Wiring Issues - New swap, Need Help

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SILENTCARL

New Member

Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 8, 2007

#1

• Aug 8, 2007

• #1

I have been trying to do this swap for the last three months. I had the new motor in the car in a day, but the rest of the time, has been a wiring nightmare.

We bought a break-out box for the EEC IV.

This is a '91 dis car with a swap to a distributer Merkur motor. LA3 , Large Vam.

Problems include no fuel pump, no injectors firing, electric fan comes on immediately when the IRCM is energized from ignition on.

I put a new IRCM in.

Please help! Any ideas will be very appreciated.

-Carl

 

sleeper_inc

New Member

May 3, 2007

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Regina Beach Sask. Canada

Aug 8, 2007

#2

• Aug 8, 2007

• #2

Did you make sure wired it right

 

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SILENTCARL

New Member

Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 8, 2007

#3

• Aug 8, 2007

• #3

I guess I deserved that...

I did search, and I did follow Stinger's directions to the tee. Then re-re-re-re-re-re-checked all of the pin-outs. Then I went and got all of the wiring diagrams for both the LA3 equipped TC, and my '91 LX. And went through that and double checked.

I wish I understood why it was doing this. I was just looking for any ideas you guys may have before I rip out the entire wiring harness and replace it with one out of a older dizzy car.


Stinger Intercooler piping with my Volvo front-mount and Ranger Radiator:

 

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sleeper_inc

New Member

May 3, 2007

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Regina Beach Sask. Canada

Aug 8, 2007

#4

• Aug 8, 2007

• #4

If thats how the engine is right now you know your battery's not connected right?

 

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SILENTCARL

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Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 8, 2007

#5

• Aug 8, 2007

• #5

HA.

Fan wouldn't work with batt. unhooked would it? Thanks...

Please be gentle. lol

 

Stinger

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Jul 7, 2001

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Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Aug 10, 2007

#6

• Aug 10, 2007

• #6

I would say you have some stray red/green striped wires in the harness that need to be soldered together. They are the signal return wires that go to all the sensors. When plugs are eliminated, the red/green wires are left open. Since they all run together in the stock harness, not doing so in the new "swap" harness will keep the injectors/sensors, etc. from being grounded.

 

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SILENTCARL

New Member

Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 10, 2007

#7

• Aug 10, 2007

• #7

I will check for that Stinger. I'm pretty certain all of the red w/ green wires are interconnected. After I check, I will update. Thanks.

 

Dr_EluSivE

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Apr 24, 2002

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Central Illinois

Aug 12, 2007

#8

• Aug 12, 2007

• #8

check all the sensors for ground, Specifically pin 46 on the computer. If the Signal return wire is floating, the car wont run right.

Dr.

 

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SILENTCARL

New Member

Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 13, 2007

#9

• Aug 13, 2007

• #9

I'm pulling the harness. Swapping to the dizzy harness.

 

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SILENTCARL

New Member

Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 20, 2007

#10

• Aug 20, 2007

• #10

Got it running. It sure is fun reading off of 3 wiring diagrams at once...

'86 svo harness converted to LA3 and placed in a '91 2.3 dis car.

It idles very rough. Almost like a super crazy cam in a v-8. It shakes the whole car. Don't understand that... Any things i should check on that? Any suggestions?

What do you guys think for timing, and base fuel pressure? Where should I be?

 

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SILENTCARL

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Feb 15, 2007

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Aug 21, 2007

#11

• Aug 21, 2007

• #11

It was a simple problem that I am a little too embarrassed to tell you guys about. lol.

But, It runs fine. We have been finishing up all of the final wiring, but I drove it for the first time last night. I love that damn car. My truck is so boring...

Still, I set base timing at 10* and fuel pressure at 38 psi at idle. What should I be at?