or less figured out the relay side of things just not the harness area of the car, yes I'm swapping the ford specific relay to a standard 5 prong, if I wasn't on such a tight budget I'd just buy a new relay but this is my option at current, thank you again for taking the time to find the right information for meI'll get you the correct wiring diagram later on, but this is pretty simple.
2 wires are your coil activation wires, and 2 wires are your main power, and then power out to the pump. The normally closed terminal remains not connected.
Are you using a standard 5-prong non-ford relay? If so, 85 and 86 are your coil. 30 is main power in from the fusible link, and 87 and 87A would be your output wires. 87 is normally open and thats the wire you would use to power the pump. 87a stays unconnected.
I'll check later what wire colors were used in 1990 to make sure i give you the right info. Check back later tonight
I have a pink and black and a red and black but my other 2 wires are tan and green and light green, would the pink and black and red and black correspond with the ones on this diagram?SO 1990 is different from the 1991 diagram above.
Red/Black - 12V key on - Pin 85
Tan/Light Green - ECU controlled ground - Pin 86
Orange/Light Blue - 12V key on from fusible link - Pin 30
Pink/Black - Feed out to pump - Pin 87
Pin 87A stays empty as this is normally closed. That would be pin 5 on the wiring diagram below which is open
I have no relay to start with right now thats why im wiring one in and then hoping my pump hasn't gone bad from sitting for as long as it has, the ford one is nowhere in the parts I got for the car to put it back together, it's a 90 lx with an 88 turbocoupe swap and im not sure how far back into the wiring they would have molested, the cabin wiring looks normal, but it runs off an LA3 turbocoupe ecm not the stock 2.3L ecm, I was told and basically hoping this would be a throw it together and finally have the chance to drive a foxbody but it's turning into a wiring nightmare, I have no experience in wiring and thats kinda where my downfall is, I'm going through and seeing what wires I can find today with 12v and 12v key on but I still have to figure out my other 2 wires as they don't match the 1990 wiring harness colours and I don't wanna cross things and burn up my ecmJust a question... why are you worried about the wires and where they go? Are you re-wiring the car? If it is just not trusting the relay, relays are wired the same, just plug it in (assuming you are not dealing with cut wires and trying to reconnect everything).
If changing the relay because fuel pump not working, don't forget to check the connectors in the driver kick panel. I have a 90 GT, built on last day of production in July 90 (I assume based on VIN number). I fought with intermittent fuel pump kicking out. I changed relay twice with no real improvement. Turned out to be a bad connection in one of the connectors behind the kick panel.
To test continuity what would I have to do? I have the ecu unplugged at current and I'm just gonna tough it out with testing my connector today and seeing whats what with power and what colours at the inertia switch and at the ecu hookup, im assuming I'll see the tan and light green wire at the connector for the ecuIf you are concerned about damaging the ECU, just unplug it.
You'll still have power on wire 238, but you'll lose it on wire 366 (red/black) with the ecu disconnected. But, you can just test continuity back to the ECU connectors at pin 57 and 22 to confirm which wire is your relay solenoid feed, and which is the switched ground back to the ECU.
I don't think there is much risk to damage the ECU, but you are correct to play it safe.
To test continuity what would I have to do? I have the ecu unplugged at current and I'm just gonna tough it out with testing my connector today and seeing whats what with power and what colours at the inertia switch and at the ecu hookup, im assuming I'll see the tan and light green wire at the connector for the ecu
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